Remove or reduce height soil stack

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I have a soil stack in an single story extension that is in addition to the main one for the house. I believe the main stack uses the same run of pipe to get to the drain. It was originally serving a toilet, sink from kitchen. Just just the sink until new kitchen fitted then sink and dishwasher (toilet being relocated)

It did have a toilet connected, now it doesnt our kitchen is being redone and it serve only dishwasher and sink drainage.

Where it is currently located a corner pantry cupboard will be, so it's really in the way!

Would you reduce the height of it to the floor and still connect sink/dishwasher to it and then fit pantry unit over.

Or would you remove and then redo drainage for dishwasher and sink externally with their own gully then connect to drain just outside?

Here is a pic, sorry about mess!

Glxp2R4.jpg
 
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It's made to accept waste pipe, cutouts to suit size chosen.

2 Get a roofer to remove weathering slate and patch/reinstate. Or, lazily and provisionally, remove SVP and push a 110mm end plug into slate.
 
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I wouldn't use the rubber adapter internally, they're not a brilliant fit and will dislodge if there is any pressure build up in the drain underneath. It will also need to be inserted into a spigot end of a piece of 110mm pipe, if you remove the junction that is current going into the floor, and attempt to fit a stub of pipe, it is unlikely anything the socket remaining will seal again if you try and reuse it.

Can you tell what sort of collar that is at floor level? From what I can see, it may be a 110mm plastic to clayware adapter, if so, should be fairly easy to replace. (Fingers crossed.)
 
Cheers for the reply fellas. Will take a closer picture at floor level. When you refer to pressure build up, the main soil stack has a vent above the normal house roof, the soil stack I'm referring to is vented through a EDPM type flat roof. It looks like this soil stack uses the same pipework as the main stack.
 
I wouldn't use the rubber adapter internally, they're not a brilliant fit and will dislodge if there is any pressure build up in the drain underneath. It will also need to be inserted into a spigot end of a piece of 110mm pipe, if you remove the junction that is current going into the floor, and attempt to fit a stub of pipe, it is unlikely anything the socket remaining will seal again if you try and reuse it.

Can you tell what sort of collar that is at floor level? From what I can see, it may be a 110mm plastic to clayware adapter, if so, should be fairly easy to replace. (Fingers crossed.)

n78mzPm.jpg


That's the floor level does this help?

It seems plastic to me.
 
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Floorplan here with rough idea of location of stacks. The stack towards the rear of the house was serving a toilet and sink and there was a wall seperating the toilet from the kitchen that has been knocked out.
 
In normal circumstances, there shouldn't be any pressure in the drain, but problems and/or heavy rainfall can affect the system, which could cause that rubber adapter to dislodge itself and with the added possibility of backflow out into the room. A solid connector should provide a lot more defence, with the system overflowing externally first if an issue ever occurs.

When you're ready, I'd dig out the concrete around that black collar going into the floor, it needs to be replaced regardless if you want a water and air tight joint. Given the probably age of the pipework, the seals in the fittings will have hardened and once disturbed, will not work again.

If you look down the junction with the aid of a torch, you should be able to ascertain the material the pipework below is made of, and get a suitable collar to make a new joint ready. If not immediately using the drain it will need capping to prevent odours coming back up into the space above.
 
In normal circumstances, there shouldn't be any pressure in the drain, but problems and/or heavy rainfall can affect the system, which could cause that rubber adapter to dislodge itself and with the added possibility of backflow out into the room. A solid connector should provide a lot more defence, with the system overflowing externally first if an issue ever occurs.

When you're ready, I'd dig out the concrete around that black collar going into the floor, it needs to be replaced regardless if you want a water and air tight joint. Given the probably age of the pipework, the seals in the fittings will have hardened and once disturbed, will not work again.

If you look down the junction with the aid of a torch, you should be able to ascertain the material the pipework below is made of, and get a suitable collar to make a new joint ready. If not immediately using the drain it will need capping to prevent odours coming back up into the space above.

Hi thanks for the explanation, to confirm can you link online to a suitable solid connector and will that connector take sink/dishwasher waste or is it just a cap?
 
Fit a 110mm socket onto the end of the pipe coming out the floor, then fit one of these into that. 110mm Double Waste Adaptor 40mm & 40mm (plastics-express.co.uk) Connect wastes as normal, the compression joints (assuming done properly) will ensure air and water tightness, even if the pipework was to fill with water.

Thanks for that, I guess it's either this route or drill out through rear wall and have a gulley outside then connect into main drain.

If you wanted just to lose the soil stack completely if we went down that route, how would you 'block it off'?
 
Hi, I just need to ask, can I cut this soil stack down, just above where the existing connections have been made then stick a durgo on top (think they are just push fit? it needs to be out the way for a plasterer next week.
 
I have a AAV that my builder got for me, thats a durgo valve right? is it just a push fit item after the cut has been made?
 

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