Potterton Puma diverter valve and spares

steve222 · 26 Apr 2006

Hi all

Although this is my first post, with the benefit of previous threads and similar symptoms, I believe I have correctly diagnosed my intermittent CH problems to be the diverter valve in my Potterton Puma 100.

(thanks to all those who have unknowingly helped me get this far- oh and it's not dripping tap syndrome!)

My questions are:

Is it best to replace just the wax capsule or should I endure the extra work to replace the whole thing?

Any tips on fitting from the guru's?

Where is the best place to get spares online (best:good delivery, good price, good range )- obviously without contravening the advertising rules!

All replies gratefully appreciated.

Steve

ACOperson · 26 Apr 2006

And you're sure its not an underfloor leak? Probably not I suppose...

As for spares, I use a local merchants or if I want something quickly I use HRPC. I've found some web based spares shops but they're nothing special IMO.

Can't remember price off the top of my head, but its probably around the £150 mark inc vat for the whole diverter (?).

As for fitting, i'm no guru but I've fitted about 5 diverters and as many capsules themselves. The diverter is a bitch and you need a decent set of spanners to make a good go at it - a small handled wide-jaw spanner is especially useful here. The 2 most recent ones I fitted took me about 90 mins from entering property to leaving but that was with good access to boiler, the previous were just over 2 hours with slightly worse access to boiler.

My advice if you don't want to pay someone to do it: buy the whole diverter, remove the capsule & nut and just fit that. Then if that does not work, fit the whole new diverter and new capsule.

Best of luck

Agile · 27 Apr 2006

Or if the regular merchants are closed he just comes round here, where they are usually cheaper anyway.

( Sorry could not resist that ! )

If you are doing it yourself I would agree that its better to replace the whole valve. Its not only the wax bit which can fail.

To avoid call backs many engineers will want to replace the whole valve anyway.

You can get wet just changing the wax bit !!!

Tony

steve222 · 27 Apr 2006

Thanks folks - £150 seems like a lot of money - but then what do I know!
Is it worth shopping around for these sort of things or are prices the same all over?

Steve

Soggy_weetabix · 27 Apr 2006

If your wax capsule is at fault, then why replace the whole divertor vlv?

I have done 27 (and counting) wax capsules due to a heating fault over 3 years and never had a call back yet.

Just my opinion, as I know Ill get slated by everyone execpt corgiman.

The back connection on those divertors can be tricky.

David

Abcot sell them individually. (and i await the wrath for using them)

steve222 · 27 Apr 2006

Thanks- but not sure what to do now!

Does Abcot have a web site as a can't find on Google?

Steve

Soggy_weetabix · 27 Apr 2006

www.abcotuk.co.uk

David

steve222 · 27 Apr 2006

Thanks David, I'm assuming the DV.140 is the one to go for? (the only one they are showing online)

If so, seems like it's worth a go if 1) it might work and 2) it saves me from having to do battle with the dreaded back nut that others have referred to!

Steve

Agile · 27 Apr 2006

The back nut is no problem if you fold the lower lip of the back plate down to allow full access to the dreaded nut!

Its surprising how few people think of that.

Possibly the Potty people are not allowed to do that but you can on your own boiler!

Tony

corgiman · 27 Apr 2006

I agree with agile (as per) and you should change the whole thing.

Like soggy I used to just change the wax capsule untill recently when the bauggers started leaking on me!!!

Agile · 27 Apr 2006

Its not leaking that is the problem ( usually ).

The waxstat is just the actuating element.

The rest of the moving parts can seize and prevent the unit from operating.

In the commercial world a one visit fix is required in order to be efficient.

Replacing the diverter requires the boiler to be drained and that and sorting any consequential problems is a large part of the job. Its little extra for a guaranteed repair to replace the entire diverter valve. Returning or starting again because its seized makes it an uneconomic job quite apart from the effect on your reputation.

Tony

ollski · 27 Apr 2006

Where are you steve?, probably could find a new dv in the shed I could be tempted to part with.

Ed Sirett · 28 Apr 2006

In my experience doing battle with Potty Pumas.

You can check that the main valve is not stuck when you have removed the old wax capsule actuator. If the valve is moving neatly back when you stop pushing then I'd reckon that the very difficult job of exchanging the whole diveter valve can be avoided.

The old wax actuator can be checked for lack of movement just to confirm, aswell.

I have not used them yet but IIRC there is a firm up north somewhere which will sell the capsules alone for about 20.

The dripping on the DHW thing is really significant on these boiler when the capsule is nearing the end of its life. Fixing a dripping hot tap can keep the heating going long enough to mail order the spare.

Softus · 28 Apr 2006

The back nut is no problem if you fold the lower lip of the back plate down to allow full access to the dreaded nut!

The back nut is no problem anyway. Just get the correct socket, place over the nut, and turn until it comes off. That way you don't have to bend the boiler casing like some car exhaust centre monkey

Its surprising how few people think of that.

Sadly, it's surprising how many people do think of it.

...you can on your own boiler!

...if you want to make it look like an amateur has been working on it.

Baxi-Remeha · 29 Apr 2006

err yeah im a potty engineer (that sounds sooooo wrong) and i bend the bracket, but id love to see you guys change the whole valve in under 45 min without doing it......

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Potterton Puma diverter valve and spares

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