Do I take it then, that the CH side was the only problem? cause you did say 'nothing fires up the boiler' which includes the HW side.
Y Plan not working
- Thread starter Pengwyn
- Start date
It seems the motorised valve is not moving so not getting over to HW select and the micro switch on the CH side is actually burnt out, physically burnt out.
Does this make sense ?
I didn't check whether the gas valve had 240v on it though.
I hope there isn't another issue.
When I found the micro switch burnt out I settled for that.
The actuator is a Danfoss HS3 mid position 3 way valve- is this the same as the Danfoss HSA3 ???
Does this make sense ?
I didn't check whether the gas valve had 240v on it though.
I hope there isn't another issue.
When I found the micro switch burnt out I settled for that.
The actuator is a Danfoss HS3 mid position 3 way valve- is this the same as the Danfoss HSA3 ???
Unlike most people I like a "know it all" !
Well done.SO am I right that by replacing the actuator/micro switch the system will fire up all toasty and warm. ?????
Can someone explain a sequence of operation from the below diagram.
I would like to fully understand the operational sequence.
thanks
Alan.
I would like to fully understand the operational sequence.
thanks
Alan.
I was trying to establish whether or not the boiler worked when HW only was selected. With motorised valve problems, it usually affects the CH side and not HW. I got the impression HW didn't work either and I can't see how a faulty micro switch in the actuator could stop it.
Mandate,
I suspect your right. I have gone through the wiring diagram and unless I am missing something the "HW only~" is irrelevant of the micro switches.
I will go down again tomorrow and check if there is a live to the boiler when HW is demanded.
If there is a live is it safe to assume it is the gas valve ? My father in law is on his downers atm and I am unwilling to go buying parts without being certain.
Bloody irritating though, the micro switch is defo burnt out AND the valve motor is not working, obviously he has just been running it with both the HW and CH on for a while and failed to inform me of this.
FYI I have found a great explanation of the Y plan wiring diagram.
http://www.octaveblue.co.uk/c_heating/index.htm
I suspect your right. I have gone through the wiring diagram and unless I am missing something the "HW only~" is irrelevant of the micro switches.
I will go down again tomorrow and check if there is a live to the boiler when HW is demanded.
If there is a live is it safe to assume it is the gas valve ? My father in law is on his downers atm and I am unwilling to go buying parts without being certain.
Bloody irritating though, the micro switch is defo burnt out AND the valve motor is not working, obviously he has just been running it with both the HW and CH on for a while and failed to inform me of this.
FYI I have found a great explanation of the Y plan wiring diagram.
http://www.octaveblue.co.uk/c_heating/index.htm
You need to establish that there is 230 volts and the circuit is complete.
If you use a non contact tester or electrical mains testing screwdriver, it may tell you it's live, but it won't tell you the voltage and it won't tell you if the circuit is complete. So use a multi meter across 'live' and 'neutral' and if that shows 230 volts, then gas valve is the problem.
If no voltage or reduced voltage then problem somewhere between programmer and gas valve.( faulty cylinder stat, wiring connection etc).
The 'Y' plan wiring is fairly simple, it's just the wire from the HW OFF terminal and the wire from the cylinder stat to the grey wire of the valve that you have to get to grips with.
Thanks alot guys.
I went down today to have another look at the boiler.
Set it up for HW only - put in the fuse - turned on the timer and the boiler fired up. YIPPEEEEEE.
I took the opportunity to do some electrical testing while I was there and all seems good.
The valve actuator is still dodgy but I will replace that tomorrow.
Next will be to replace some valves if they dont stopp leaking ..... a couple of the rad valves started leaking when I closed them off the balance the rads.
Once again thanks alot guys.
I went down today to have another look at the boiler.
Set it up for HW only - put in the fuse - turned on the timer and the boiler fired up. YIPPEEEEEE.
I took the opportunity to do some electrical testing while I was there and all seems good.
The valve actuator is still dodgy but I will replace that tomorrow.
Next will be to replace some valves if they dont stopp leaking ..... a couple of the rad valves started leaking when I closed them off the balance the rads.
Once again thanks alot guys.
Great! now you know there's nothing wrong with boiler.
I guess your radiator valves must be leaking at the spindle. I've had the same, leaks when closed but stops when open.
You can try tightening the gland nut a little, but it didn't work for me.
I undid the nut and wrapped PTFE tape round the spindle on one and I removed the gland packing material and re packed it using waxed hemp on another.
They are OK now, but I've since purchased 3mm gland packing material in readiness for the next one that decides to leak.
I guess your radiator valves must be leaking at the spindle. I've had the same, leaks when closed but stops when open.
You can try tightening the gland nut a little, but it didn't work for me.
I undid the nut and wrapped PTFE tape round the spindle on one and I removed the gland packing material and re packed it using waxed hemp on another.
They are OK now, but I've since purchased 3mm gland packing material in readiness for the next one that decides to leak.
I'm sure we have some suitable material in work for packing, if not I will use the PTFE wound and twisted.
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