Going back to Sky after a bad experience with Virgin Mediocre.... I see the new router is marked 230v .2a =46 watts. The previous router was 12v 1a = 12 watts . Sky say leave it on 24/7 . Why are new routers less "green" and using more power ? Seems to go against all initiatives to be more efficient. Maybe I'll use the old router, it was good enough for what I need
New Sky router power consumption
- Thread starter DaveHerns
- Start date
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No it doesn't. You don't know the power factor so it could be anything from zero to 46 watts.
Don't confuse the maximum input rating with actual power consumption. There's no way it pulls 46W.
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I accept the 12volt one might use a bit more because of the losses in the power supply unit but why do they mark it .2 amp if as you say it uses less ? Doesn't a 60 watt light bulb use 60 watts ? I did have an argument with Panasonic over my plasma TV where the box was marked 180 w Efficiency rating C ( guessing these) whereas on the back of the TV it says 275 w . They replied it depends on how you use it .I'm still unconvinced. Going back to my router , surely it's "transmitting" all the time and the power consumption remains constant?
There's a power supply in the new one, too, it doesn't run off 240V. That's the worst case rating and is probably specified at a much lower voltage.
Not remotely. If nothing is using it, it'll only wake very occasionally (relatively speaking.. we're talking about hardware which performs millions of instructions per second, here, so a delay of a millisecond is huge) to make a very brief transmission. The rest of the time it should consume next to nothing. Average power consumption over a long period is dominated by the power supply, and will be measured in very low single digits at worst.
use an energy monitor got one from this source a year or so ago for £10.50
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shop around youll get one a bit cheaper
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http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...t=true&ref_=oh_aui_reorder_detailpage_o01_s00
shop around youll get one a bit cheaper
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Costs more than the router is likely to cost to run for a year.
If it's not physically hot to the touch, it's not costing much to run.
yes i understand that
i went round all plug in items in my house and theres a label on all off them with
off 'standby and on watts marked plus other values as appropriate if they have different settings
i also measured all my led light bulbs so can choose the best and worst for consumption as some can use 2 to 2.5 times more power for the same light output
i went round all plug in items in my house and theres a label on all off them with
off 'standby and on watts marked plus other values as appropriate if they have different settings
i also measured all my led light bulbs so can choose the best and worst for consumption as some can use 2 to 2.5 times more power for the same light output
they are brilliant not all about saving money its about knowing when you can relax and not worry for example i used to worry about the washing machine and tumble dryer but the washing machine uses just over 1kwh per cycle and the tumble about 2kw so far cheaper than i thought
indeed because i dont use the washing machine daily i actually worked out that a cycle uses less power from a cold fill than leaving it on standby for a week
you can enter the cost off a kwh into the meter and it will tell you the cost over several hours or days
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I tried to work out what was using so much power with a plug in meter. But then I started to work out what it would cost to replace heavy users with more efficient models and I was coming up with 10 ~ 20 years to pay for the change and that was without fracturing in interest lost on money used once I did that then many items hit infinity with the time.
The big on was fridge and freezer since they run 24/7 and it was a mine field as the internet sites use the price of the non frost free fridges which once you factor in the cost of de-frosting once a month or so are not as efficient as they first seem.
This was repeated with many other items. With a free to air box on stand-by I could not measure current it used as so low. With the Sky box it used around 14W on stand-by. But the Sky box auto changed times when programs were delayed and meant I did not also need a VCR or video recorder running as well.
I moved from Talktalk to Sky for broad band and it was the router which transformed how everything was run. The router power resulted in lap tops working in every room and all the temp LAN cables were redundant. All but the Sky box and the Blue-ray are now wireless. I honestly do not care if it uses 4 times the power of old system as the big thing is it works.
I have only one complaint since going onto sky my caller ID has failed. It should work I have since Christmas logged three calls.
The big on was fridge and freezer since they run 24/7 and it was a mine field as the internet sites use the price of the non frost free fridges which once you factor in the cost of de-frosting once a month or so are not as efficient as they first seem.
This was repeated with many other items. With a free to air box on stand-by I could not measure current it used as so low. With the Sky box it used around 14W on stand-by. But the Sky box auto changed times when programs were delayed and meant I did not also need a VCR or video recorder running as well.
I moved from Talktalk to Sky for broad band and it was the router which transformed how everything was run. The router power resulted in lap tops working in every room and all the temp LAN cables were redundant. All but the Sky box and the Blue-ray are now wireless. I honestly do not care if it uses 4 times the power of old system as the big thing is it works.
I have only one complaint since going onto sky my caller ID has failed. It should work I have since Christmas logged three calls.
Fracturing is what you do if you break a leg.
The word you want is "factoring".
See http://help.sky.com/articles/caller-display
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