Kitchen units in garage

[MidsTW]

So I am attempting to make a nicer area of the garage with 2 appliances, 2 base units and a worktop. Potentially adding a wall unit too.

This is what I have so far... pic below...
I have made a bit of a stud wall to space the units out so I have a nice flat rear panel.

Question is what to use to clad the back panel. I don’t want to bother with plasterboard/plastering. I was thinking 9mm ply. But obviously all the screws will be visible.

Any other ideas?

 

[foxhole]

Uvpc cladding? though plasterboard is cheapest, you don’t have to skim , screw holes can just be filled then painted.If you want to fix any shelves or upper cupboards put a thin sheet of osb behind to aid fixings.

 

[JohnD]

ply is very suitable and you can hang wall cabs (or, better, hanging rail) on it.

if you have a dislike of screwheads you can use filler and paint.

It would do no harm to add a horizontal weight-bearing timber to your framework to correspond with wall hangers.

 

[MidsTW]

Torn between the 3 atm.. UPVC sounds good and will look great, bit worried about putting sockets through it. And would probably need to fit wall units before the cladding.

Plasterboard I was a bit worried about dampness and does it paint well?

 

[foxhole]

Plasterboard paints fine , been used like that over 100 years .
You need a sheet of osb behind whatever you fit to take the upper cupboard brackets .
If garage is damp it will destroy the units and any worktop .

 

[MidsTW]

Plasterboard paints fine , been used like that over 100 years .
You need a sheet of osb behind whatever you fit to take the upper cupboard brackets .
If garage is damp it will destroy the units and any worktop .

Good point.. it won’t be that damp, it’s a new build so relatively well constructed.
I was hoping that I’d positioned the studs in the right place to take the cupboard but I will use some osb/ply if I go with plasterboard anyway.

 

[Notch7]

plywood can be fixed with tongue tite screws -tiny heads that can easily be filled

https://www.toolstation.com/tongue-tite-torx-screw/p49111

 

[MidsTW]

They look good, I might not bother filling them if they don’t look too much of an eye sore...

 

[foxhole]

They look good, I might not bother filling them if they don’t look too much of an eye sore...

You would need to be careful when tightening or they will go straight thru thin ply.

 

[MidsTW]

You would need to be careful when tightening or they will go straight thru thin ply.

Planning to use 9mm, would that suffice?

 

[big-all]

at what looks like 500 centres i would go for 12mm exteriour ply

 

[JohnD]

ordinary CSK would pull themselves in, flush with the surface, and be stronger. you may have to tinker with the torque setting on a trial run to get it right.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

For that matter so will bugle-headed drywall screws providing they are spun fast enough (2500 to 4000 rpm). We often use them for plywood floor cladding from 6mm to 18mm beneath vinyl/Altro/Karndean, etc. In the absence of a drywall screw gun for consistent countersinking results they need to be used with a cheap drywall screw adaptor (available from loads of places)

 

[HH1]

How about a "French Cleat" style of mounting?
Visible screw head problem solved.