installing a new built-in oven/cooker

[BonfireMan]

Have patience. I think these are simple Qs and As. I'll provide as much info as I can.

I need to know how to install my new electric oven. The kitchen is fitted and is just waiting for the oven. There's an original cable down the wall to a switched cooker point (with socket). Then a cable runs down and along (behind tiles and cupboards) to where the oven will be. It's just a cable with no connection point at the end so far. The cable is twin & earth (not sure of the size right now but it's larger than lighting cable - braided/multiple copper strands for live and neutral).

I have a cooker point to go onto the wall behind the oven unit. It's just three cables to screw in, right? How hard can that be?! It's from there I get confused. It should just be some more cable screwed into the cooker point and into the oven, yeah? But having read the manual and some other threads on the forum I'm getting concerned that things have not been done correctly.

The manual: http://products.gorenje.si/fts/getDigitDoc.asp?sifra=663031&jezik=en&tipVsebine=1

The oven is a Gorenje BD8860E. The manual says it comes with a power cable (page 14, paragraph 3) but I haven't got one! It recommends a H05RN-f cable in the diagram (page 14) and it shows different schematics for different voltages and thicknesses of cable used.

Q: Where do I get this type of cable? I only need a metre or so.

Q: Where do I screw it in? (The diagram has five different terminal points.)

The technical data (page 19) shows the wattage for the ovens and grills. I am concerned that the original cable to the cooker switch, and new cable to the cooker point, are not big enough for the cooker. (Which would be a real pain as the kitchen is finished and the cables could not be easily replaced!)

Q: What size fuse and twin & earth should be there for this oven?

Q: Is twin and earth from the cooker switch to the cooker point the normal way to do it? In which case why do I need different cable to connect the oven (maybe I don't?)? After all, they're both behind the oven!

Phew! Thanks. I can provide photos if needed but I'm at work right now.

 

[jj4091]

INSTALLATION
CAUTION:
THIS APPLIANCE MUST BE INSTALLED BY A
PROFESSIONAL ELECTRICIAN, AND IN ACCORDANCE
WITH THE MANUFACTURER’S INSTRUCTIONS
BEFORE CARRYING OUT ANY ADJUSTMENT OR REPAIR
ON THE APPLIANCE, MAKE CERTAIN IT IS
DISCONNECTED FROM THE ELECTRICAL POWER SUPPLY
Statutory regulations, technical standards, directives
The appliance must be installed in conformity with current statutory regulations and in
accordance with applicable safety standards.

 

[sparkyspike]

Ask the supplier to send you the cable, or go to a wholesalers and buy one (show them the manual to get the right one). To wire up, use the top diagram. It's for single phase 3-core flex. You should have been provided with metal links which link terminals 1,2 and 3 together for use in a domestic kitchen. Likewise, there should already be a link between the neutral terminals. You can use lengths of flex if they are missing.

 

[BonfireMan]

jj4091: I understand your point this out to me but I'm pretty sure it says something like this in the manual for my toaster too.

Given the right cable and advice I'm pretty sure I can connect it up safely.

sparkyspike: I've been in touch with the supplier but they don't actually supply a cable. (I think I'm being fibbed to, they're actually just a representative of gorenje in the UK for servicing.)

Metal links? No. Not got any of those either!

Are you saying I need to connect points 1, 2 and 3 together and to the Live? Then 4 and 5 together and to the Neutral? Using what flex? Not bit of Twin & Earth, surely?

 

[sparkyspike]

Go and buy the flex (2.5mm H055R-F) to connect your cooker outlet to your cooker. Then use short pieces to link the terminals together. You may find that the terminals have already been linked with U-shaped brass or copper links and you just hadn't noticed. If they are definitely missing, then use the flex as it is the correct size.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Fixed appliance... Notifiable.

Fixed wiring accessory in the kitchen... Notifiable.

