Maximum Length Flex For T5 Link Lights

This could mean you will have three plugs for one double socket.

Can you replace the double socket for a triple socket?

Triple sockets aren't available in fancy designs, just plain white plastic.
 
Or, you can fit a junction box near the supply end of the cupboard light wiring, so only one three pin plug is needed for the lights.

You would need a junction box with cable clamps to secure the flex, or plenty of cable clips.
 
Can you replace the double socket for a triple socket?

Could a junction box be used AFTER first light (top-left in Overhead Diagram), giving two outlets?

One cable/outlet could feed the two 'linked' lights (top-right).

A separate cable/outlet could feed the furthest light at bottom-right?

All lights would then presumably come on when the switch on the first light is pressed?

Alternatively could these lights still be linked together (despite the distances), using T5 Male/Female Rewireable Plugs like the ones below and correct cable?



The longest pre-made cables I have found are 3 metres.

If none of the above is acceptable, I'll look out for one of those 3G sockets when in town tomorrow.
 
The fusing of this is getting a bit silly:

16A MCB to 13A fuse in socket outlet to 3A fuses in lighting & hood plugs....

Unless the lighting and the hood come with plugs already attached:

Just put a 6A breaker in the CU.

Forget 3 pin sockets, plugs and 1362 fuses......

Just use DP switches to isolate.
 
Bugger it!

I'm just gonna plug the cooker hood into an existing 3-pin socket with 3 amp fuse. That will be OK I assume?

This will mean extending the cooker hood cable by a metre or so, losing a wall socket and stop the cooker hood and lights being on their own circuit.

But it will save a lot of hassle and confusion.

Thanks for the advice guys.

As usual, much appreciated.
 

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