Buying a stove by accident

Ive rebuilt quite a number of no3s, mostly the newer model which was the top draught version.
Are you sure there is an ash pan missing because from memory they were a wood burning model where the fire sits on a solid plate?
the main thing you need to check is how good the fire cement seams between panels are ,block off the flue with a smoke bomb inside and if it smoke from the joints it will need dissmantling and resealing. Do this outside of course!
Multifuel or coal burning appliances have bars and an ashpan and a vent that allows air from under the fire but woodburners require air above the seat of the fire .
Your stove doesnt have a very advanced air system and as such will not be as economical as the modern day equivilants but is still a nice stove to have
litl
 
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Caveat emptor I'm afraid, but you've still got a lovely stove that'll sell well once it's been renovated - but I know you were joking, so all's well.
 
Are you sure there is an ash pan missing because from memory they were a wood burning model where the fire sits on a solid plate?

The presence of these runners on either side underneath the stove made me think the ash pane was missing. If there is no ash pane, how do you clean out the ash?

the main thing you need to check is how good the fire cement seams between panels are ,block off the flue with a smoke bomb inside and if it smoke from the joints it will need dissmantling and resealing. Do this outside of course!

Think I am going dismantle it and refresh the cement anyway. I have two years before the renovation to get this thing ready. Would love you to share to share your experience. Any tips for me - how do I get the nuts off, they look like they are going to stubborn. What fire cement do you use for this?

Caveat emptor I'm afraid, but you've still got a lovely stove that'll sell well once it's been renovated - but I know you were joking, so all's well.

Kidding aside. I bought it entirely by accident and I greatly believe in the karma of these things - I am thrilled to have it. I love bringing things back from the dead - fingers crossed it goes well.
 
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Whilst ash pans are normally for MF stoves, I know of one fitted to a Contura 5L wood burning stove, and that has a riddling grate as well. But looking at the runners picture, as the plate above it is closed, and looks to go full length of the base, they may be there to store an accessory rather than for an ash pan. WD40 frequently on the nuts for a couple of days to see if they'll loosen. Make sure you have a tight fitting adjustable spanner on them so that they don't round off, and apply heat to the nut using a blowtorch if all else fails.
 
Will write longer reply when not on phone,
Full size tin plate under stove for heat shield.
Only use Hex shape wrench or socket Usually 10mm on your stove and should be bolts and not nuts unless its been got at before?

Please post pics of all parts inside, there should be 5.and of rear of stove far enough away to see the whole of it, looks like a crack but may be a rust stain?
litl
 
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Your missing the top baffle plate which sits on top of the back plate .it has an oblong cut out that engages in the top of backplate so the gasses are guided to the rear flue pipe when that is used instead of the one in the top .

litl
 
Thanks that's good to know, - I will check out the explored diagram.

BTW has spraying WD40 on rusty pins, screws and bolts ever worked for anyone, or is just aspirational?
 
Thanks that's good to know, - I will check out the explored diagram.

BTW has spraying WD40 on rusty pins, screws and bolts ever worked for anyone, or is just aspirational?
One of the other problems beside rust is the friction between the bolt head and the lugs caused by stresses of warping plates and rust between plates and fire cement .
I dont rate wd so soak in plusgas for as long as you can afford but I end up drilling and retapping in over 75 percent of all cases...never use an easy out or you could make a panel virtually unusable .
 
Now I have a larger screen I can see the runners that are part of the heat shield, did I notice a spark guard in your pics? if so see if it will slide onto them to store when not in use?
litl
 
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I dont rate wd so soak in plusgas for as long as you can afford but I end up drilling and retapping in over 75 percent of all cases...never use an easy out or you could make a panel virtually unusable .

Will give the plusgas a go - drilling and retap requires a bench drill press, right?

Its not something I have every done, is it easy to pick up?
 
Your missing the top baffle plate which sits on top of the back plate .it has an oblong cut out that engages in the top of backplate so the gasses are guided to the rear flue pipe when that is used instead of the one in the top .

Intersting point here LIS; would the stove draw better if the top exit was used rather than the rear.
 
Intersting point here LIS; would the stove draw better if the top exit was used rather than the rear.
Yes much better especially if one has a poor draw but if rear outlet is used the stove may give more heat as the gasses are held in for longer?
litl
 
Will give the plusgas a go - drilling and retap requires a bench drill press, right?

Its not something I have every done, is it easy to pick up?
How accuarate a hole is drilled in a press on depends on propping curved pannel so the broken bolt is perfectly upright which is a skill in itself. The bolt will be 6mm dia with a .5 pitch so the final hole after pilots would be 5mm . you may find at 4mm the thread starts to wind on in which is great , left hand fluted drill is handy here.The thread would not be to the bottom of the case thread so the pilot can jam as it breaks through so care is needed there as drills ofter break it this point.
I grind the stud flush and flat with the case so its shape is clearly defind, the lighty pop with a centre punch at what looks like the centre.If it then looks off, hold the punch at a flatter angle pointing towards the wider side and tap to move the pop over until your happy ..you can do the same as you start to drill the pilot.
I cant say how easy it is to pick up but you could practice buy cutting some bolts up to 10mm long, place in vice, drill and see if you exit in the centre the other end.
If the bolt shears proud of the casing ,I have had some success by mig welding a thin nut or plate with hole through on to the stud .
litl
 
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