 

[BonfireMan]

sparkyspike: OK, I'm with you. I'll look tonight and see if they are already connected. Would the cable be available at a B&Q/Wickes/Screwfix (I can't find any online) or would I need somewhere more specialised?

ban-all-sheds: Righto. My understanding is I can do this myself as long as I notify and have it checked*. Yes? (btw: I love my shed. It keeps the junk out of my house.)

*Not sure how to do that either though.

Just to clarify: if I'm in any doubt I'll have a pro check it and do it - but so far I don't think it's beyond me.

What about my other Qs? Any ideas?

 

[rebuke]

You have to notify your LABC and pay their fee *before* doing the work - they will then arrange whatever inspection/testing they deem necessary. For wiring in a cooker, it will almost certainly be cheaper for you to get someone able to self certify their work in to do it, since most LABCs charge at least £100 for notification...

 

[ban-all-sheds]

sparkyspike: OK, I'm with you. I'll look tonight and see if they are already connected. Would the cable be available at a B&Q/Wickes/Screwfix (I can't find any online) or would I need somewhere more specialised?

Click.

ban-all-sheds: Righto. My understanding is I can do this myself as long as I notify

As long as you notify in advance... http://www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part-p

and have it checked*. Yes?

Checking should be done by, or organised and paid for by, the council - that's why you pay them the notification fee. Some will try to get you to pay - you'll find the info you need to resist them in the Wiki.

(btw: I love my shed. It keeps the junk out of my house.)

I mean this:

not this:

 

[sparkyspike]

I don't think Screwfix do it in metre lengths. Go to somewhere like City Electrical, Edmunsons, Kew, Senate... They'll sell you flex by the metre. Have you had any other work done which has involved a BCO?

 

[BonfireMan]

rebuke & ban-all-sheds: before? ah...

ban-all-sheds: Of course I googled it - I just didn't see anywhere to buy any! A more appropriate link might have been: http://letmegooglethatforyou.com/?q=h05rn-f

How can an oven fit be checked *after* the event (even if I notify *before*) without undoing all the work (ie taking the oven out again)?

Did you have those images already done or was that some quick work to knock them up?

sparkyspike: I'll look up some of those places in a mo. Ta.

Hmm, I don't really like to answer your question.

Been reading the wiki and I've had work done by electricians which should have been notified but they never said anything or provided paperwork. Quite a while ago though. Maybe before part P came in. I'd have to check - but I probably haven't got the receipts anymore.

I'm sure everything is done properly. But what could be done to get it checked now?

 

[rebuke]

Basically, when you tell the LABC what you are going to do, they will tell you when they want to inspect - in your case they would probably want to inspect before you secured the oven in place...

 

[sparkyspike]

I've had work done by electricians which should have been notified but they never said anything or provided paperwork. Quite a while ago though.

I was talking about just your new kitchen. If you're fitting a new kitchen and the only electrical work is a replacement cooker, then you'll just have to notify that work on its own. It's ridiculous really. If your cooker was a free-standing stove, you wouldn't have to notify at all. If you were to have an electrician connect the cooker for you, it wouldn't cost you the notification fee, just what the electrician charges you for the connection, as he/she will notify for you. You will then get the work done properly, you won't have to go and find the right cable and a certificate will arrive in the post saying what work has been done and by whom.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

A more appropriate link might have been: http://letmegooglethatforyou.com/?q=h05rn-f

That was the one I posted....

 

[BonfireMan]

sparkyspike: Yes, it does seem a bit silly, doesn't it. I may find a local guy who can fit and notify then. It might be worth it just to save the time of having to find the cable. How much should this cost approx?

As it happens it's not the only work that's happened in the kitchen. A whole new ring main was put in at one point! But this is separate, of course.

The oven does have some copper/brass u-shaped thingy-me-bobs. One is inserted to connect points 4 and 5 (both neutral as you advised). There are two spare. There does not seem to be any slots to insert them into to get points 1, 2 and three connected together though. As 4 and 5 are pre-done by the manufacturer maybe 1, 2 and 3 don't need to be connected at all. Any thoughts?

ban-all-sheds: duh. my bad.