New celing

[clayton]

Part of my back room celing has come down due to a water leak, what is the best option to rapair this, pull the whole lot down or just the palsterboard over the old lathes.

The room is about 15x13ft what sort of cost would i be looking @ thanks.

 

[paul78]

ive repaired these before and the customer hadnt had leak fixed correctly, ending up doing job twice. make sure leak is 100% fixed to avoid extra costs.
easiest way is to cut the ceiling square so easier to piece the board in. if the rest of the ceiling is ok (no need to rip down) just then tape and reskim the whole ceiling for a better result. get a recommended plasterer though or at least make sure sure youve seen their work, get 3 quotes! hard to give prices without actually seeing the job, but if reskim whole ceiling ballpark figure is 150, hope this helps
ps. let us know how it goes

 

[Richard C]

Taking the lot down is an extremely messy job & the lathe looks almost too good to overboard or start cutting holes in. Is that the extent of the damage or are there other problems with the ceiling? Looking at the photo, the lathe looks to be in pretty good condition, is it still pretty well secured & flat? I’ve never repaired/plastered over lathe before & those that have are probably getting thin on the ground but I would be tempted to jump in & have a go at a traditional repair, reinforce the join & re-skim the entire ceiling; it can’t be that difficult for an experience plasterer can it all you need to do is find someone who can do it Failing that, cut it out & repair with PB as paul78's post.

I’d say £150 - £200 depending on how long it took but for that you'd get virtually a new ceiling.

 

[joe-90]

If it were me I'd recommend simply board over the whole ceiling and tape and skim. £200/250 ish.

 

[stevethespreader]

can’t be that difficult

your right its not rich its easy heres one i done earlier, one tip i can give when laying the pricking up coat on is trowel diagonal or it will just keep falling down with this particular ceiling i flushed it in to origonal skim, ive seen it after its been painted it looks ok
"Edit" if i was doing it your looking at 2 prices one to patch and one to patch and skim the whole ceiling , just to patch i would ask for 120 as you have to wait while the pricking up coat firms up before you can float it, then wait for that to firm up before you can skim it, to patch and skim the whole ceiling maybe another£200 for the skim so £320 all in
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[Richard C]

your right its not rich its easy heres one i done earlier

Interesting; what’s the pricking up coat, is it just red Bonding (as opposed to grey) or is it Browning?

 

[stevethespreader]

your right its not rich its easy heres one i done earlier

Interesting; what’s the pricking up coat, is it just red Bonding (as opposed to grey) or is it Browning?

yes its just bonding rich , and it took ages to firm up becuase of the thickness, and when the float coat went up
that took ages to go off as well, i thought the best thing i can do is come back the next day to skim it, i also made a traditional scratcher out of the laths called a lath scratcher lol, because i had mislaid my wire scratcher, thats why the pricking upcoat scratch is deeper and wider than normal

 

[joe-90]

Steve, are you saying that you raked out the laths after you took the piccie so that you get that mushrooming out effect above the laths? Did you PVA the laths?

 

[marshman]

Interesting; what’s the pricking up coat, ?

Its the first coat you push through the laths.

quote="Richard those that have are probably getting thin on the ground
and on the top.

Steve, I was taught to push away when you render or a float coat on a ceiling.

 

[plstering]

bet you was on the beer when you skimed that lid lol just joking m8

 

[roughcaster]

When i repair onto the original lath, if it's a sizeable area, especially on a ceiling, i rake out/clean between the laths, give the laths a "good soak" down 2 or 3 times to allow the dry wooden lath to absorb the moisture and swell up a bit. Give it plenty of PVA onto the lath, and around the edges of the original plaster too, then put on the pricking coat and scratch it. I also bed in lengths of hessian/jute scrim"across" the lath, from one side of the area to the other. Once it's all scratched and set, i'll put on the float coat to the thickness of the surrounding area, i'll then pva slurry/bonding coat and skim over the whole ceiling, to blend it all in together. Once it's got a couple of coats of multi finish over it, and then decorated, you'd never know it had been patched.

 

[plstering]

strip it back over board it skim it sorted

 

[stevethespreader]

Steve, are you saying that you raked out the laths after you took the piccie so that you get that mushrooming out effect above the laths? Did you PVA the laths?

not quite sure what you mean by mushrooming effect but no i did not pva the laths i was never tought to pva laths damp them down yes

 

[Richard C]

strip it back over board it skim it sorted

Yea; but that's the easy way out no fun at all

This thread is turning into a bit of a “Busman’s master class” so I will apologise on everyone’s behalf for hijacking your thread; OP you need to post back to bring it under control.

 

[stevethespreader]

Interesting; what’s the pricking up coat, ?

Its the first coat you push through the laths.

quote="Richard those that have are probably getting thin on the ground
and on the top.

Steve, I was taught to push away when you render or a float coat on a ceiling.

i think rich was asking about the material of the pricking up coat rather than the coat itself, also im not quite sure what you mean push away, i treat a wall and the ceiling the same weather im floating or skimming