Remote Switch For Fused Outlet

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Trying to get some information on whether it's acceptable to switch a socket in the same way as a light. For instance, you have an un-switched socket on the ring under the kitchen counter and want to put a fused switch above the counter for it.

The ideal way would be to extend the ring up to above the counter and have a switched spur down to the socket. But if that's not practical, could you run a live up to the fused switch, and a switched live back down to the socket with common neutral only behind the socket?

Only reason I can see it being an issue is that any fault current caused by a nail would be required to go down earth as opposed to shorted to neutral.

Cheers,
Fubar
 
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I don't see why it's significantly easier to run only one T&E to the FCU rather than two.
 
I don't see why it's significantly easier to run only one T&E to the FCU rather than two.
Indeed, but he may then need a JB in the vicinity of the socket below the counter, otherwise it might get pretty crowded in the box behind that socket. What he has proposed sounds 'orrible, and I certainly wouldn't do it, even though I'm struggling to think of a way in which is would be non-compliant.

Kind Regards, John
 
It's not ideal. One of the main reasons for these switches is to be able to isolate the line & neutral if the appliance is faulty causing the RCD to trip.
 
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Indeed, but he may then need a JB in the vicinity of the socket below the counter, otherwise it might get pretty crowded in the box behind that socket.
So he'll have 2 x T&E joined in choc-block (say) in the back box.

Out of that block he's proposing to take a set of 4 conductors - N & E to the socket, L & E up to the FCU, with (one assumes) SL in the same T&E coming back down to the socket.

Would doing it "properly" add too much more in there?
 
The reason it'll be such a pain is that the back box that is above the counter was a standard single spur socket from the socket under the counter. As such, I only have one piece of T&E going from below the counter to above. I can fit the wagos in the box to make the connections, but don't fancy ripping into the wall to run another set of conductors.

Fubar
 
Indeed, but he may then need a JB in the vicinity of the socket below the counter, otherwise it might get pretty crowded in the box behind that socket.
So he'll have 2 x T&E joined in choc-block (say) in the back box.
Indeed, which is what could cause the crowding in a fairly shallow back box.
Out of that block he's proposing to take a set of 4 conductors - N & E to the socket, L & E up to the FCU, with (one assumes) SL in the same T&E coming back down to the socket. Would doing it "properly" add too much more in there?
You misunderstood me. I agreed with you that it ought to be done properly (and that what was being proposed was 'orrible). My comments about crowding, and hence the potential need for a JB, were general - and apply almost as much to the 'orrible approach as the proper one.

Kind Regards, John
 
So does nobody make SP switched FCUs?
I haven't personally seen one offered for sale for very many years (if ever - I presume that probably existed at some point in history). Even the cheapest of tat FCUs seem to be DP these days. Others may have different experiences!

Kind Regards, John
 
Should probably clarify "don't fancy ripping into the wall" as "don't fancy ripping into the wall if I don't have to"
 
Should probably clarify "don't fancy ripping into the wall" as "don't fancy ripping into the wall if I don't have to"
As BAS implied, I don't see why running two cables up to the switch or FCU would involve any more ripping into walls than would be required for just one cable. Am I missing something?

Kind Regards, John
 
There is already one 2.5mm cable running up to what is/was a single spur socket. Was hoping to use that as my switch wire for the lower socket without having to crack into the wall and install another cable.

Fubar
 
So, you want to use the existing cable as a switch pair - similar wiring to a light switch?
It's not conventional, and might confuse the next guy, but I dont see anything essentially wrong with it.
 
Bang on Taylor. As people have commented, the lack of DP isolation does mean E/N faults will trip the RCD and there is no way to fully isolate it without getting under the cabinet.
 
You can use DP FCU, but will only be connecting earth to earth terminal and the supply live (in) and load live (out) on the plate, ID the cores both as live/line
Not conventional but don't see why it cannot be done that way.
 

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