Electric chainsaw?

[Ian H]

I just cut a load of trees that were overhanging my garden. Some of the trunks are pretty big and it's going to kill me with a bow saw.

Are the electric chainsaws any good?

My neighbour lent me a small one on a pole and that seemed good so I thought of getting a bigger one to finish off the stuff that's now on the ground.

Any recommendations? Thanks

 

[SFK]

Ian,
For me I prefer using a reciprocating-saw over a electric chain saw if the trees are not too big (ie less than 30cm dia). This is simply because I found the electric chain limited in its use, but the reciprocating-saw can be used more often in other applications:
https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/reciprocating-saws/cat830862#_=p
use good blades:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-s1531l-reciprocating-saw-blades-wood-240mm-5-pack/71339

Otherwise I would then get a Petrol Chain saw rather electric than so I could use it away from mains.
SFK

 

[Ian H]

Thanks, the first one on your link says it will do 300mm wood which sounds about right. Do you think the blades will be ok in such new wood?

 

[SFK]

Ian,
1) I have used three brands of the Reciprocating Saws (all the cheap end, £50 to £140) and they will all call cut through any thickness if the blades are good and long enough.But it is slower than a chain saw.
2) I have had no issue going through 40cm green trunks (noting that I tended to take top off tree first and then drop lower trunk section section last).
3) I always use the Bosch blades.
4) The issue is that the longest blade I have used/seen is 24cm, so it takes longer than using a chain saw as you have to consider and do the multiple cuts (and this then gets more dangerous as 40cm trees are dangerously heavy).
5) But I have felt safer with a Rec Saw than a chain saw when up a tree.
6) But Rec saws are much slower than a Chain Saw.

So in conclusion, if you have lots of 40cm trees, get a chain saw, checking in advance that new chains are easily available.

If a one off or occasional job, I personally like the Rec saw as I can use it all the time on other projects (DIY, demolition, medium tree pruning etc).
Looking at Screwfix, do not get the cheapest electric chain saw as too many give it one star (I did consider this saw). Instead look at the £140? Makita chainsaw.

And if you do get a Rec saw, throw away the blades it comes with and buy the good ones (I again recommend the Bosch ones).

SFK

 

[lostinthelight]

View attachment 141826 View attachment 141826 Makita chainsaw..brilliant bit of kit. Ive cut 10’s of tons of firewood over the last 10 years ive owned one and no fumes in the barn.
litl

 

[Burnerman]

That would be my choice if I wanted one, tough as hell and reliable.
Worth finding out how to sharpen the chain, and regularly give it an extra shot of oil.
John

 

[Ian H]

After sleeping on it I've decided to start with the reciprocating saw but also to keep an eye out for a used chainsaw.

Although the trees are not mine they are not maintained in anyway so I might jump over and lob off a decent sized branch each week until I get some light back. There are huge trees left and right of the picture that are too close to the wall, I started hacking because the ones to the left reached over my roof.

 

[opps]

Would an alligator saw be better suited than a reciprocating saw?

just wondering...

 

[ellal]

I've had a couple of similar jobs to do, but as it is only occasional (diy) work I got the Titan electric chainsaw ( https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb355chn-2000w-230v-corded-40-5cm-electric-chainsaw/92771 ) for the larger logs. Quieter than petrol / less convenient of course but 'horses for courses'! I use my (again Titan) reciprocating saw for some of the smaller ones, but as has been mentioned new wood can be a problem for the latter.

Opinions differ of course, But imo both Titans are pretty good for cheaper models / diy work.

I'd also recommend getting one of these https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p47312
Surprisingly more sturdy than it looks and, unlike the screwfix Oregon one it doesn't have a top bar. So you don't have to keep moving the logs to cut, as after you have cut the ends you can cut between the frame uprights.

But the smaller the branches get, the more they tend to 'jump'.
So I use one of these ( https://woodsmithexperience.co.uk/shop/product/morris-newtown-billhook/ ) to chop them on either a tree stump/log or on a longer bit of substantial trunk sunk into the ground - much better for the back!
(Also good for many a trimming job around the place)

 

[Ian H]

I get a voucher from Screwfix every now and then, the last was £12 off £50 so that would be ideal for that chainsaw.

I think I'd loose a thumb if I had a go with the knife you linked

 

[StephenOak]

Would an alligator saw be better suited than a reciprocating saw?

I have one (which I don't use now as I have a chainsaw), I wrote about it here
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/...r-smaller-branches.481334/page-2#post-3893857

I don't have a reciprocating saw but I have seen one in use. If I knew then what I know now, I would have got a reciprocating saw rather than an Alligator:
- Not as limited in thickness it can deal with
- More generally useful

 

[blup]

Another vote for Makita, I have the Makita UC4051A 2000w Electric Chainsaw 40cm 240v but discarded the anti kick back chain they supply as it was slow cutting and went blunt at the slightest hint of grit or dirt/sand in the trunk; for my purposes the metal was too soft to take and hold an edge when re sharpening.

Although Makita don't recommend using different chains, I replaced it with the "Oregon 91VXL 3/8" x .050" (1.3mm) - SELECT CHAIN LENGTH : 56 Drive Links" which made a very significant difference to cutting speed and longevity of the teeth. I used saw and chain to fell and section reasonably big conifers (12" trunk).

I am not sure I would use a reciprocating saw up a tree, but as an alternative would suggest this pruning saw for removing branches up to 3/4" thick - it is amazingly sharp:

Silky Zubat 330mm Saw.

Cheers,

Blup

 

[StephenOak]

I am not sure I would use a reciprocating saw up a tree, but as an alternative would suggest this pruning saw for removing branches up to 3/4" thick - it is amazingly sharp:

Silky Zubat 330mm Saw.

I don't have a Silky but something similar from Gardena. I have this which I think has been superseded by this.

Whilst searching for a picture I came across it cheaper (and more expensive) on Ebay.

It is part of their Combisystem, so you buy tools & handles separately, more tools than handles. Some tools can only be used with a handle, this can be be used on its own or with a handle.

I have the 1300 mm & 1500 mm handles and have used it to cut branches a lot thicker than three-quarters of an inch (or was that meant to be 3 to 4 inches?) from the ground. I also have a shorter handle (just under 800mm) and have used the saw with that on top of a ladder, to cut a number of branches w/o having to move the ladder.

 

[opps]

I have one (which I don't use now as I have a chainsaw), I wrote about it here
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/...r-smaller-branches.481334/page-2#post-3893857

I don't have a reciprocating saw but I have seen one in use. If I knew then what I know now, I would have got a reciprocating saw rather than an Alligator:
- Not as limited in thickness it can deal with
- More generally useful

Thanks, I was however thinking of the Dewalt type of aligator saw

 

[StephenOak]

@opps

Thanks for the clarification. That is, IMO, a replacement for a chainsaw rather than a reciprocating saw. It is the price of an expensive chainsaw and three times the price of a modest reciprocating saw.

Also, when cutting 300mm diameter wood isn't it rather a sledgehammer to crack a nut?