Couple of queries .. electrics problems

[rjb123]

Hi All,

First post on this forum hope I can find some good advice.

First of all the bathroom mirror unit we had with fitted halogens stopped working - took the thing apart and the switch has completely burnt out inside

The rating on the switch says 2A 125V AC

There's 2 12v 20W halogens powered by it which comes to 4A , am I correct in thinking that this is the reason it melted?

Second issue - we had a strange smell coming from the dishwasher and found this today , which is the switch for the dishwasher.

What could be the reason for this happening? The fuse is quite burnt at the top - I thought these should blow rather than melt , or could it be down to a bad connection? Will replace this unit tomorrow ... don't have a spare one around now unfortunately.

Thanks in advance for any advice

 

[properleckie]

hi both appear to be due to loose connections,Did you have a limp wristed sparkie do the wiring?

 

[rjb123]

The first one was wired like that internally - only opened as it was faulty , would the switch rating not have something to do with it?

The dishwasher connection has been there for years and not a problem before (since 1992!)

 

[flameport]

40W at 12V is 3.3A, so more than the switch rating.
However the switch should be in the mains supply side, otherwise the transformer in the fitting remains powered all the time, and would have no load on the output when the lights were off.
At 230V, the current would only be around 0.17A

However this is wrong either way.
A 2A switch is no good for 3.3A @ 12V
A 125V switch is no good for 230V.

 

[rjb123]

Thanks - I thought the switch was on the 12V side as the wires come out of the transformer into the switch - although I don't know much about these things

I'll get in touch with the manufacturer/seller , see if they can give me a free replacement for this part, it is less than a year old after all

 

[electronicsuk]

However this is wrong either way.
A 2A switch is no good for 3.3A @ 12V
A 125V switch is no good for 230V.

Although the current rating is provided @ 125v, that doesn't necessarily mean the switch isn't rated to 230v.

 

[Atilla]

However this is wrong either way.
A 2A switch is no good for 3.3A @ 12V
A 125V switch is no good for 230V.

Although the current rating is provided @ 125v, that doesn't necessarily mean the switch isn't rated to 230v.

its a switch not a device therefore - surely it means 2A or 125V max ?

 

[rjb123]

Lets see what the retailer says ... the manufacturer is in Italy so I don't think I'll have much luck contacting them for a replacement.

 

[rjb123]

Got a replacement for the bathroom unit sorted out quicky, arrived on Friday which was sooner than expected!

Bought a new switch for the dishwasher unit, but unfortunately the cable behind is burnt so won't be able to use that.

Would it be safe just to cut the cable a bit and join up some new cable with 13a connection / terminal block and then fit the switch, or should I get a sparks in to replace the wiring?

 

[1john]

30 A connector prob required if on a ring final circuit. it will all depend on how far the cable is burnt as to if you can join on a new bit. is it on the supply cable or the load cable?

 

[rjb123]

30 A connector prob required if on a ring final circuit. it will all depend on how far the cable is burnt as to if you can join on a new bit. is it on the supply cable or the load cable?

Really have no idea, all I know is that it's one of the live cables - not sure how to identify supply or load cable so probably better to get a sparks in!

 

[NewOrder]

30 A connector prob required if on a ring final circuit. it will all depend on how far the cable is burnt as to if you can join on a new bit. is it on the supply cable or the load cable?

Really have no idea, all I know is that it's one of the live cables - not sure how to identify supply or load cable so probably better to get a sparks in!

Yes 13 amp connetion units don't just melt, so it must have been wired in wrong to cause a losse connection etc. You could just cut back and put in a new 13 amp unit but the fact you're asking this means you have doubts. If you have any money at all I would get the sparks in. Sometimes trying to save a few bob is not worth it long term.

PS I am just a very casual DIY and I my limits are exactly the situation you have found yourself in. I know how to cut it back etc but I don't know how to do it legally hence I would get the pros in.

 

[Lectrician]

If you cannot get any slack on the cable to shorten it, you can lengthen the single core with either a blue crimp with a ratchet crimper, or a terminal block.

 

[Steve]

I know how to cut it back etc but I don't know how to do it legally hence I would get the pros in.

Its hard to comprehend how you could possibly break any laws by cutting back a cable wrongly.

 

[RF Lighting]

Perhaps by legally he meant in accordance with electrical regulations and good working practices?