Yale HSA 6400 Home Omit problem

[AssociatedAlarms]

The owner in this case wanted a wireless system so how would the other system which would have cost £2000 have behaved in the same inteference scenario you have painted?

FYI Visonic`s latest "kit" has agile frequency which changed on average 60 times a second. Making jamming virtually impossible. Also that special word TWO way reporting.
However;
Your quite good at this, picking figures out of the air. Not mentioning the system quoted for.
To use a Visonic with the above would cost in the region of £850 . Then add on a days labour ( not the £20 you seem to mention on your website).
And your in the region of £1.4k. (Remember that thing called VAT) Use a high end panel which would have some wired sounders and it goes up again. Use another totally wireless system and its higher again.
Its called market forces and costs, together with TWO way reporting. So yes you were cheaper, with cheap kit. Your overheads are minuscule . You have indicated you only have PL insurance not Efficacy. Another saving compared to another company.
You and your "fiends" bash on about one "System" are blinkered about other systems. Refuse to take on board anything else.

 

[JohnD]

The OP posted about a problem with his Yale 6400. Have you joined the thread to say anything that helps him? No.

So what are you doing on this thread? Nothing helpful. Just exercising your own verbosity

You don't like Yale alarms, so why not go away and find something you do like?

 

[bernardgreen]

The wireless in their local area consisted of their wireless router and their cordless phone...

So there were no other houses within 20 metres using wireless equipment. 20 metres being a rule of thumb assumed range of legal SRD wireless equipment using low gain aerials. If the receiver has a more efficient aerial it may respond to on channel SRD transmitters much further than 20 metres.

No mobile phone masts nearby ? No SRD telemetry systems, no wireless thermostats or any of the myriad of legal uses of that radio channel.

Then there are the imported illegal devices whose effective range may extend several miles to a receiver with the normal sensitivity of an SRD unit.

Once again I am NOT saying DIY wireless alarms do not work. I am making the point that there are reasons why the ability of a wireless alarm of any make to function may be curtailed by other equipment that was not in use while the alarm system was being installed and tested.

 

[AssociatedAlarms]

The OP posted about a problem with his Yale 6400. Have you joined the thread to say anything that helps him? No.

So what are you doing on this thread? Nothing helpful. Just exercising your own verbosity

You don't like Yale alarms, so why not go away and find something you do like?

And this assisted by..........................?

You do have a habit of lots of verbal and no assistance, the above again proving the point. Your experience again? As you always avoid the point when asked?
Carrying panels about to learn and test things?
Hardly a correct or documented approved way. Even Yale do not advocate this.
At least they have that much technical experience.

 

[JohnD]

The OP posted about a problem with his Yale 6400. Have you joined the thread to say anything that helps him? No.

It's true, you haven't.

 

[skyboy]

Many thanks skyboy but I don't think you understood my post.
Away armed IS when you use the red button. It doesn't seem to arm the PIR set to home omit and it should do.

thanks anyway.

Ah I think I might have sussed what has happened here...

Assuming that your omit device near the bathroom is your landing pir?? (yes?) then under normal circumstances you would not be able to test whether thet device has set off an alarm because you would not be able to get to it without triggering another of your sensors first ie the door sensors or the pir's downstairs set to burglar.

I think you have been fooled by the following:-

If you come into the home via your front door or whichever is your entry door it will start the panel countdown.
I am assuming now that what you have done then is to rush upstairs to see if the device on the landing will activate the alarm.
It won't not if the panel is counting down. It would activate the alarm immediately only if the home has been entered via a route that will not trigger an entry device first , ie they have come in via the patio door or a window or from upstairs.

The other possible reason you are claiming the pir does not work as a burglar device is if you have set the alarm and as it counts down you have gone upstairs to the landing and then after the alarm has set you have waved around in front of the sensor and been dismayed when the alarm did not trigger. This is simply because you will have put the landing sensor into sleep mode while you have been standing in front of it.
This would not happen if you simply set the alarm and leave by the door.

Of course I doubt the OP will ever read this as the thread has been hijacked again.

