Zoned mixed system heating over 2 floors & 16mm pipe reducers

[Ruggers]

Yeah, like everyone else they're struggling with staffing issues at present I think, but you could always call and ask for a call back from one of the tech team.

As for actuators, I believe they're all the same but just have slightly different descriptions. They operate on the basis of a small heater coil heating up a sealed capsule. The resultant expansion drives the valve open.

Why would your radiator water be dirty on a new system? A plate heat exchanger will significantly reduce efficiency.

It wouldn't be dirty on a new system, but my thoughts are, in 10 years, your radiators have started to corrode a lot and the water is always black that runs through the system. The UFH side is completely plastic and S/S mainifold so so in theory always be clean. if both halfs of the system are joined on flow and return, that could create sludge in my UFH system that can never be replaced once screeded where as upstairs is more accessible.

Heatmiser actuators say thermal and others say electrothermal, but both have an electric cable going to them. Some have 10 minute opening times, others are 4 mins. I think i read faster opening is more efficient and doesn't wear as much on the valve seat.

 

[muggles]

Your radiators will only have started to corrode a lot if the system water hasn't been properly treated to prevent it. A properly maintained system shouldn't suffer from corrosion.

 

[Ruggers]

What is properly maintained? Are they supposed to be drained every few years and clean water flushed?
I installed all new copper pipe system, radiators and boiler to my house when i bought it and added inhibitor, but the water in the system is black if i bleed the radiators a decade later. I don't imagine it ever being clear for years on end but not sure how else to prevent it and when it becomes a problem.

 

[muggles]

No, they should be left sealed. When first installed, they should be thoroughly flushed with a cleanser designed for new systems to remove all residue of flux and contaminants picked up during the manufacturing processes. Ideally a microbubble deaerator should be fitted to remove every last remnant of air. Systems should then be dosed with the correct amount of inhibitor (most systems are under-dosed) and the system water should be periodically checked to ensure it is still correctly dosed. Incorrectly dosed UFH systems will also suffer from contamination, it's not limited to radiators.

 

[Ruggers]

I've never heard of a deaerator, looks like a good bit of kit in the video i just seen, I'd use a magnaclean pro or Fernox Omega on the return side.

The corrosion on an UFH system must be very minimal, it's all plastic except the manifold & pump and most manifolds seem to be stainless steel.

The first two years running my system it remained clear but from then on the water is black. After 6 years i drained it, flushed with clean water and refilled it which was recommended but was a lot of work filling draining and bleeding. I might leave the plate exchanger from the UFH side as it's extra cost, it was just a suggestion. The UFH manifolds all seem to have an auto air vent fitted, are these any good for the highest towel rail or are they problematic?

 

[Ruggers]

Well an update, Salus misinformed me and you can connect to their hub using the wired thermostats not just the RF ones that they told me 2 days prior.

 

[Ruggers]

You don't need adaptors you can order 15mm connectors for the manifolds.

Underfloor Heating UFH Pipe Manifolds Eurocone Connector 12 15 16 20 1.6 2 mm | eBay

Just having a read back over this and trying to understand these eurocones.
Are they required to connect any size pipe to an UFH manifold as an essential part, or only required if the pipe to be used is a different size to the manifold size? ie: 16mm pipe into a 15mm manifold or visa versa.

Most UFH manifolds I've seen are for 16mm pipe except polyplumb which takes 15mm pipe.
If I have a 16mm manifold and a 16mm pipe are eurocones required still?

Standard radiator lock shields take a 15mm pipe and if i want to insert 16mm pipe direct from the manifold, I want to know the best way to do so to make it fit the lock shield valve?