yet another kitchen

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I am about to install a new kitchen. Within the space of about 300mm, it has a single socket on the 30A whole house ring, a 30A cooker point and a redundant 15A immersion heater supply. The ring also has another socket in the bedroom immediately above.

I need sockets under the counter for a washing machine and a slot-in gas cooker. I also need a fused spur for a nearby combi-boiler on the next wall.

If I put a terminal block in the existing ring socket, I could extend the ring for the two under-counter sockets. I'd only need to chase a pair of cables 200mm below the counter and run the new section of ring on the surface behind the units.

This still leaves the new fused spur for the boiler on the next wall. I could put another terminal block in the bedroom socket and extend the ring down to the fused spur for the boiler on the next wall. Can I put this in the wall above the boiler?
 
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why not utilise the redundant immersion feed for the boiler?
or even better use the immersion supply as a radial for the cooker ignitor and the washing machine?

then put the boiler as a spur off the ring..

oh and PART P.. look it up in the wiki..
 
if the sockets will be inaccessible then they require isolation points in an accessible location. Oh yeah, and look up part P as coljack said.
 
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why not utilise the redundant immersion feed for the boiler?
or even better use the immersion supply as a radial for the cooker ignitor and the washing machine?
I wondered about putting 2 sockets off the old immersion heater's 15A fused radial. Sure, an igniter and clock won't draw much, so it wouldn't be a problem with blowing fuses. Should I chase a 1.5mm cable down to the gas cooker socket then run another cable on the surface from that socket round to the washing machine socket?

1John - the under-counter sockets will be semi-accessible through holes in the back of cupboards. I had thought of putting a 20A isolation switch in the old immersion heater switch box above the counter. With ColJack's 2nd suggestion, that would isolate both the under-counter sockets.

Part P seems to imply I must notify my LABC.

Thanks guys.
 
Should I chase a 1.5mm cable down to the gas cooker socket then run another cable on the surface from that socket round to the washing machine socket?.

The existing circuit is run in 2.5mm² cable and is protected by a 16A CPD (may be 20A). The extension to the circuit must also be in 2.5mm.
 
Should I chase a 1.5mm cable down to the gas cooker socket then run another cable on the surface from that socket round to the washing machine socket?.

The existing circuit is run in 2.5mm² cable and is protected by a 16A CPD (may be 20A). The extension to the circuit must also be in 2.5mm.
I'll get the vernier calliper on to it, but the existing cable from the 15A fuse looks thinner than the 2.5mm² cable I was looking at in Wickes yesterday. It wouldn't hurt to use bigger cable for any extension.

I assume 1.5mm and 2.5mm are typically just short for 1.5mm² and 2.5mm².
 
In this game you never assume anything. As i was always told it makes an "ass" of "you" and "me"and i don't eat hay.
 
I'll get the vernier calliper on to it, but the existing cable from the 15A fuse looks thinner than the 2.5mm² cable I was looking at in Wickes yesterday. It wouldn't hurt to use bigger cable for any extension.
For the installation method you'll be using for that cable, what will it's Iz be? And what's the maximum length your likely Ze will allow?
 
No one seems to have mentioned RCD protection yet, for the sockets and concealed cables.....
 
I'll get the vernier calliper on to it, but the existing cable from the 15A fuse looks thinner than the 2.5mm² cable I was looking at in Wickes yesterday. It wouldn't hurt to use bigger cable for any extension.
For the installation method you'll be using for that cable, what will it's Iz be? And what's the maximum length your likely Ze will allow?
For a twin-core 1.5mm² sheathed cable running under galvanised capping in the plaster, the Iz looks like it will be somewhere around the 15A present fuse rating. The existing cable run is about 15m, mostly through floor joists except for the 2 drops. The extension will be about 4m. The likely load on the radial will be about 11A - mostly resistive heating in the washing machine.
 

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