Floor socket in the bedroom

[APullin]

I am intending to install a 2-gang floor socket in the bedroom.

The socket will be part of the upstairs ring main but the wall in which I wanted to site the socket is an old lat and plaster partition type which is built onto the floor boards and doesn't give any access for the cables to be pulled.

The socket will locate against the skirting board and will be under the bed (head end, will be used to bedside lamps etc) obviously not in a walk area so no trip hazard. I was looking at the ones with a sprung flap. Also I would ask the carpet fitter to fit around the socket using the normal gripper rods, so the carpet will not be near the socket.


This seems feasible to me can anyone offer advice ?

 

[sparkwright]

Yes, fit the socket on the wall.

Why do you want a floor socket?

Floorboards passing under a partition wall can be cut close to the skirting board, and a wooden platform can be made to support the cut board.

 

[Sureitsoff?]

Also dont forget that a floor socket type with a flap will always have the flap open when a plug is inserted so you may not be able to put the bed back to the wall.

 

[APullin]

Yes, fit the socket on the wall.

Why do you want a floor socket?

Floorboards passing under a partition wall can be cut close to the skirting board, and a wooden platform can be made to support the cut board.

Sorry, bad description.

I meant that the cables cannot be routed (pulled ?) to a socket if I chose to place it on the partition wall. I already have access to the ring main and have raised the floorboards required. My problem is, is that I have to get the cables to the sockets, there is no access and I can't provide that access albiet remove the skirting board which I don't want to do (10 feet long !).

This is why I chose floor mount sockets.

 

[sparkwright]

Often, you can use a long drill bit to drill behind the skirting board. A wire coat hanger can be used as a draw wire, and the cables tied to this.

When drilling, place your foot firmly against the skirting board to prevent it from pulling away.

 

[holmslaw]

..

 

[flameport]

I meant that the cables cannot be routed (pulled ?) to a socket if I chose to place it on the partition wall.

For a socket in an old partition wall with floorboards underneath the wall, sockets can be installed by:

1. Cut a hole into the wall the same size as the backbox, locating one side edge against one of the vertical timbers in the wall.
2. Using an angled drill, (the head of which will fit into the socket hole just cut) drill a hole through the bottom timber and floorboard into the space below
3. Remove an appropriate floorboard in the room near to the new socket position.
4. Thread cables through the socket hole, through the hole drilled into the floor and pull them under the floor to wherever they are to be connected.

To fit the socket into the partition, get a piece of 2x2 timber, cut to the longest length which will fit through the socket hole, apply a quantity of Gripfill adhesive to it and glue into position vertically inside the wall against the side of the socket hole.
When the glue has set, a metal backbox can be screwed into position in the wall, one side being fixed to the existing wall timber, and the other side to the new piece of timber which was glued in.

The socket is then wired and fixed to the backbox in the usual way, floorboards replaced and the end result is a socket flush in the wall, no visible damage and no need to redecorate either.

 

[Chri5]

I've recently done a few plaster and lathe wall sockets with the obscured floor access issues.

Get a 25mm spade wood drill, start a hole in the skit about 40mm above the floor line.
Stop drilling when about 6-7mm in to the skirt. Then readjust the drill angle from direct on to about 60 degrees, the existing started hole should hold the drill enough to drill at the new angle all the way through the skirt and through the flooring board.

For the plaster and lathe I used a dremel cutter and cut to the size of a dry line box. Once cut to reinforce the lathe I buttered some hard as nails around the inside of the wall to offer a firm surface for the dry liner box fixing wings to clamp to.

You then feed the cable up the floor via the hole cut with the spade drill and through the dry lin boxvia the void in the wall. Obviously you then have to plug up / fill and repaint the skirt where the hole is, but that a minor issue.

 

[APullin]

Often, you can use a long drill bit to drill behind the skirting board. A wire coat hanger can be used as a draw wire, and the cables tied to this.

When drilling, place your foot firmly against the skirting board to prevent it from pulling away.

I've done it from your suggestion. I've gone in with a long wood bit at a slight angle at the top of the skirting board. Slight damage to the wall, bit of filler, no problem.

Many thanks for the suggestion.

 

[OwainDIYer]

Wall mount the sockets. Take the cable in front of the skirting board and protect with minitrunking or capping.

Or cutout a chunk of skirting with a 'dremel'

 

[ban-all-sheds]

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Various techniques which an "electrician"

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .with just a Domestic Installer qualification

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .and no practical training would not know.