Wiring up 6 x 240v 50w spotlights

[Adam09]

Hi guys, just a quick question about wiring up 6 x double insulated GU10 240 50w spotlights.

I am replacing a single surface mounted light, which is also double insulated.

There are 3neutrals, and 1switched live. The only earth at the ceiling point is the earth from the 1.5mm T+E used for the switch wire, which goes to a chock block and goes off somewhere else, the neutral is cut back. This earth is connected with multiple earths back at the light switch also.

I have made a quick diagram up on how I was looking to wire up the new spotlights. The only reason for the 1 daisy chain from the top right is because the junction box only has 4 terminals, otherwise I would have done each from the junction box as done on the left.

Junction box's used for easiest route for cable through the joist;, and they will be able to come out through the center spotlight cut out holes. Otherwise I would of looking into daisy chaining all 6 together.

Is this acceptable? Or is there any other ways you guys would recommend?

Cheers
-Adam

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• Adam09
• 31 Jul 2009
• 3

 

[wingcoax]

First question, where are you working? bathroom/kitchen? If so this work is notifiable to your local building control department. otherwise your idea looks ok, as long as you can,as you say get access to the j/b's

 

[ericmark]

It seems OK. I would take earths to JB and light in case you change them in future I normally fold it over and fit sleeve.

Also remember
422.3.1 Except for equipment for which an appropriate product standard specifies requirements, a luminaire shall be kept at an adequate distance from Combustible materials. Unless otherwise recommended by the manufacturer, a small spotlight or projector shall be installed at the following minimum distance from combustible materials:
(i) Rating up to 100 W 0.5 m
(ii) Over 100 and up to 300 W 0.8 m
(iii) Over 300 and up to 500 W 1.0 m
NOTE: A luminaire with a lamp that could eject flammable materials in case of failure should be constructed with a safety protective shield for the lamp in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

50W get very hot. I find 11W Cold Cathode are ample but they are longer so I am careful to select a fitting which will take extra length so once tungsten bulbs are discontinued the fitting will not need changing.

 

[Adam09]

Hi, thanks for the replies!

The only small junction box's I was able to find where 20amp, but only accepts 2 x 1.5mm T+E, and with my idea I would need the junction box's to accept 4 x 1.5mm T+E.

Looks like I have to put the 3 neutrals and 1 switched live into the junction box and daisy chain all 6 spotlights together from the 1.5mm out of the junction box.

Is this ok?

Yes, this is in a kitchen - and i'm aware that this is notifiable as any electrical work in kitchens & bathrooms.

Cheers
-Adam

 

[sparkybird]

if you use good quality jb's, such as ashely, then you can easily get 4 conductors in the small 20A ones, you have to be neat though!

Oh and make sure that all the jb are accessible through the downlight holes in case you need to get to them in the future. This may mean extending the cables (using crimps and heatshrink sleeving).

SB

 

[ban-all-sheds]

 

[ColJack]

on that note BAS ( and because I can't find the other post we were discussing JB's in.. )

 

[Adam09]

Thanks for the replies!

I wired the 6downlights in parallel, daisy chained to each other.

3 neutrals + 1 switched live into the 20A junction box, 2 x 1.5mm T+E out of the junction box, one to the centre spotlight, and the others daisy chained.

The cable from the 2 daisy chained lights on the right has to pass straight through 2 floor joists to feed the other 3 spotlights on the left. Is this ok, or is there any sort of safe zones in these areas?

How soon does this work need to be notified? Would it be worth waiting until I have redone the lights in the bathroom then notify them together?

Cheers
-Adam

 

[Adam_151]

Thanks for the replies!
The cable from the 2 daisy chained lights on the right has to pass straight through 2 floor joists to feed the other 3 spotlights on the left. Is this ok, or is there any sort of safe zones in these areas?

Needs to be at least 50mm below the floor above and 50mm above the ceiling, you should be drilling on the centre line anyway to keep stress in the joist to a minimum, there are also rules on how far along the span you can drill, perhaps someone else will post the pretty picture if they can find it?

How soon does this work need to be notified? Would it be worth waiting until I have redone the lights in the bathroom then notify them together?

At least 48 hours *before* you start work, however there is nothing to stop the job being left open for the other lights unless you get a BCO who doesn't want to play ball!

 

[Adam09]

Hi guys got another question regarding wiring up spotlights.

In my bedroom, I’m looking to build a pelmet around the ceiling and have some rows of spotlights individually switched.

What I currently have:
Single Switch
1 x COM
1x L1

Ceiling light
1 x switched live
2 x neutrals
1 x earth

How would I go about wiring up the 3 rows of spotlights so that each row is individually switched?

Would I put the current wires at the ceiling into a junction box, wire another 2 junction box’s from this, apart from the switched live, and take a row of spotlights from each junction box? Then just change the switch to a 3gang, loop the other two switch’s commons from the first, and wire a new switched live from each L1 on the new switch’s to the remaining 2 junction box’s for the live supply of the lights?

Just in case that sounds confusing, I’ve done a quick diagram to explain what I meant...

What I currently have

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• Adam09
• 19 Aug 2009
• 1

what I want to do

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• Adam09
• 19 Aug 2009
• 2

The current wiring is in singles, and I plan to use 1.5mm T+E for the new wiring.

I will take the earth’s to each light, but not connect them up as the spots will be double insulated. Not yet certain on how many spotlights per row/switch, but it will not exceed the dimmer switch rating.

All junction boxs will be accessable (in the loft)

Also, how would I go about wiring a mains rope light into the lighting circuit, so I can switch it using the spare switch on the 4gang switch plate? This is currently fused in the plug top at 3a. My lighting circuit MCB is 6A. Could this be done by adding a fused spur after the last junction box fused at 3a, with another switched live to the spare switch?

Cheers
-Adam

 

[electronicsuk]

Needs to be at least 50mm below the floor above and 50mm above the ceiling, you should be drilling on the centre line anyway to keep stress in the joist to a minimum, there are also rules on how far along the span you can drill, perhaps someone else will post the pretty picture if they can find it?

How about a pretty PDF?

 

[Steve]

Instead of installing 600 watts of lighting and then dimming it, why not install four lights, but use CFLs or LEDs.




ERICMARK, what do you mean by cold cathode lamps? Please give me a link to the lamps you are using.

 

[Adam09]

I was going to use spotlights as they will be able installed flush spaced out all around the pelmet, and I would be able to turn on different sides of the pelmet with different switch’s and dim them.

Is there any sort of LED spotlights? Any links would be apricheated!

Steve - Could you confirm if my diagram of wiring up rows of spotlights is correct? Also, if you could let me know how to wire up the rope light

Cheers
Adam

 

[Adam09]

Just another thought, if I want to install the spotlights into MDF, should i look for F marked spotlights?

Cheers
-Adam