Vertical radiator loosing heat

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No balancing is about flow this sounds like air getting in. Which is about pressure issues or corrosion. With inhibitor it must be pressure issues.
When the system is fully cold does the pressure drop sharply? That would indicate too much air in the expansion vessel. When you try to bleed it is the system warm at all or do you bleed it stone cold?
 
No balancing is about flow this sounds like air getting in. Which is about pressure issues or corrosion. With inhibitor it must be pressure issues.
When the system is fully cold does the pressure drop sharply? That would indicate too much air in the expansion vessel. When you try to bleed it is the system warm at all or do you bleed it stone cold?

the pressure remains steady around 1.6.

I bled it when its warm as that when I notice it isn’t hot like the others. But there’s no air coming out.

I bleed and let the water out in small amounts for about 10 secs and then it heats up fully. The rad has fours panels and the flow side always gets hot but not the other 3 panels unless I bleed out some water.
 
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Just looked at the valves on the vertical rad and both valves are fully open.

all the other radiators lockshields are only open about half a turn.

Should the lockshield on the vertical rad which is the last rad / at highest point be fully opened or partially open?
 
Does the radiator stay *hot* after you've bled some water through it, or does it slowly cool down again?
Sounds like one side of the rad is heating from convection, and bleeding it just lets some more hot water through.

Are you absolutely sure that both valves are open, and that water is circulating through the rad *after* you've let some water out?

Does the return valve get warm at all?
 
Does the radiator stay *hot* after you've bled some water through it, or does it slowly cool down again?
Sounds like one side of the rad is heating from convection, and bleeding it just lets some more hot water through.

Are you absolutely sure that both valves are open, and that water is circulating through the rad *after* you've let some water out?

Does the return valve get warm at all?

the rad does stay hot... for about a week. The return valves is hot but not as hot as the flow. Both valves are fully open.
 
Turn other rads off, one at a time and leave for 10/20mins before turning off another one. See if this encourages flow through the vertical rad.

If not then...

Take the rad off and connect the valves together using a length of barrier (plastic) pipe, with inserts nuts and olives.

See if you get decent flow through it.

Report back with findings.
 
yes. This does help the vertical

Then just balance the system properly.
Close all rads except vertical rad and then crack open lockshields on other rads until they get hot... Some will only need an 8th of a turn open.
If the vertical rad goes cold again after this, then you need to start looking at pump head and other issues... Piping perhaps.

But try accurate balancing first.
 
Then just balance the system properly.
Close all rads except vertical rad and then crack open lockshields on other rads until they get hot... Some will only need an 8th of a turn open.
If the vertical rad goes cold again after this, then you need to start looking at pump head and other issues... Piping perhaps.

But try accurate balancing first.

thanks will do. Should both valves be fully open on the vertical?
 
Whats the pumps head rating in the boiler. It might not be powerful enough to from ground floor to loft.
The vertical distance between the ground floor and loft is irrelevant; a pump's "head" is just a way of measuring the pressure the pump produces.
 

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