Zinserr gardz

[MarcoM]

Hello,

If I am lining a wall and applied zinserr gardz, do I still need to seize the wall with paper paste?

Thanks

 

[sxturbo]

No

 

[Wayners]

No +1

Also consider ready mix paste as a lower water content and better stick and all round better product but I guess it depends on paper and job but I use it all the time regardless

 

[opps]

I assume that you mean that you applied the Gardz over the plaster and then want to hang lining paper...

The walls will not need sizing. That said, I prefer to roll both the walls and lining paper with paste at the same time (especially during the summer). That way I am assured that there is little risk of dry spots.

I only use premix paste when advised by the wallpaper manufacturer.

 

[MarcoM]

Many thanks.

What would you suggest I do to prevent flashing or coloure difference when painting over filled gaps?
the odd gap was there so I filled witrh red devil and painted but in some places you can see the difference.
Do I need to add some sort of stain blocker to the gap or dilute filled with paint prior to applying?

Thanks

 

[opps]

I normally git those kind of areas with Zinsser Bin (because it dries within minutes). I guess you could use the Guardz though. Either way, If you have used a dark emulsion you will need at least two coats of emulsion.

 

[MarcoM]

I normally git those kind of areas with Zinsser Bin (because it dries within minutes). I guess you could use the Guardz though. Either way, If you have used a dark emulsion you will need at least two coats of emulsion.

Would zinsser123 also work on lining paper?

 

[sxturbo]

Need to be careful, because sometimes you can see the spot paint under the top coat as they have different textures, or the way they were applied was different.

Probably would have been best priming the walls with a contract white emulsion 2 or 3 times to fill the porosity of the different surfaces and then painting the top coat.

Oops is a pro though (I believe) and will be better placed to advise

 

[opps]

Need to be careful, because sometimes you can see the spot paint under the top coat as they have different textures, or the way they were applied was different.

Probably would have been best priming the walls with a contract white emulsion 2 or 3 times to fill the porosity of the different surfaces and then painting the top coat.

Oops is a pro though (I believe) and will be better placed to advise

You are correct about the risk of different paints affecting the texture of the lining paper. In this case the OP has already used emulsion over the lining paper which means that the fibres in the paper are pretty much "uniform" and fairly flat. I would never use BIN or oil based undercoat as a spot primer on bare lining paper because the fibres would stick up and in the absence of sanding, would be obvious after the emulsion was applied.

Ideally one would apply the BIN (/etc) with a rad roller to maintain a constant texture. When it comes down to it, the filled areas will be flatter than the paper, so you either do a semi dry roll with the mini roller or stipple it with a brush when applying the emulsion.

 

[sxturbo]

.

 

[opps]

Would zinsser123 also work on lining paper?

I would imagine that it would be suitable. I have not used it personally.

 

[MarcoM]

You are correct about the risk of different paints affecting the texture of the lining paper. In this case the OP has already used emulsion over the lining paper which means that the fibres in the paper are pretty much "uniform" and fairly flat. I would never use BIN or oil based undercoat as a spot primer on bare lining paper because the fibres would stick up and in the absence of sanding, would be obvious after the emulsion was applied.

Ideally one would apply the BIN (/etc) with a rad roller to maintain a constant texture. When it comes down to it, the filled areas will be flatter than the paper, so you either do a semi dry roll with the mini roller or stipple it with a brush when applying the emulsion.

So on bare filled lining paper the best option is to paint diluted emulsion to cover the filler rather than applying any zinserr at all?

 

[opps]

So on bare filled lining paper the best option is to paint diluted emulsion to cover the filler rather than applying any zinserr at all?

We seem to be at cross purposes... I suggested using Zinsser where you can see the filler grinning through the emulsion that you have already applied.

If you are using a powder based filler on fresh lining paper then, yes, slightly dilute the emulsion before applying the Zinsser. If using something like RedDevil OneTime or Toupret RedLite, there is no need to dilute the emulsion. Personally, I prefer to do any filling after the first coat of full fat paint.

 

[MarcoM]

We seem to be at cross purposes... I suggested using Zinsser where you can see the filler grinning through the emulsion that you have already applied.

If you are using a powder based filler on fresh lining paper then, yes, slightly dilute the emulsion before applying the Zinsser. If using something like RedDevil OneTime or Toupret RedLite, there is no need to dilute the emulsion. Personally, I prefer to do any filling after the first coat of full fat paint.

Apologies for causing confusion.

What I meant was if I apply lining paper and then fill, what precaution do I need to take so that the filler does not show the first emulsion coat.

 

[opps]

Apologies for causing confusion.

What I meant was if I apply lining paper and then fill, what precaution do I need to take so that the filler does not show the first emulsion coat.

I would not do any filling until the first coat of emulsion went on. Part of the reason being that with minor gaps, the emulsion will fill the gap, negating the need for filler.

As a pro, I try to make sure that I have no gaps but sometimes you have to live with them, eg when you cut through lining paper when running around corners and so on. Those gaps are, at a guess, a third of the thickness of a fingernail. If I can see them after the first coat of full (fat) emulsion I will run filler over and then sand back with 100 to 180 grit paper (depending on the situation). The fillers I use do not need a dilute coat of emulsion. If I can see evidence of them after the second coat of emulsion, I hit them with Zinsser BIN and then expect to hit them with another two coats of full fat emulsion.

If I know that the emulsion is going to be a pig, ie show a difference in sheen where additional coats have been applied. I roll a coat of emulsion, apply filler, sand back, followed by a mini roller of emulsion over the join, followed by Zinsser BIN, followed by another coat of emulsion just over the join. I then roll the whole wall with what I hope to be the final coat of emulsion.

Hope that makes sense.