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Kitchen units in garage

Discussion in 'Wood / Woodwork / Carpentry' started by StEng24, 19 Mar 2019.

  1. StEng24

    StEng24

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    So I am attempting to make a nicer area of the garage with 2 appliances, 2 base units and a worktop. Potentially adding a wall unit too.

    This is what I have so far... pic below...
    I have made a bit of a stud wall to space the units out so I have a nice flat rear panel.

    Question is what to use to clad the back panel. I don’t want to bother with plasterboard/plastering. I was thinking 9mm ply. But obviously all the screws will be visible.

    Any other ideas?

    1F918C8C-AFFA-4847-8FA7-2D35A70DD48F.jpeg
     
  2. foxhole

    foxhole

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    Uvpc cladding? though plasterboard is cheapest, you don’t have to skim , screw holes can just be filled then painted.If you want to fix any shelves or upper cupboards put a thin sheet of osb behind to aid fixings.
     
    Last edited: 19 Mar 2019
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  3. JohnD

    JohnD

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    ply is very suitable and you can hang wall cabs (or, better, hanging rail) on it.

    if you have a dislike of screwheads you can use filler and paint.

    It would do no harm to add a horizontal weight-bearing timber to your framework to correspond with wall hangers.
     
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  4. StEng24

    StEng24

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    Torn between the 3 atm.. UPVC sounds good and will look great, bit worried about putting sockets through it. And would probably need to fit wall units before the cladding.

    Plasterboard I was a bit worried about dampness and does it paint well?
     
  5. foxhole

    foxhole

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    Plasterboard paints fine , been used like that over 100 years .
    You need a sheet of osb behind whatever you fit to take the upper cupboard brackets .
    If garage is damp it will destroy the units and any worktop .
     
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  6. StEng24

    StEng24

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    Good point.. it won’t be that damp, it’s a new build so relatively well constructed.
    I was hoping that I’d positioned the studs in the right place to take the cupboard but I will use some osb/ply if I go with plasterboard anyway.
     
  7. Notch7

    Notch7

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  8. StEng24

    StEng24

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    They look good, I might not bother filling them if they don’t look too much of an eye sore...
     
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  10. foxhole

    foxhole

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    You would need to be careful when tightening or they will go straight thru thin ply.
     
  11. StEng24

    StEng24

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    Planning to use 9mm, would that suffice?
     
  12. big-all

    big-all

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    at what looks like 500 centres i would go for 12mm exteriour ply
     
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  13. JohnD

    JohnD

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    ordinary CSK would pull themselves in, flush with the surface, and be stronger. you may have to tinker with the torque setting on a trial run to get it right.
     
  14. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    For that matter so will bugle-headed drywall screws providing they are spun fast enough (2500 to 4000 rpm). We often use them for plywood floor cladding from 6mm to 18mm beneath vinyl/Altro/Karndean, etc. In the absence of a drywall screw gun for consistent countersinking results they need to be used with a cheap drywall screw adaptor (available from loads of places)
     
  15. HH1

    HH1

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    How about a "French Cleat" style of mounting?
    Visible screw head problem solved.
     
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