Power for an Island Cooker Hood?

[ebee]

"I'll happily cater for useful daily light switches and sockets, but I don't like the idea of an FCU sitting anywhere within eye-line which will be rarely used/touched."

Why?

I had a customer like that once - did not want any points that were in normal view, it was a right nightmare working out where to put them to be reasonably usable . But she had this "thing" about them not being seen.

I wonder if she thought the same about doors and windows?

 

[sergeantash]

Thanks guys - BAS I do like the idea of a switch array, I'll ponder that one.

Hard to reach yes, but it'll be so infrequently that I ever need to isolate the hood, or change the fuse so I'm not particularly worried about having to drag out the ladders if/when I do.

I'll keep scratching my head

 

[Tomel]

"I'll happily cater for useful daily light switches and sockets, but I don't like the idea of an FCU sitting anywhere within eye-line which will be rarely used/touched."

Why?

I had a customer like that once - did not want any points that were in normal view, it was a right nightmare working out where to put them to be reasonably usable . But she had this "thing" about them not being seen.

I wonder if she thought the same about doors and windows?

Taste? Fashion? Styling? You might not agree, but everyone's opinion is different.

Some people would be happy with wiring in trunking if it makes the job cheaper, others wouldn't even contemplate the idea.

At the end of the day, she knew the look / quality of finish she wanted, and was (presumably) happy to pay a premium to achieve it - can't really fault that!

 

[sergeantash]

I'm now running the cabling for this extractor and will use the FCU method advised earlier in this thread, spurring from the mains ring. Here are the electrical stats for the Cooker Hood:

Electrical Information
Mains electrical voltage: 230 – 240Vac, 50Hz
Total rated power consumption: 290W
Double Pole Switched Fused Spur Outlet
Recommended FCU Fuse: 3 amp

IMPORTANT: THIS APPLIANCE IS A CLASS II APPLIANCE (DOUBLE INSULATED) AND IS NOT INTENDED TO
BE EARTHED. DO NOT FIT AN EARTH LEAD TO THIS EXTRACTOR.

Could someone advise on an appropriate cable weight to run from the FCU to the appliance? Could I run 1.5mm rather than continuing the 2.5mm used on the circuit ring itself?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Yup - here you go:

• //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:mcbtocable
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.1.htm
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.11.htm
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/5.3.1.htm
  
  
• http://web.archive.org/web/20080213151445/http://www.kevinboone.com/cableselection_web.pdf
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html
  

If you're struggling with something as basic as that, will you be able to cope with testing?

When you applied for Building Regulations approval, what did you say would be the way that you'd ensure compliance with Part P?

 

[sergeantash]

I'm now running the cabling for this extractor and will use the FCU method advised earlier in this thread, spurring from the mains ring. Here are the electrical stats for the Cooker Hood:

Electrical Information
Mains electrical voltage: 230 – 240Vac, 50Hz
Total rated power consumption: 290W
Double Pole Switched Fused Spur Outlet
Recommended FCU Fuse: 3 amp

IMPORTANT: THIS APPLIANCE IS A CLASS II APPLIANCE (DOUBLE INSULATED) AND IS NOT INTENDED TO
BE EARTHED. DO NOT FIT AN EARTH LEAD TO THIS EXTRACTOR.

Could someone advise on an appropriate cable weight to run from the FCU to the appliance? Could I run 1.5mm rather than continuing the 2.5mm used on the circuit ring itself?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Could someone advise on an appropriate cable weight to run from the FCU to the appliance?

Someone already has:

• //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:mcbtocable
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.1.htm
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.11.htm
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/5.3.1.htm
  
  
• http://web.archive.org/web/20080213151445/http://www.kevinboone.com/cableselection_web.pdf
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html
  

 

[sergeantash]

Could someone advise on an appropriate cable weight to run from the FCU to the appliance?

Someone already has:

• //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:mcbtocable
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.1.htm
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.11.htm
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/5.3.1.htm
  
  
• http://web.archive.org/web/20080213151445/http://www.kevinboone.com/cableselection_web.pdf
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html
  

My intention is to proceed and do this regardless of your sarcasm and patronising responses. Therefore, would you kindly do me the courtesy of simply answering this basic question.

At present, I'll be proceeding with 2.5mm from the FCU to the appliance this weekend, I would appreciate if you could confirm or suggest otherwise.

