I understand now it may crack the render and squash the insulation. Trying to do a way that I best understand. What about cutting 2 small sections with grinder through the first render then cutting the insulation out. You would now be back to bare concrete. Cut 2 pieces of 4 inch timber and fix to wall with the 200mm expansion bolts. I would now have 2 pieces of timber flush with wall to fix my bracket to. But what bolts would be best to fix the brackets into timber. Maybe use 200mm expansion bolts which the first 100mm would be in timber then 100mm in bare concrete. This way I am tighting up against timber. Do you think this would work ?
expansion bolts
- Thread starter diycooper
- Start date
I understand now it may crack the render and squash the insulation. Trying to do a way that I best understand. What about cutting 2 small sections with grinder through the first render then cutting the insulation out. You would now be back to bare concrete. Cut 2 pieces of 4 inch timber and fix to wall with the 200mm expansion bolts. I would now have 2 pieces of timber flush with wall to fix my bracket to. But what bolts would be best to fix the brackets into timber. Maybe use 200mm expansion bolts which the first 100mm would be in timber then 100mm in bare concrete. This way I am tighting up against timber. Do you think this would work ?
Do you mean drill a hole then insert one of these then setting chemical ?
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p73106
This way I can insert threading rod ?
No, there are plastic sleeves. Hang on, I'll see if I can find a link to show you what I mean. Otherwise i will have a look at work tomorrow to see if I have a drawing.
Look at page 27 and 28 of this. It shows the sleeve. You can buy the all thread from any diy store.
Make sure you buy stainless steel.
http://www.fischer.co.uk/PortalData...formation/_documents/01chemicalfixings/01.pdf
Make sure you buy stainless steel.
http://www.fischer.co.uk/PortalData...formation/_documents/01chemicalfixings/01.pdf
I agree with this, but if you do want to fix to the wall using expanding bolts or resin anchors, you now need to ensure that the bolts don't bend under the weight of the canopy, as the insulation and render will not give any support. Someone who knows a little engineering would be able to do this for you if you can't do it yourself.
The rawlplug brochure is available online and gives you shear capacities for fixings into masonry.
You haven't told us how much your canopy weighs, but if more than a nominal amount, it will probably be impractical to fix directly to the wall.
I know this makes sense but i think 2 pillars outside by big garden window would look daft. The houses. by mine are all the same and have got sky dishes on so must be a less awkward way.
Using something that will not crush as a spacer between the solid wall and the canopy will help. While a solid bit of timber may do, you have to remember that if the timber can get wet it will rot. So how good will your workmanship be to keep the timber dry?
It may help if you post actual information on the canopy to better gauge how the fixings will work in practice. Due to leverage, it is quite possible the canopy relies on a solid background in an area where no fixing is required. You need to think of all the forces being applied to your render/insulation.
This is the canopy, I cannot find the weight in the book, but on lifting is fairly light.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230827581...eName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648
If you are going to cut the insulation back to bare brick, then can you not just fix it directly to the wall and make good the render afterwards.
Not possible as I was only cutting out 2 squares where the brackets would go. But the brackets need to be flush to the wall in order to attach the canopy. This is just how the brackets are.
But you have just gave me a idea, what about cutting two square out where the brackets are going and remove the insulation. Then fill the holes in with mortor, then use the bolts to fix into the mortor ?
Or even try the chemical fixing thread,then if it does feel as safe as can be remove insulation around bracket and replace with mortor.
Any views on this.
With out seeing the object you wish to hang and how heavy it is, its guess work. But if you try your method then put your bolts in and then cement round them.
OK I will be doing this over weekend so will report back. Going to get some m16 x 300 mm stainless steel thread. Cut 2 squares out of the insulation. Then drill 2 holes in each cut out and clean, then inject chemical and then insert thread. Leave this to set then cement the cut out with mortor and all around threads. Then hang brackets over the thread and bolt. I know this may be hard to understand so will take photos and upload but this should be good as right through from thread to bracket is solid.
I don't think you've really looked at the difference in size between a sat dish and the canopy your are talking about. It's not just the total area, it's also the leverage that the extended canopy can exert.
To give you some idea, grab hold of a broom by the end of it's handle - with both hands close together. Hold it out in front of you - you'll probably be able to hold it out horizontally. Now do the same with a bucket hung on the far end of it, with a couple of litre of water in it. The bucket is still light, but I bet you'll struggle to hold it up. Repeat while holding the broom near the head end - the lack of leverage makes it almost trivial to support the bucket.
I get you, and it sounds like a good plan to me.
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