Electric chainsaw?

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An Alligator saw (which has moving teeth) is not the same as a Scorpion Saw (which has a moving blade like a replicating saw).

Also From experience, do not buy a Scorpion Saw over a replicating saw.

Scorpion Saws cannot cope with continuous use (they overheat), Scorpion Saws blades are expensive and Scorpion Saws are only a little cheaper than a budget replicating saw.

SFK
 
I would go for a leccy chainsaw.

I bought the Titan chainsaw for cutting hardwood boards at work. Its a great saw, with a clutch so when you release the handle the chain stops instantly, but the motor slows down normally

Bear in mind it is a budget saw with plastic parts- Im on the 2nd one at work, the first one wore out the spocket and bar tensioning, but it did do about 3 years of work in a joinery company, so for DIY use I would say it would be fine for years.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb355chn-2000w-230v-corded-40-5cm-electric-chainsaw/92771

personally I would think a recip saw painfully slow -I tried one for cutting up logs etc and found it bounced around too much.
 
YOLO
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Expect to see a detailed review of which works best for you.
And a flat empty wasteland over the wall.

(did you get some new blades for the Rep Saw as the ones they come with are not very good).
SFK
 
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An Alligator saw (which has moving teeth) is not the same as a Scorpion Saw (which has a moving blade like a replicating saw).

Also From experience, do not buy a Scorpion Saw over a replicating saw.

Scorpion Saws cannot cope with continuous use (they overheat), Scorpion Saws blades are expensive and Scorpion Saws are only a little cheaper than a budget replicating saw.

SFK

Thanks, I hadn't noticed that the Black and Decker isn't an alligator.
 
I've had a go of the chainsaw and love it :). I chopped a few small ones first then a big one over the wall, I can see a bit of sky through there now.

The chainsaw needs the chain and blade? attaching and then filling with oil before you use it. The closer you have it to the wood the smoother it cuts.

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I need to work on my technique now.
 
It wont be long before you need a round chain file.

Just a round file with a handle is enough. Do the same number of strokes on each tooth for an even grind.

Make sure you use some oil in the chainsaw. The proper chain oil is best, but I use a bit of engine oil TBH. If you run it dry the chain and bar will wear quickly.

Never allow the chain to touch the ground -ie dont cut branches direct on ground - soil will blunten chain proper quick.
 
When you buy a sharpening tool (beit file or electric grindstone) also buy a 'Chain Depth Gauge' and a fine flat file. Check the height of the 'shark fin' (in front of the cutter tooth) after every 5 sharpen - file the shark fin to the height of the depth gauge as necessary; if you don't eventually the chain will take ages to cut and will only produce dust and heat. The handbook will tell which depth gauge size you need.

The web has useful pages on sharpening a chain and will explain all.
 

I guy half through that then pull it into our garden. Managed to fall over when it went :LOL::LOL:
 
I've had a go of the chainsaw and love it :). I chopped a few small ones first then a big one over the wall, I can see a bit of sky through there now.

The chainsaw needs the chain and blade? attaching and then filling with oil before you use it. The closer you have it to the wood the smoother it cuts.


I need to work on my technique now.
The saw always cuts better if the wood is against the teeth on the front of the saw body.
I can see from your pictures your not putting a sink , aka gob cut, before cutting the tree/branch off which should help with tearing but you look to be having fun?
litl
 
I'm having great fun!! But I will take your advice and see if I can do it better :)

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