 

[RF Lighting]

What difference does it make if you're going to carry on regardless anyway?

Cable size is only a very small part of designing a circuit. If you'd actually bothered to read the links that ban-all-sheds gave you then you'd have a much better idea of how to carry out this work, and you should be able to work out the required cable size your self. Hell he's even linked to an online calculator so all you have to do is type in your circuit characteristics and it works out the cable size for you!

Instead you just dismiss them as being patronising and sarcastic?

 

[sergeantash]

What difference does it make if you're going to carry on regardless anyway?

Because the reason users such as me register for a forum like this is to ask and receive advice. If I was an electrician, the links would be useful but I'm not - I'm a competent DIYer looking for assistance so that I can get this simple issue implemented correctly.

I appreciate the links that were posted, but I'm not aware of how to put together the information to determine the answer that I'm looking for.

 

[sergeantash]

Ok, I've just tried the calculator and got the following:

Required Cable Size 1 mm
Voltage Drop 0.166 Volts.
Percentage Drop 0.072%
Current Load 1.00 Amps
Max Cable Load* 13.0 Amps

So on this assumption, I could use 1.5mm to give a safety margin?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

My intention is to proceed and do this regardless of your sarcasm and patronising responses.

I was neither sarcastic nor patronising.

Unless, of course, you'd like to claim that I must have been patronising you because I must have known that you were incapable of understanding the information I gave you.

Are you?

Therefore, would you kindly do me the courtesy of simply answering this basic question.

At present, I'll be proceeding with 2.5mm from the FCU to the appliance this weekend, I would appreciate if you could confirm or suggest otherwise.

I did answer it:

• //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:mcbtocable
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.1.htm
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.11.htm
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/5.3.1.htm
  
  
• http://web.archive.org/web/20080213151445/http://www.kevinboone.com/cableselection_web.pdf
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html
  

It seems to me that you don't seem to grasp the fact that if you want to assume the role of circuit designer you have to be competent to do it.

Am I right in that?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Because the reason users such as me register for a forum like this is to ask and receive advice.

You asked.

And you received:

• //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:mcbtocable
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.1.htm
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.11.htm
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/5.3.1.htm
  
  
• http://web.archive.org/web/20080213151445/http://www.kevinboone.com/cableselection_web.pdf
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html
  

If I was an electrician, the links would be useful but I'm not

No, but if you want to do circuit design then you must be as good at it as an electrician. Incompetence and substandard work is utterly unacceptable.

I'm a competent DIYer looking for assistance so that I can get this simple issue implemented correctly.

You got that assistance. And if it's simple then it should be no trouble to get it right.

I appreciate the links that were posted, but I'm not aware of how to put together the information to determine the answer that I'm looking for.

Then whatever your competence is in other aspect of DIY, it is insufficient in this aspect.

Did you actually take the trouble to read all of that material, or did you decide you just couldn't be bothered?

 

[sergeantash]

It seems to me that you don't seem to grasp the fact that if you want to assume the role of circuit designer you have to be competent to do it.

Am I right in that?

And what makes you the grand competent member that you would like others to believe you to be? Perhaps your incompetent and therefore incapable of providing me with a context related response, instead you opt to copy/paste links to members on every occasion whenever anyone asks for help.

For all I know, you're some 'once-qualified' aging electrician, now stacking the shelves of B&Q and spending the majority of your day on this forum, pretending to know what you're talking about. You certainly weren't appreciated on the IET or Screwfix forums some years ago...

Regardless, I consider you to be an arrogant prick and once again I am thankful for the 'Ignore' feature, which I will once again enable.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

PS - when I talk about design, you need to be aware of the context:

FOR DESIGN, CONSTRUCTION, INSPECTION & TESTING
I being the person responsible for the design, construction, inspection & testing of the electrical installation (as indicated by my signature below), particulars of which are described above, having exercised reasonable skill and care when carrying out the design, construction, inspection & testing hereby CERTIFY that the said work for which I have been responsible is to the best of my knowledge and belief in accordance with BS 7671:2008, amended to ............. (date) except for the departures, if any, detailed as follows:

Which brings us back to this:

will you be able to cope with testing?

When you applied for Building Regulations approval, what did you say would be the way that you'd ensure compliance with Part P?

both of which should be addressed before you get too far down the road to the twin towns of Rock and Hard Place.