 

[skyboy]

It is not fit for your purpose.
Send it back and buy a Visonic powermax.

Oh here was his advice to the OPs problem..

 

[JohnD]

anything that helps him? No.

 

[AssociatedAlarms]

I think you have been fooled by the following:-

If you come into the home via your front door or whichever is your entry door it will start the panel countdown.
I am assuming now that what you have done then is to rush upstairs to see if the device on the landing will activate the alarm.
It won't not if the panel is counting down.

A fully graded system would.
See another shortfall now?

So the previous two comments are irrelevant.

Example, a door is kicked in. Entry timer starts, you run about and nothing happens.

OH DEAR

A pro system. door kicked in, violate another zone the system triggers and if connected dials or signals out.

Which one of you is going to deny the above?


As you have already explained your items will not activate in this situation.

 

[Europlex]

I think you have been fooled by the following:-

If you come into the home via your front door or whichever is your entry door it will start the panel countdown.
I am assuming now that what you have done then is to rush upstairs to see if the device on the landing will activate the alarm.
It won't not if the panel is counting down. It would activate the alarm immediately only if the home has been entered via a route that will not trigger an entry device first , ie they have come in via the patio door or a window or from upstairs.

Here is an excellent example of a reason NOT to have one of these ungraded DiY systems.

 

[Europlex]

anything that helps him? No.

...... other than showing bad design of a DiY system, no.

What else is needed?

 

[skyboy]

Hmmm Is that whay so many people lose their URN police response . . family come home through the front door - entry timer ticks down and little Freddy rushes into the lounge to switch on the telly and bingo - that's one of your three strikes gone.
A sensor has been activated and the alarm will also activate if the correct code is not put in. They now have 20 seconds well probably 16 seconds left to try er 10,000 combinations..lol
Burglars don't waste time coming through entry doors they use windows and patio doors in the vast majority of cases , they don't want to attract attention trying to smash down doors with five lever locks
In fact 84% of burglars avoid homes with alarms so they would be next door breaking into the home without an alarm.

 

[skyboy]

I think you have been fooled by the following:-

If you come into the home via your front door or whichever is your entry door it will start the panel countdown.
I am assuming now that what you have done then is to rush upstairs to see if the device on the landing will activate the alarm.
It won't not if the panel is counting down. It would activate the alarm immediately only if the home has been entered via a route that will not trigger an entry device first , ie they have come in via the patio door or a window or from upstairs.

Here is an excellent example of a reason NOT to have one of these ungraded DiY systems.

Why? the alarm will be sounding in less than 20 seconds... Had the intruder come in via upstairs or another room or window then the alarm would be instant.
I fitted an alarm once and the home was broken into the control panel had been attacked , there was damage to the case from being hit with a blunt object and a footprint where it had been stood on cracking the lcd screen. They could not defeat the alarm despite these efforts , the control panel has a tamper so any attempt to disable it by removing it from the wall would instantly set off the alarm anyway. Going back to the attacked control panel the alarm went off the neighbours heard it and the police came and took away the intruders...
System works absolutely fine to me . .

 

[bernardgreen]

They could not defeat the alarm despite these efforts , the control panel has a tamper so any attempt to disable it by removing it from the wall would instantly set off the alarm anyway.

If the first attack on the panel immediately destroys the panel's ability to transmit then it CANNOT tell the siren to sound.

 

[skyboy]

They could not defeat the alarm despite these efforts , the control panel has a tamper so any attempt to disable it by removing it from the wall would instantly set off the alarm anyway.

If the first attack on the panel immediately destroys the panel's ability to transmit then it CANNOT tell the siren to sound.

If Berny if..?? What is the speed of electricity again? microswitch at rear of panel sends an instantaneous tamper signal to the siren as well as activating its own internal sounder which is uncomfortably loud. Not only that but the majority of these systems are installed with the control panel in a protected zone , protected by an instant pir. The control unit at the entry door being only the remote keypad...
The panels themselves are remarkably robust even surviving being hit with blunt instruments (mole grips) and being stamped on without the case failing.

Getting soooooooooooooooooo bored now with all your neighsaying...