Buying a stove by accident

[rkinsella]

So I bought a stove by accident. I have been drooling over Jotul stoves for some time - but they are a bit out of my price range. We are planning a significant house extension in the next two or three years, so one that would fit the new space would be good.

So one in need of repair came up on a local 'free ad's' website - and I put an offer on it and thought that I was unlikely to get it, I promptly forgot about the whole thing. Out of the blue - a couple of weeks later I was the (delighted) proud owner of a Jotul F3. Its huge - it can heat 1300sq feet, you can see the stove here.

Now the repair ...

Unfortunately the stove was left outside .
So there is a fine glow of rust off her, particularly the internal pieces.

Before I do anything else - I want to stop the rust from doing any more damage.
Was thinking wire brush and WD40 - any tips would be welcome?

Ray K

 

[Burnerman]

These things are largely cast iron Ray, so the rust will be superficial. A wire brush is a good move, and stove manufacturers do provide a heat proof spray paint to re coat. Internal rust will go as the stove is used.
Its not a bad idea to fire it up outside before you install though, just to avoid the pong! Are the firebrick (vermiculite) cheeks in good nick, inside?
John

 

[Tigercubrider]

I would email the manufacturer ?

Wd40 is probably ok but the stove will absorb it and potentially smoke when heated

 

[Doggit]

It's cast iron, and as long as the rust hasn't penetrated anywhere and left holes, then you should be fine. You'll only want the WD40 on the hinges though, not the stove itself. You'll very likely need some new rope for the door seals, but I don't think there is any vermiculite or fire brick on this type of stove, so you'll want it well away from any surfaces, flammable or otherwise. But the other side of this issue, is that you'll need to get a very high tempreature stove paint, rather than the more common 600C, as it'll burn a lot hoter than normal when it gets going.

 

[rkinsella]

Are the firebrick (vermiculite) cheeks in good nick, inside?

No sign of fire brick, have already identified a missing ash pan.

It's cast iron, and as long as the rust hasn't penetrated anywhere and left holes, then you should be fine.

It hasn't rusted through anywhere, the main sections don't appear to be too bad but there is still a fine glow of rust there. There are a few springs, hinges and screws that look pretty bad all the same - the will need a much closer look. I will get decent photos tomorrow.

But the other side of this issue, is that you'll need to get a very high tempreature stove paint, rather than the more common 600C, as it'll burn a lot hoter than normal when it gets going.

Good tip - I want to try to get the original paint - anyone speak Norwegian ? The exterior pain work has a few spots of rust but is more dirty than rusty - hopefully a bit of touching up will cover it.

 

[Doggit]

Not sure how far you're prepared to go, but sand blasting the outside (diy kit and a compressor) might be a good idea. Personally, I wouldn't bother too much with the inside though as the fire will burn off the rust soon enough.

Have a chat with these guys to get spares for the Jotul

 

[foxhole]

Nothing special about the original paint-- unless it's not a black one?

 

[Burnerman]

I've used genuine Morso paint before, and to its credit its stayed on - but the pong was incredible for the first couple of firings, hence the thought of firing it outside.
I guess the stove has fire bars operated by an external riddling lever? Remove them for cleaning but keep them in order!
Another point - there's sure to be a baffle plate in the top of the stove - see that its not too badly distorted, and its easy to remove....that's where all the crap from the flue lands.
John

 

[rkinsella]

Some photos as promised!

No obvious code etc to identify it.

Nothing that looks like any of the advice anyway.

 

[foxhole]

Looks like a date of 1965? so quite ancient.

 

[rkinsella]

Think that is an 85 at the end - didn't twig that as the manufacture date, but it would make sense.
I have no idea as to the heritage of this thing.

That would be consistent with this diagram from Jotul US.
Which say its 1983-88 - I dismissed it initially, but the diagram looks right.

There is a user manual here, with some information in it.

 

[Burnerman]

As the stove seems to have a flat bottom, and no fire bars, its for wood use only - not multifuel.
It looks in good nick though! Have you considered the modern day equivalent of stove black lead polish, rather than a complete spray?
John

 

[rkinsella]

As the stove seems to have a flat bottom, and no fire bars, its for wood use only - not multifuel.

Apologies - I don't quiet follow that why does bar = multifuel.

I live in the woods , so wood only is fine - but it would be good to understand.

 

[Burnerman]

Its not a good move to burn coal or whatever on the stove bottom as it can (theoretically) burn through so kosher multifuel stoves have fire bars or a grate that burns the fuel above the ash tray - and they may need replacing from time to time.
I use a mixture of whatever timber I can scrounge (usually poplar just now) and I help it along by burning smokeless ovoids (looks like compressed coal dust to me) at around £8 per 25kg bag.
John

 

[rkinsella]

Its not a good move to burn coal or whatever on the stove bottom as it can (theoretically) burn through so kosher multifuel stoves have fire bars or a grate that burns the fuel above the ash tray - and they may need replacing from time to time.

Makes perfect sense. The Stanley N.O. 8 I restored has this, I had to replace it as the ar*e was burnt out of it from the previous owner letting ash build up in the ash pan.

I use a mixture of whatever timber I can scrounge (usually poplar just now) and I help it along by burning smokeless ovoids (looks like compressed coal dust to me) at around £8 per 25kg bag.

I use a similar mix including the ovoids - with turf usually, but not always - as I live near a number of bogs.

Have you considered the modern day equivalent of stove black lead polish, rather than a complete spray?

I used this on the Stanley in the past, to good effect. However the Jotul is gray (not black) and there are a couple of spots of rust that are quiet bad, I am not sure it would cover.

Will get a photo of the ash lip - you will see what I mean.

Ray K