How wide can joints be in mortar for dwarf wall greenhouse

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Thanks for that for the life of me I couldn't remember how you did it !
 
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We ran out of sand on this job around the corner, so we improvised. I've not had any complaints, and the bloke there likes wearing jumpers anyway.

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hi how wide can the joints, be for a greenhouse build I know it says 10mm for load bearing structures ,but is there any leeway on this, as I have seen old houses with wider joint than 10 mm!
Wide joint = Christmas joint - cuz you have a big joint @ Xmas.
 
You'd be far better as a first timer just cutting a few bricks, you won't need to worry about the joint size, just get them fairly even - measure the first at 10mm and refer back as a visual guide for the rest.
I've cut the bricks on one side of my extension - it makes it easier because any difference along the course in joint/brick size can be taken up by slightly different sized cuts, most are between 17-18cm:
IMG_20200714_170155085.jpg


The other wall is exact bricks length - but I'm always a few mm over or under at the end so it's messing about pushing/pulling the last half a dozen to get them looking ok.

For a course of 20 bricks you should really work to a line, it's as simple as this:
IMG_20200714_170356083.jpg


Set the first brick, transfer the level to the last brick on the other end (spirit level on a straight edge, depending on length you'll probably have to do it in two goes), pull a taut line between the two and off you go.
The proper way to do the beds is to draw the point of the trowel down the middle, cut the excess off the side, butter up your ends etc like on YouTube but you're not a bricky so just get it on however you can and work to the line (as close as you can with the top front of the brick without touching it) - push the brick on firmly, if it's low take it off and add some more mortar, if it's high you can try and tap it down a LITTLE bit with a hammer, otherwise take a bit of mortar out. Don't worry about bits with missing mortar, you'll fill those in when you joint up at the end - just focus on getting that course of bricks on, keep working the mortar and mix in small batches as it'll be going off at the speed you'll be working at.
 
You'd be far better as a first timer just cutting a few bricks, you won't need to worry about the joint size, just get them fairly even - measure the first at 10mm and refer back as a visual guide for the rest.
I've cut the bricks on one side of my extension - it makes it easier because any difference along the course in joint/brick size can be taken up by slightly different sized cuts, most are between 17-18cm:
View attachment 198980

The other wall is exact bricks length - but I'm always a few mm over or under at the end so it's messing about pushing/pulling the last half a dozen to get them looking ok.

For a course of 20 bricks you should really work to a line, it's as simple as this:
View attachment 198981

Set the first brick, transfer the level to the last brick on the other end (spirit level on a straight edge, depending on length you'll probably have to do it in two goes), pull a taut line between the two and off you go.
The proper way to do the beds is to draw the point of the trowel down the middle, cut the excess off the side, butter up your ends etc like on YouTube but you're not a bricky so just get it on however you can and work to the line (as close as you can with the top front of the brick without touching it) - push the brick on firmly, if it's low take it off and add some more mortar, if it's high you can try and tap it down a LITTLE bit with a hammer, otherwise take a bit of mortar out. Don't worry about bits with missing mortar, you'll fill those in when you joint up at the end - just focus on getting that course of bricks on, keep working the mortar and mix in small batches as it'll be going off at the speed you'll be working at.

How much mortar mix would you recommend making up,I know I'm being a little ambitious doing this but I think I can pull it off! thanks for the advice!
 
I use 4 of these sand and 1 cement, it's about 7.5 litres, does about 25 bricks and at my snails pace the bit that's left either goes in the next mix or has firmed up enough for jointing after a tea break. I mix it with a paddle mixer in a flexi tub, far better than a mixer for small amounts.

IMG_20200714_195553439.jpg


IMG_20200710_111405641.jpg
 
I use 4 of these sand and 1 cement, it's about 7.5 litres, does about 25 bricks and at my snails pace the bit that's left either goes in the next mix or has firmed up enough for jointing after a tea break. I mix it with a paddle mixer in a flexi tub, far better than a mixer for small amounts.

View attachment 199002

View attachment 199003
Is that cement mixer electric or battery more info?
 
Paddle mixers are normally electric however if you have a decent electric drill you can use that attached to a whisk

You can use a battery drill but it will need to be a decent one
 
I use 4 of these sand and 1 cement, it's about 7.5 litres, does about 25 bricks and at my snails pace the bit that's left either goes in the next mix or has firmed up enough for jointing after a tea break. I mix it with a paddle mixer in a flexi tub, far better than a mixer for small amounts.

View attachment 199002

View attachment 199003
what type paddle mixer would you recommend ,wattage etc?
 
I use 4 of these sand and 1 cement, it's about 7.5 litres, does about 25 bricks and at my snails pace the bit that's left either goes in the next mix or has firmed up enough for jointing after a tea break. I mix it with a paddle mixer in a flexi tub, far better than a mixer for small amounts.

View attachment 199002

View attachment 199003
Is that the consistency I should be looking first three were put on with mix that was a little dry if yours is anything to go by! Might take em of and do again!
 
Trial and error, or experience I'm afraid -depends on the weather, the bricks, how quickly you lay them etc. I usually find wetter is better (but not slopping off your trowel or all over the faces of the bricks) - gives you a bit more scope for adjustment. And although you shouldn't, for what you're building you can get away with mixing in a bit more water if it starts going off.
 

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