Outside tap replacement HELP!! newbie

[simmo3801]

Hi everyone this is my first post here but I've lurked for a while and found some useful answers here in the past. I'm in the process of replacing the outside tap as the old one was wrecked by sub zero temp a few weeks ago. I bought a new tap and wall plate from screwfix (as there was also a leak from the original wall plate from the nut) I removed the old olive, fitted a new one, put the new elbow wall plate on however when I screw the tap on, the nozzle points skyward!!! I have tried starting it off at different angles but no matter what I do to tighten it so that it doesn't leak it ends up pointing upwards. I've used a good few wraps of ptfe tape. The pipe coming out of the wall bends 90 degrees upwards if that makes any difference. The leak at the nut holding the wall elbow joint onto the pipe is still there after the olive replacement despite the use of ptfe tape.

Any suggestions as to how to sort this would be much appreciated. I'll add a photo once I've charged my camera battery!

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

You will need about 15 turns of PTFE tape on the male thread of the tap. Then try wrapping the PTFE on the olive on the pipe.

 

[Burnerman]

For the tap problem, more and more and more ptfe.....Loctite do some that comes out of the dispenser as a string, and don't be scared of winding the tap in tight.
As for the leak, did the pipe entering the wall plate locate fully in?
John

 

[simmo3801]

I'll try more ptfe in that case thanks. After a number of frustrated attempts I tightened the tap, turned the water to it back on then tried to tighten it more to stop the dripping where the tap secures to the wall plate but ended up with a spray coming out of the top of that connection so I didn't want to tighten it any further as I took that as a bad sign. I'll check the wall plate connection again in case I haven't seated it properly and try some tape around the olive.

Thanks to you both for your advice

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Make sure you wrap the tape on correctly on the thread, so that when you tighten up it is not pulling the tape off.

 

[simmo3801]

Yup I learnt that the hard way!!

 

[PTS2]

I'll try more ptfe in that case thanks.

Do as burnerman suggests and get some loctite 55 string. PTFE tape is there to lubricate, not seal. The olive should also seal by compression alone onto the pipe. If it doesn't then you need to find out why and fix it, not wrap PTFE around it.

 

[simmo3801]

Prenticeboy and burnerman just an update I took everything apart, put PTFE tape on the olive and made sure the pipe was seated in the wall plate, wrapped 16 turns of PTFE around the tap thread and it has all worked. Thank you both!

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Prenticeboy and burnerman just an update I took everything apart, put PTFE tape on the olive and made sure the pipe was seated in the wall plate, wrapped 16 turns of PTFE around the tap thread and it has all worked. Thank you both!

Thank you for the update, tried and tested procedure, pleased it worked for you and happy to help.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

The olive should also seal by compression alone onto the pipe. If it doesn't then you need to find out why and fix it, not wrap PTFE around it.

The olive should seal by compression, but sometimes it does not and requires a little non-invasive help, and wrapping the olive with PTFE tape will help seal an unstable joint.

 

[PTS2]

PTFE is an excellent insulator as well, so if you've just crimped some twin and earth and don't have any heatshrink at hand, wrapping the joint with tape will help stop those pesky electrons getting out so you can bury it in the wall!

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

PTFE is an excellent insulator as well, so if you've just crimped some twin and earth and don't have any heatshrink at hand, wrapping the joint with tape will help stop those pesky electrons getting out so you can bury it in the wall!

Would that comply to BS7671, what voltage rating does PTFE come under and the approved BS/EN for it to to used that way?

 

[PTS2]

Of course it complies with BS7671.

Are you saying using PTFE isn't appropriate?

If your olive is leaking you fix the problem and don't bodge it with PTFE

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Of course it complies with BS7671.

Are you saying using PTFE isn't appropriate?

I am questioning whether it does, not saying it does not!
Where in the data product sheet, does it state that it complies to the appropriate voltage ratings an is suitable for this application?

If your olive is leaking you fix the problem and don't bodge it with PTFE

If I had a wonky or damaged olive, chinked in pipework of a dodgy nut, I would fix the problem, if I had a slight leak where non-invasive action could be taken, action that could cause other issues, I am happy to use PTFE tape and personally do not consider this application to be consider a bodge. I have come across many situations where it is evident that PTFE tape has been applied and lasted many years, when done correctly it does not look aesthetically unpleasing, if noticeable at all. There is many occasion where PTFE tape must be used, they are not bodge jobs, if you have a situation that can be resolved using a method that is legal, does not not comply to standards, stands the test of time and does not look like a dogs rear end, I do not consider it a bodge.

 

[PTS2]

BS7671 simply specifies (among other things) that a joint has to be insulated - it doesn't specify how, it doesn't require a product data sheet, and the heat shrink most electricians use and buy at Screwfix doesn't come with one either. The way to find out if a joint is insulated is to carry out an insulation resistance test on the installation. PTFE is a far better insulator than the stuff in heat shrink and has a far longer half life. Therefore wrap enough of it around the crimped joint, bury it in the wall, and it it tests OK it complies.

But nobody on here is interested in this nonsense and you have completely missed my point. That is that although something might work, it might not be the best way of doing it. PTFE is designed to lubricate a screw fitting so you can get it tighter so it seals. Although it works to fill a gap and so effect a temporary seal (which might be long enough for you to say you don't need to come back and fix it), and it works to insulate so might be used to wrap a crimped joint, using it for those purposes is not the best way to do the job.

In fact if you don't want to fix a leaky compression joint, or if you don't think it's possible, then a jointing compound might be a better solution.

Cheers