Need a feed for outside tap?

[budest]

Hey guys and girls!

Competent DIY'er looking for professional advice on how I could take a feed for an outside tap from all this....

...or looking to find out how this installation can be changed to accommodate another outlet?

Any help appreciated as always.

Thanks

**EDIT**
Here is a picture of the full installation, but note it's an older picture before I installed the dishwasher which required the Y connector. But it'll give a clearer idea of what I'm working with.

 

[budest]

This may be a silly suggestion but is it practical to add a compression Y connection to the shutoff valve denoted by the red arrow then connect the plastic Y connector to one outlet and then connect a flexi to the other outlet where it would go on to fed the outside tap? Sounds daft even writing that but I can't think of anything else bar getting in a plumber.

 

[budest]

One last idea (and probably better)......how about adding a compression Y connection to here (red arrow position)?

 

[dilalio]

It'd be easier to see without the trap in the way but it looks like your simplest solution would be to insert a 22/15 centre T just above the incoming stopcock and go off from there to an outside tap, using plastic pipe and an elbow or 2, to get to the location of the new outlet. You'll need to get a double check valve in the run and also a means of isolating the tap, from inside, to prevent winter freezing.
You "could" just put a bib tap on that has a single check valve built in!

If you have a "slim" hep removal tool, you could also put a longer bit of copper into the T that feeds the appliance (top right of photo) and T into that for your outside tap.

How's your soldering? If it were me, I'd make up a nice, neat manifold in copper, to replace the plate of plastic spaghetti.

 

[FiremanT]

This may be a silly suggestion but is it practical to add a compression Y connection to the shutoff valve denoted by the red arrow then connect the plastic Y connector to one outlet and then connect a flexi to the other outlet where it would go on to fed the outside tap? Sounds daft even writing that but I can't think of anything else bar getting in a plumber.

Remove blue isolation valve. Fit compression Tee to existing not, Use very sort piece of 15mm tube to connect valve to Tee. Run OS pipe from the Tee.
Or am I missing something?

 

[budest]

This may be a silly suggestion but is it practical to add a compression Y connection to the shutoff valve denoted by the red arrow then connect the plastic Y connector to one outlet and then connect a flexi to the other outlet where it would go on to fed the outside tap? Sounds daft even writing that but I can't think of anything else bar getting in a plumber.

Remove blue isolation valve. Fit compression Tee to existing not, Use very sort piece of 15mm tube to connect valve to Tee. Run OS pipe from the Tee.
Or am I missing something?

Thanks for your reply!

So say I replaced the isolation valve with a compression T isolation valve like this http://www.screwfix.com/p/compressi...tracking url&gclid=CPqozPrh5s4CFeoK0wodsngAzQ

How could I then connect the plastic Y connector to the T given the angles of the connections?

 

[budest]

Here's the kit I've ordered.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0084KSWGC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[budest]

It'd be easier to see without the trap in the way but it looks like your simplest solution would be to insert a 22/15 centre T just above the incoming stopcock and go off from there to an outside tap, using plastic pipe and an elbow or 2, to get to the location of the new outlet. You'll need to get a double check valve in the run and also a means of isolating the tap, from inside, to prevent winter freezing.
You "could" just put a bib tap on that has a single check valve built in!

If you have a "slim" hep removal tool, you could also put a longer bit of copper into the T that feeds the appliance (top right of photo) and T into that for your outside tap.

How's your soldering? If it were me, I'd make up a nice, neat manifold in copper, to replace the plate of plastic spaghetti.

Thanks for your help mate.

I'm looking into what exactly your options would entail and whether I think I could do it or not.

 

[FiremanT]

I had meant a standard Tee:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-prestex-px50-compression-equal-tee-15mm/5821g

inserted before your appliance valve. But you could do the same thing with the Tee which is part of the kit you ordered

 

[Madrab]

Just to be pedantic, that kit doesn't meet water regs anymore as it doesn't have an internal double check valve. External Taps with integral double check valves are no longer WRAS approved to provide suitable protection.

 

[FiremanT]

Just to be pedantic, that kit doesn't meet water regs anymore as it doesn't have an internal double check valve. External Taps with integral double check valves are no longer WRAS approved to provide suitable protection.

Well spotted, Mad.

OP: The tap just does not comply, they are useless. One frosty winter, and it will be knackered. Why not just go to BES, and buy components separately. If you can solder, you will have a better job than with, possibly, a third rate flexi.

https://www.bes.co.uk/products/097.asp

Oh, and BTW, contrary to the title, it is most definitely NOT a "professional" kit, and does not comply for a NEW installation but does as a replacement. But for a replacement, you would not need all the other bits. So totally wrong.

 

[budest]

Just to be pedantic, that kit doesn't meet water regs anymore as it doesn't have an internal double check valve. External Taps with integral double check valves are no longer WRAS approved to provide suitable protection.

Noted thanks and order cancelled.

 

[budest]

Just to be pedantic, that kit doesn't meet water regs anymore as it doesn't have an internal double check valve. External Taps with integral double check valves are no longer WRAS approved to provide suitable protection.

Well spotted, Mad.

OP: The tap just does not comply, they are useless. One frosty winter, and it will be knackered. Why not just go to BES, and buy components separately. If you can solder, you will have a better job than with, possibly, a third rate flexi.

https://www.bes.co.uk/products/097.asp

Oh, and BTW, contrary to the title, it is most definitely NOT a "professional" kit, and does not comply for a NEW installation but does as a replacement. But for a replacement, you would not need all the other bits. So totally wrong.

Thanks again for your input. Unfortunately I have never soldered in that way before and wouldn't know where to start tbh

 

[budest]

I had meant a standard Tee:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-prestex-px50-compression-equal-tee-15mm/5821g

inserted before your appliance valve. But you could do the same thing with the Tee which is part of the kit you ordered

This we kit from Screwfix looks easy enough to fit. What's your opinions on it?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/outside-t...d=589429#product_additional_details_container

 

[dilalio]

@budest I don't like any of those "kits" and WRAS approved is not mentioned anywhere! The need for a 'proper' double check valve is for a scenarios like: hose connected to tap, other end of hose in garden pond; water turned off and/or pressure removed; back syphoning causes pond water to end up in potable water supply pipes! The problem with a check valve in the tap body is that it could freeze during cold weather and become defective, unnoticed, thus protection is no longer present when summer returns and the hose is again in use!
It's quite simple to do this using hard piping but you would need some basic plumbing tools!