wylex mcb with built in rcd.

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would this be suitable for a 9.5kw electric shower?

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WYNSBS40Cslash1.html[/QUOTE]
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mmm , i have either the choice to opt for a smaller shower or a 50 amp mcb , i dont really want to use a 50 amp mcb , what size shower can be used with a 40 amp mcb? sorry , maths isn't my strong point.

10mm cable should do shouldn't it?
 
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mmm , i have either the choice to opt for a smaller shower or a 50 amp mcb , i dont really want to use a 50 amp mcb , what size shower can be used with a 40 amp mcb? sorry , maths isn't my strong point.

10mm cable should do shouldn't it?


6mm cable again would be very much on the cusp. It would make sense to add a larger cable when installing rather than having to re do it in a year or two when the shower blows up so yep 10mm cable would be best.

Just something to think about i've seen a few instances of people replacing their shower with larger more powerful models when the old one's break without thinking if the fuse needs to be changed.

Personally i'd go with the a decent RCBO/RCD+MCB to start.

As for max on a 40 amp breaker. 40x230=9200watts so 8.5kW should be ok
 
8.5 kw sounds good , so 10mm cable , the run is about 10 - 14 meters so around 12 :D , i have a 20 amp mbc on the rdc side of the CU which runs a single socket (apparently this used to go to the shed) so i could make the socket redundant and use this for the shower by replacing it with a 40 amp one and obviousley using 10mm cable? , then i need a pull cord switch to isolate the shower and i am away.

does this all sound about right?

now would it be better to let a sparky supply the materials (except the shower)? any sparkys need a few hours work? ive been quoted by the labc to come and test and certify it if i do it myself and i may as well pay a sparky to do it.
 
Check the RCD value make sure that it's not too low.

Firstly i'm not a electrician. Take from that what you will. However I spoke to several electricitans when installing my shower last year and they all gave me a different story as to what I could and should do.

In the end I installed a 45Amp breaker on the RCD side of my CU which also had the downstairs ring. The RCD is 60Amps the shower is 8.5kW if I remember correctly, the ring has a 30 Amp breaker. I used 10mm cable so if I wanted to upgrade to a 9.5kW shower at some later point I could. (laying cable of that size is a pain to work with).

It may very well be worth contacting an decent electrician if you can find one it shouldn't be a hard job, depending on the path your cable will take. (most said i'd have to replace my CU which was wrong)
 
the rcd is rated at 80 amps , ive got two 32amp and one 20amp mcb in there plus a 20 amp mcb which i plan to upgrade to 40 amps for the shower.
80 should be enough shouldn't it? or (silly question?) do i add up all the amps from each mcb and use that figure to estimate the size of rcd i need?
the cable is a straight run clipped to a wall plate under some rafters (no ceiling up yet), so easily accessible for the sparky although he may need to drill a hole through a wall to get the cable into the next room , or i could do this for him in preparation if needs be.
 
Check you master fuse from the electricity company.

I would find it hard to think that you could pull 80 amps on that RCD but I guess it is possible. You can match more MCB's than the RCD can take as long as your not pulling the full amount from each. As you can put more than 100 amps of MCB on a CU with only a 100Amp master switch.

Two 32's sound like two ring mains which can pull a fair amount of power you already know that your shower can pull ~40 Amps which doesn't leave a lot for the rest of the circuits (this isn't the case in my house where I currently don't have much else on the RCD)

I've always wondered what happens when people have a couple of showers in a house on at the same time? prehaps with an electric heater or two!
 
the house has never had central heating so i am assuming the 80 amp rcd and the two 32 amp ring mains may have been put in to accommodate electric heating. is the master fuse the big one that is sealed , just before the meter? we had a new feed from the pole outside to the meter a few weeks ago because we have a thatched roof and needed a continuous run to the meter. what should i be checking for?
 
Just the amps, probably be either 80 or 100, if it's 80 then personally i can't see an issue as if you are using 80 amps you'll be blowing the master.

I think really you're getting above my skill level you would really need to talk to someone who knows more about this than me. Hope i've been of some help.
 

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