Cooker connection plate - 3 x 10mm cables?

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Taking advantage of the IEE reg that allows two appliances to be wired to a single cooker switch (both within 2m of the switch), I now have my 10mm cable neatly buried beneath the plaster...

=======|Switch|======|outlet|=====|outlet|

...but now can't locate a cooker outlet plate with large enough terminals to accept 3 x 10mm cable (conduit in, conduit out + cooker lead). Anyone know of one :?:

Thanks!
 
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Well, surely a suitably rated junction box would work? 60A ones are easy to find and as 10mm cable is rated at 53A it is suitable at least for the current.

Alternatively you could run a second cable from the switched side of the cooker switch.

I would be interested to hear what any sparks make of either of these suggestions.
 
The fewer the joints the better, as any plumber will testify!

Best to run a second cable from switched side of cooker switch, if space and capacity allow.
 
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I have a question, you intend to run TWO appliances from this circuit, so the obvious is WHY ARE BOTH BEING FED IN 10mm2 cable?

If the supply cable is 10mm2, to run two appliances from it that both require 10mm2 cable is stupid as you will simply overload the main feed cable.

HOWEVER, if the rating of each item is lower than this so both can run from this circuit, why are you feeding them both in 10mm2???

Why not run them in cable suitable for their load, but of a size that solves your dilemna?

What are these items you intend to run, and what are their respective full potential loads?
 
FWL_Engineer said:
HOWEVER, if the rating of each item is lower than this so both can run from this circuit, why are you feeding them both in 10mm2???

If his diagram is of a radial circuit feeding, in sequence, a cooker control unit and then two outlets, wouldn't he have to have 10mm throughout, or the second half of the circuit would be too thin to be protected by the 50A breaker (or whatever it is) in the CU?
 
ban-all-sheds said:
FWL_Engineer said:
HOWEVER, if the rating of each item is lower than this so both can run from this circuit, why are you feeding them both in 10mm2???

If his diagram is of a radial circuit feeding, in sequence, a cooker control unit and then two outlets, wouldn't he have to have 10mm throughout, or the second half of the circuit would be too thin to be protected by the 50A breaker (or whatever it is) in the CU?

That is why I have asked him for more information on the appliances. Any sockets linked to this circuit should be fed via a spur (switch fused) to give them adequate protection.

We are not miracle workers, we need all the information available to properly answer some of these questions, and it does concern me that some poeple are asking questions in a way that gives the impression they have no idea what they are doing..so shouldn't be recieving advice on how to do something they don't understand..if you see my point :)
 
Oh indeed - still, at least if he could have physically wired up all the accessories with 10mm, it would have been safe....
 
ban-all-sheds said:
Oh indeed - still, at least if he could have physically wired up all the accessories with 10mm, it would have been safe....

Well he would not have overloaded the cable in theory at least, but it may not have been safe...
 
Don't see how you can overload the 10mm2 cable when the mcb governs total load drawn.
 
securespark said:
Don't see how you can overload the 10mm2 cable when the mcb governs total load drawn.

That does all depend on the protective device, although I would agree that the chances of this being bigger than 63A are very small.

Before anyone asks, 63A is the largest size MCB you will find will fit a domestic type CU, and 63A will not seriously overload 10mm
 
Thanks for comments.

I guess I could run a second cable from the switch, but suspect I may have the same problem fiding a cooker switch that accepts 3 x 10mm cables too.

Reason for running the lot in 10mm, incidentally, is that the regs require it as per FWL_Engineer's reply, unless the thinner wire is fed through a FCU. At least, that's my understanding.

I guess I'll have to take a look for a 60A junction box, if suitable connection units really don't exist... unless anyone does know of one...
 
Plot1 said:
Thanks for comments.

I guess I could run a second cable from the switch, but suspect I may have the same problem fiding a cooker switch that accepts 3 x 10mm cables too.
Probably.

Reason for running the lot in 10mm, incidentally, is that the regs require it as per FWL_Engineer's reply, unless the thinner wire is fed through a FCU. At least, that's my understanding.
I think to be in accordance, the cable running to the FCU would also have to be 10mm. You can get 10mm into the supply terminals of an FCU, but that doesn't solve the problem of still having multiple 10s in the cooker unit.

I guess I'll have to take a look for a 60A junction box, if suitable connection units really don't exist... unless anyone does know of one...
You can get 60A JBs - e.g. this:

AAJB60.jpg


(I would say "other products are available", if I knew of any...)

As it's rated at 60A, it probably will take 10mm cable. You can check with TLC, but I doubt if it will take 2 x 10mm in the same side.

You have a very similar problem to me - I want to have a bathroom fan controlled by the shower switch, so I've got to find a way to have multiple 10mm cores joined together so that I can take the permanent and switched lives to FCUs to fuse down to 1mm for the fan.
My plan is to have a large metal adaptable box with 10mm (or maybe FWLs suggestion of 6mm SWA) entering through glands. Once inside the box, it will be safe to dispense with the outer sheath, which means I can take the 10mm cores into Henley blocks (which will accept multiple cables that size), and then off to the shower switch and the FCUs.

Obviously my box will be in the loft - yours would need to be on the kitchen wall. Not so good.
 

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