Hive wiring for a logic 30 Combi

The old stat has to go.

In fact, I assumed that it already had gone, and that the Brown, Black and Grey wires shown connected to the Hive backplate were those that used to be inserted in the old thermostat terminals 1, 2 & 3. They should be, regardless of which method of installation is used.
 
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Got it buddy thanks.
I disconnected old stat at boiler marked room stat ran two cables from there to common and heating on terminals on hive and also from L N and E and it's working perfect thanks again for all your help
 
Got it buddy thanks.
I disconnected old stat at boiler marked room stat ran two cables from there to common and heating on terminals on hive and also from L N and E and it's working perfect thanks again for all your help

Hi, can you explan how you ran the 2 cables from the heating terminals on the boiler to the hive control box?

also, does this mean you now have the control box and the new hive thermostat located next to each other on the wall?

thanks
Craig.
 
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Hi mate you open up your boiler there is a L N and E supply going to it so u run a wire from each Into the matching connectors on hive control box. I then disconnected pre existing thermostat from the connector block marked room stat. These were a black and grey cable. I then ran a cable from the the 2 parts marked room stat to the hive box one goes to the common and one to the heating on. Hope this helps
 
so you installed the hive receiver with backplate at the boiler and NOT at the thermostat?
 
Sorry mate not sure how to send images in private chat. You take one wire to the common and one wire to the heating on connector on hive box. First pic shows remove the the black and grey wire and run your wires from there to hive box. Second pic shows what terminals on hive box to use
 

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so you installed the hive receiver with backplate at the boiler and NOT at the thermostat?
Yeah mate my hive receiver box is just on wall beside boiler and I blanked off old thermostat which was in my hallway. Hive thermostat is wireless so is not currently mounted anywhere
 
ah.. I'm trying to run it directly from the thermostat (ie use the wires and make the old thermostat redundant.. however, I only have 2 wires (Live and Y1)
 
The existing two wires at the thermostat would connect to the Hive as follows: The wire in Live to Hive terminal (1) 'common' and the wire in Y1 to Hive terminal (3) 'heating on'

Then you need to run a new 230V supply to the Hive L & N to power it. This should come from the same fused spur that supplies the boiler.

If you have any existing time control elsewhere, then you will need to set it to be permanently 'on' otherwise it will override the Hive. If your previous thermostat also provided time control and you don't have a separate timeswitch you can ignore this.
 
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The existing two wires at the thermostat would connect to the Hive as follows: The wire in Live to Hive terminal (1) 'common' and the wire in Y1 to Hive terminal (3) 'heating on'

Then you need to run a new 230V supply to the Hive L & N to power it. This should come from the same fused spur that supplies the boiler.

If you have any existing time control elsewhere, then you will need to set it to be permanently 'on' otherwise it will override the Hive. If your previous thermostat also provided time control you can ignore this.

ok, I understand, so to confirm if I just replace the existing thermostat with the hive receiver I would need to somehow get 240v to it?
 
Correct the Hive needs 230V to operate it. I would guess that you presently have probably a mechanical Siemens thermostat that doesn't need power to operate it. So you will just have the switching wires present.
 
Correct the Hive needs 230V to operate it. I would guess that you presently have probably a mechanical Siemens thermostat that doesn't need power to operate it. So you will just have the switching wires present.

yes that's correct.. would I be best just installing the hive receiver at the boiler instead?
 
yes that's correct.. would I be best just installing the hive receiver at the boiler instead?
It saves the hassle of running a 230v supply and you dont really need to access it for anything once installed. Aslong as you will get good Wi-Fi signal between that and the hub it will be fine
 

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