Yaris engine block drain bolt.

Discussion in 'Car Repairs / Maintenance' started by chainsaw_masochist, 10 Jan 2012.

  1. chainsaw_masochist

    chainsaw_masochist

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    Having just drained the coolant from a Toyota Yaris it has been necessary to remove the brass bolt from the engine block. Mr Haynes recommends that this is replaced with some ‘automotive sealing compound’ around the thread, presumably as manufactured by Loctite and Hermatite. But would it be plausible instead to use some PTFE to achieve the same result?

    Valid suggestion or avoid at all costs? Thanks for any comments. :confused:
     
  2. Burnerman

    Burnerman

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    Yes, no problem with that one - a few turns of ptfe and blue Hylomar and all will be well.
    Personally I don't bother in case drain plugs snap off....with me its bottom hose off, and a good flush out with clean water.
    Grand car, the wee Yaris.
    John :)
     
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  4. chainsaw_masochist

    chainsaw_masochist

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    Normally, I would do exactly that, John, but the circumstances here are unusual.

    We have had this vehicle in our family since 2004 – it’s a 2002 1.0Gls with just 34,000 miles and it has been an excellent little motor. The last time I changed the coolant I just opened the drain plug on the rad, so there is no need to remove the bottom hose. The old coolant was blue stuff and I replaced this at the time with more of the blue stuff, otherwise known as Comma Coldmaster. The problem is that recently I became aware that all of these motors take the red stuff, otherwise known as Toyota Long Life Pre-mixed or something similar and the two different types of coolant should not be mixed. This issue was covered in the January edition of Car Mechanics where they made clear the long-term complications that can manifest with using the wrong type of coolant. God knows how our motor ever got the incorrect appellation in originally – we bought the car from our local Toyota dealer with a full service history and there is no detail of any work on the cooling system being undertaken prior to our ownership. (I guess previously I did not worry too much about completely removing the old coolant as it looked very clean and was being replaced with a product of similar spec).

    So this time round, then, it has been essential to remove as much as is possible from the system, hence the removal of the plug from the block. About another 1.5 litres emerged from the block. It was a bit of a palaver to get out actually, as access is made complex by the exhaust manifold. I had to carefully position a compact ratchet with 17mm socket and tap a bit of old steel tube gently with a hammer.

    Anyway thanks a lot for your comment though I do not have any Hylomar. Would it be unwise then to use the PTFE without this? Getting to an auto-shop is not so easy here (Suffolk coast) as for the next couple of days I am on my own with the laid-up Yaris. Bµgger. :cry:
     
  5. Burnerman

    Burnerman

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    Often enough, brass block plugs actually have a slightly tapered thread so ptfe tape alone should be fine - its just a bit expensive if you see a drip afterwards......! Any sealant helps, so if there's no Hylomar, Hermetite red or any plumbing product will be fine.
    As for the antifreeze issue, you are correct - its not advisable to mix the blue glycol based ones with the OAT types due to cross reaction, but in practice I've never seen any problems and I'm sure most systems aren't flushed out as well as yours!
    Get the mixture correct at 50% (usually) and let all the air bleed out so the levels are stable and things are good for another 5 years.
    John :)
     
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