texecom premier Flush mount vs Surface mount.

[carl0s]

I am replacing a surface-mounted R8 keypad.

I was going to order the surface-mount Premire Elite keypad (Brass), but started to wonder about the flush mount.

Does anyone have any idea about how the surface mount unit looks? Does it have a "flush" appearance to it? (does the front cover all the sides/edges, or will it look like a box screwed on the wall?)

I am thinking that if there is a big difference, I could use my PMF to chop a recess in the plaster/new wallpaper (eek), and fit the flush one.

The specs just say 26mm vs 7mm.


cheers,
Carl

 

[carl0s]

OK I found some pictures. The surface mount box looks good. I'm not sure it's worth the hassle to install the flush mount one, especially as I have just had it all wallpapered. Any thoughts?

 

[wcavanagh]

I went for flush when i installed mine, sorry crappy phone picture.

Untitled

• wcavanagh
• 8 Oct 2012
• 1

 

[carl0s]

Hmm. Does look kind of cool

Does it come with the necessary backbox?

 

[wcavanagh]

Yep sure does, the SDS drill soon sorted it. It even has rubber entry glands, etc, lol.

 

[carl0s]

Yep sure does, the SDS drill soon sorted it. It even has rubber entry glands, etc, lol.

OK sod it, why not. What's the worst that could happen (!)

(I am picturing my bad plaster disintegrating before my eyes, and my new wallpaper coming to pieces. No, it won't be that bad.. )

 

[wcavanagh]

Haha,

Fun to live life on the edge

 

[carl0s]

Well, I have ordered it all now! I started off thinking I was going to spend £41.99 on a replacement Veritas & LCD keypad, and I have so far ended up spending £300 on a Premier 48, flush mount brass keypad, a Com IP module, and a battery. Just need a couple of fobs off eBay now.

I was going to buy a wireless adapter to run the Com IP (Netgear WNCE2001 - http://www.pcworld.co.uk/gbuk/netgear-wnce2001-universal-wifi-internet-adapter-09520210-pdt.html ), but a Raspberry Pi + USB wifi dongle will cost about the same, and its ethernet & wlan interfaces can be bridged, so giving the same result plus a linux box to play with.

I know that DIY-alarms are sometimes frowned upon here a bit, but I'm doing this for two reasons: to deter burglars, and frighten them off if they do break in*, and so I can have something to tinker with, sort of the beginnings of a home automation thing.

*I used to know some bad lads, and I asked them what would stop them burglarizing somebody (i.e. me), and they very firmly said "burglar alarms. If an alarm goes off, we run like f**k."

 

[wcavanagh]

Sounds like a very similar setup to what I have, I also have the Prem 48 and Comm IP. Use the comm IP for Wintex, remote monitoring, auto email, etc. I use the Prem to trigger my CCTV to email me shots from all camera when alarm is set off. Also use it linked to my home automation system, just starting with that. I am an electronic / software programmer so always playing with these things, you can do some interesting stuff the the COMMIP webserver too.

Enjoy

 

[carl0s]

Sounds like a very similar setup to what I have, I also have the Prem 48 and Comm IP. Use the comm IP for Wintex, remote monitoring, auto email, etc. I use the Prem to trigger my CCTV to email me shots from all camera when alarm is set off. Also use it linked to my home automation system, just starting with that. I am an electronic / software programmer so always playing with these things, you can do some interesting stuff the the COMMIP webserver too.

Enjoy

Sounds ace! I'm a general network & IT guy, not much of a programmer but I can usually muddle my way through some perl or PHP with enough Googling and time. The only problem is, I *always* forget it before the time I try to do anything again. It's really hopeless unless you're doing it all the time.. or it is for me anyway

 

[carl0s]

Keypad has arrived damaged. Lame

 

[carl0s]

Would you be happy with that keypad or would you want to return it?
I'm not sure if I'm being picky - like when the pair of shoes I looked at had glue marks on them, but it's £100 + vat, and the perspex is broken..
Not heard back from the supplier yet.

 

[AdrianMealing]

Carl,

get it replaced, i am the Product Manager for Texecom, any issues just quote my name.

 

[carl0s]

Carl,

get it replaced, i am the Product Manager for Texecom, any issues just quote my name.

Thanks Adrian. I'm not having much joy getting through to the supplier but I'll give it a bit longer.

cheers,
Carl

 

[carl0s]

The supplier sent me an advanced replacement with a pre-paid return envelope, a couple of days after I posted above, so that's all good.

Unfortunately when I started using my Bosch PMF vibraty-cutty thing (great for skirting board and plasterboard..) for fitting the flushmount backbox, I quickly discovered BRICK behind the plaster. PMFs do not cut brick, as I found out.

So I had a learning exercise in chiseling brick.

I just finished up basic programming of the unit now after doing the wiring today (simply re-fitting existing wiring from the Veritas R8 ). Thankfully the battery is well dead in the bell box, since I don't have any ladders to get up that high, but, using just the speaker built into the keypad, it seems like it's all behaving as it should.

What's the reason for user-codes being defaulted to locked-out? (I had to change the "User 00 Locked by timer .....C" option, else I got "Sorry, code not allowed, use TAG" when trying to unset after an alarm.

I can imagine using prox tags is going to mean lots of scratches on that nice brass. I might stick tape over the tags.

Keypad looks pretty good. I will be redoing that bit of wallpaper (I replaced the lightswitch too and it's smaller than the old one), and flatting out the plaster around the backbox: