Planing

[Harbourwoodwork]

A lie Nielsen No 4 is £260 quid!

yeah then just chuck it in your tool bag.

think this 1 is better,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Norris-Lo..._ToolsHasdware_RL&hash=item4abe695616[/QUOTE]

tool's don't look right until they've been rolling round in a bass for a few years

 

[ladylola]

To be honest even if I use a power plane I will still finish it off by hand and sometimes it's less of a faff to do it by hand rather than messing around with a transformer and leads. I tend to prefer my jack plane but as I don't always have it with me I'm still ok with a smoothing plane. I've seen people use a block plane and make a good job too, it's all about what you feel comfortable with I think.

 

[foxhole]

think this 1 is better,

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Norris-Lo..._ToolsHasdware_RL&hash=item4abe695616[/QUOTE]
Don't be silly - that's a shoulder rebate plane!

.....the procces must include using the planner on its edge that means part of the blade will be exposed on the blind side......

You can always adjust the fence so that only the required width of the cutter is exposed.....

That said the first month I had an electric planer many years back I managed to shave 2mm off the end of one finger. Loads of blood, but fortunately it didn't put me off work

I have flat side to one of my fingers

 

[SaladFingers]

Should we be encouraging DIYers to take the bottom of a door with an eletric planer ,the procces must include using the planner on its edge that means part of the blade will be exposed on the blind side and i'm sure we all do it this way I'm not being preachy,what do you lot think ??? has anyone ever got back with grisly DIY amputationes tales

Hey, I'm not stupid. I fitted the door and frame myself and am more than competent with tools. Used my circular saw loads and I observe safety with that over anything else.

 

[SaladFingers]

Are these good ones?

http://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/block-smooting-planes/cat860010

 

[gregers]

Should we be encouraging DIYers to take the bottom of a door with an eletric planer ,the procces must include using the planner on its edge that means part of the blade will be exposed on the blind side and i'm sure we all do it this way I'm not being preachy,what do you lot think ??? has anyone ever got back with grisly DIY amputationes tales

i do the same as jobandknock,on my bosch blue i use the adjustable guide which covers the blade if i only want to plane down a small width.

but i see what you mean.

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

Perhaps there should be some how to safely vids on the site???

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Are these good ones?

http://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/block-smooting-planes/cat860010[/QUOTE]
No. They are utter crap! Pay a little more (about £50) and get a Qiangsheng low angle block plane or a Qiangsheng standard angle block plane from Rutlands - and learn how to sharpen it properly (Google "Scary Sharp"). These are Chinese copies of the much more expensive Lie-Nielsen planes complete with thick cutter and unlike many Chinese products are exceptionally well made and value for money - not as good as an L-N, but better than a cheap Stanley or Record Irwin. I put my money where my mouth was a few months back and added one to my site kit to replace a damaged 50 year old Record. Cheap planes all have thin, poorly hardened cutters and never work right. They often require a lot of work to get them working properly in the first place (and what novice knows how to do that?). I suppose that's why many DIYers eschew them.

Should we be encouraging DIYers to take the bottom of a door with an electric planer ,the procces must include using the planer on its edge that means part of the blade will be exposed on the blind side and i'm sure we all do it this way I'm not being preachy,what do you lot think ??? has anyone ever got back with grisly DIY amputationes tales

Hey, I'm not stupid. I fitted the door and frame myself and am more than competent with tools. Used my circular saw loads and I observe safety with that over anything else.

To back up HWW I have to say he has a point. In the first month of using my own power planer (30 odd years ago) I took a couple of millimetres off one finger tip - it was an ELU and unlike the Tarplaner I'd previously used from work it was light enough to use on door bottoms. I've repeated that mistake only once since I can tell you that finger tips have a good supply of both blood and nerve endings, but that oddly you don't feel the cut at all - to start with. I believe I was properly trained and have enough years experience as a joiner to know better - at least in theory. Take that any way you like

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

Should we be encouraging DIYers to take the bottom of a door with an eletric planer ,the procces must include using the planner on its edge that means part of the blade will be exposed on the blind side and i'm sure we all do it this way I'm not being preachy,what do you lot think ??? has anyone ever got back with grisly DIY amputationes tales

Hey, I'm not stupid. I fitted the door and frame myself and am more than competent with tools. Used my circular saw loads and I observe safety with that over anything else.

I think your missing the point here ,lets put ego's to one side and work on the basis of what can happen will happen, thats the way it goes!!!!

 

[SaladFingers]

Should we be encouraging DIYers to take the bottom of a door with an eletric planer ,the procces must include using the planner on its edge that means part of the blade will be exposed on the blind side and i'm sure we all do it this way I'm not being preachy,what do you lot think ??? has anyone ever got back with grisly DIY amputationes tales

Hey, I'm not stupid. I fitted the door and frame myself and am more than competent with tools. Used my circular saw loads and I observe safety with that over anything else.

I think your missing the point here ,lets put ego's to one side and work on the basis of what can happen will happen, thats the way it goes!!!!

Well let's not get carried away now. It has nothing to do with egos. It's more egotistical to say 'should we give advice to someone who wants to do it himself'.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

It's more egotistical to say 'should we give advice to someone who wants to do it himself'.

Sorry, but are you saying that those of us in the position to give advice, freely, are all driven by ego? I think that HWW was acting out of genuine concern for the safety of people reading this thread. Power tools are all potentially dangerous. Tradespeople generally know, sometimes from painful personal experience, or the experiences of colleagues, where a lot of the pitfalls are. Many DIYers do not. Surely it cannot be in anyone's interest to withhold the "gotchas" when discussing such issues?

BTW can we get back on topic, now?

 

[SaladFingers]

It's more egotistical to say 'should we give advice to someone who wants to do it himself'.

Sorry, but are you saying that those of us in the position to give advice, freely, are all driven by ego?

No need to be sorry. And no I'm not saying that. I did not bring 'ego' into it, someone else did.

I do appreciate advice, but I certainly hope you'd not question wheather I think those who can give advice are driven by ego, yet let someone else try and assume I am.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

To get back OT, then. A joiner would traditionally have used a jack plane (#5 or #5-1/2 - 5-1/2 are wider, but not needed in many instances) to do this task. Smoothing planes (~3, #4 and #4-1/2) are probably a bit short for the task whilst a fore plane (#6) or a jointer (#7) would be too long. The problem these days is that most of what masquerade as planes are pretty bloody awful! Cheap makes like Groz, Anant or Kunz are plain inadequate out of the box with warped soles, poor quality blades and shoddy adjusters. No-name DIY store "specials" are even worse! No wonder that many DIYers bever learn to plane properly. The difficulty is that to turn one of these ugly ducklings into something more swan like it takes a bit of education and experience. If you want to buy a jack plane straight out of the box which works perfectly, straight away you can only really go for 3 makes: Clifton, Veritas or Lie-Nielsen. As you can see they aren't cheap. What were once "quality" makes like Stanley and Record are now very much degraded and IMHO not worth considering these days, although Stanley is at least still made in the UK (Record now manufacture in the far East and the quality is poo!)..... Sort of Catch 22, really. About the only "quality" jack plane I know of on the market is probably the Qiangsheng #5, at £100. I say "probably" because I've never seen one, but I did take a punt on two smaller planes from the same maker and they are very good - not quite in the top table league, but nonetheless streets ahead of the stuff at £70 and below. Just be prepared to sharpen and hone the blade if you get it.

My problem with doing it that way is this - with a circular saw, two cramps and a batten I can shorten a door very quickly and accurately (you need to either scribe the timber with a knife where the blade exits or clamp on a sacrificial block to stop any spelching). I will use a block plane to clean-up at the end if needs be, but that's it. With a hand plane it takes longer, certainly in inexperienced hands, especially if it's a poorly set-up plane. It will be awkward and frustrating to do the job and having to plane in from both sides will create further problems of having to work against the grain, etc. Makes using a power planer seem a lot simpler

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

I haven't heard anyone say spelch for donkeys,a great old word that is totally descriptive and onomatopoeic in "T"bargin ,I wonder what the root's are.maybe Norse

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I use other old words, too, like "turnscrew".....