Foul smell in bathroom since Durgo valve installed

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Hello

My soil vent pipe used to go through the roof and the lead had corroded - the roofer suggested an AAV and slate over the hole. I spoke with a plumber who said the same and installed a Durgo valve as per the attached photos. Problem is, we are now getting foul smells in the bathroom, mainly from the sink.

The bath, toilet, sink and shower all drain in the one soil pipe under the bathroom floor.

Now I am not sure what to do (or what conversation to have with the plumber and roofer). Is the Durgo just not suitable? Is it too low on the pipe (I have marked the approx. height of the sink as it is the highest point)? Should I just go back to an open vent pipe as high as the other one through the roof?

I can't dog-leg around the eaves as it needs to be too high as it is close to the window and can't be supported, I've been told.

I know I can dog-leg off to the left to try and get it more than 3m from the window and then go around the eaves but I think it will look pretty awful. Also and I am not absolutely sure I will get the 3m in with the angle and gap - it will need to be above the apex of the outhouse roof.

I have read done some Googling and reading but I don't really understand what the cause it.

Thanks in advance,
Darren
 

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Thanks Andy, I was told that it would lack support because so much would be above the level of the guttering (I guess about 1.2m), but maybe the join in the elbow will hold it firm enough? I really don't know much about drainage sorry.
 
Get a bracket fixed to the rafter.

Or fit a section of timber in between the rafters and fit a bracket.

Andy
 
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Too many 'Plumbers/Builders' happy to remove open vents and replace with AAV's with little understanding of the potential consequences. Drains need to breathe, fitting a Durgo where the stack was previously vented, removes that ability to breathe and this is often the result. Positive pressure cannot escape as it did before, and looks for next easiest path, in this case, the bathroom Basin.

Simple solution would have been to replace the weathering slate, either by someone who knows what they're doing with Leadwork, or something like this, FloPlast End Ventilation Slate 55-170mm | Soil Pipe Fittings | Screwfix.com Otherwise, dogleg the vent around the eaves, using Solvent welded fittings would prevent any risk of the fittings moving, just keep the vertical section as low as possible. Provided it is clipped securely to the wall at the highest possible point, I dont think it likely to be an issue. There should be enough airflow around it to disperse any odours before they become an issue.

What has been done with the hole in the soffit where the pipe passed through originally?
 
There isn't a soffit as such, if you look under the eaves you see the felt. At the moment there is just a hole through until the roofer comes. I have included a photo to show it as best as I can.
 

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For a client I would always advise an open pipe like the original and a proper slate sealing unit.

But for myself I would take the pipe horizontally off to the left under the eaves to terminate at the end of the wall. Maybe a little unconventional but cheaper and avoids the complication of passing through the slates.
 
There isn't a soffit as such, if you look under the eaves you see the felt. At the moment there is just a hole through until the roofer comes. I have included a photo to show it as best as I can.

Given then it only needs slates removing to replace the pipe through the roof, I would get that done, using a suitable weathering slate to seal the hole as per my link above. If your Plumber/Roofer are unwilling/unable to do it then I would find someone who can. It's not a difficult job for a decent Roofer! In fact, working with slate is even easier as the Weathering Slate doesn't need to be shaped to the contours of the tiles.
 
"A decent roofer"

I once tried to find a roofer who would replace a cement fillet with proper toothed lead flashing.

Contacted about 5 or 6 and NONE of them wanted to do any leadwork !
 
I have always struggled to get roofers because it is a slate roof and I feel I am often overcharged. I had one to do a chimney a few weeks back, so hopefully....
 
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Must be lucky then as we have a Chap round this way who is excellent at Leadwork. He has occasion to advertise on Social Media and the the pictures of his work are amazing. I had already had the Flashings down on my roof by a reputable roofer, otherwise he would certainly have got the work.
 
One of the roofers who came to have a look just wanted to replace the cement fillets again.

And as the pointing on the party wall was in poor condition instead of repointing just wanted to render over the brickwork.

As I wanted to have lead flashing ( and told him ) he was of no use to me.

Whilst I appreciate his desire to do a cheap job to save me money that was not what I wanted.
 
"A decent roofer"

I once tried to find a roofer who would replace a cement fillet with proper toothed lead flashing.

Contacted about 5 or 6 and NONE of them wanted to do any leadwork !
Plumbers job, not for unskilled so called plumbers.
 
Hello

My soil vent pipe used to go through the roof and the lead had corroded - the roofer suggested an AAV and slate over the hole. I spoke with a plumber who said the same and installed a Durgo valve as per the attached photos. Problem is, we are now getting foul smells in the bathroom, mainly from the sink.

The bath, toilet, sink and shower all drain in the one soil pipe under the bathroom floor.

Now I am not sure what to do (or what conversation to have with the plumber and roofer). Is the Durgo just not suitable? Is it too low on the pipe (I have marked the approx. height of the sink as it is the highest point)? Should I just go back to an open vent pipe as high as the other one through the roof?

I can't dog-leg around the eaves as it needs to be too high as it is close to the window and can't be supported, I've been told.

I know I can dog-leg off to the left to try and get it more than 3m from the window and then go around the eaves but I think it will look pretty awful. Also and I am not absolutely sure I will get the 3m in with the angle and gap - it will need to be above the apex of the outhouse roof.

I have read done some Googling and reading but I don't really understand what the cause it.

Thanks in advance,
Darren


Whats the exact make and model of the durgo valve fitted?
 
Plumbers job, not for unskilled so called plumbers.
I believe a lot was plumber’s job back in the day, including glazing and possibly roofing? Or so my college lecturer told us. I wish I could have done lead work (n) we learnt about it in college, did an exam on it and that was it.
 

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