Immersion heater thermal cut out how to know if installed?

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This thread brought up the question.

This
upload_2021-10-21_10-48-43.png
is given as an example of not having a thermal cut out, and it can be built into the thermostat
upload_2021-10-21_10-50-0.png
or independent and it is clear enough when either is used if in the case of the thermostat there is a reset button, but in this case upload_2021-10-21_10-52-33.png it is not reset-able so other than the part number nothing to show if it has a thermal cut out or not, there is an issue asking anyone to remove the cover on the immersion heater to check however the chances are if is does not have a thermal cut out there will be no part number which will produce results with internet hunt.

Since you can have an independent cut out, which is better when using solid fuel as common to need to reset, so want it so it can be reset without removing cover, I assume you can still get thermostats without it built in?

So how can the home owner safely find out if his system is safe? Clearly if in the loft the tank is steel or thermal setting plastic he is OK, it is only the thermal plastic tanks which are a problem, can't understand why still permitted?

But how does the home owner find if he is safe, I know I am as the cut out tripped and I had to reset, but if no reset button found, how do you know? Is there a list of part number or something?
 
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What has an immersion O/H cut out got to do with solid fuel ?
With gas, liquid or electric power the unit can be easy switched off with a thermostat.

But with solid fuel even racking out the fire it can still go over temperature and thermostats may increase or decrease output but unless burning at set rate it will often produce particular emissions if using non processed fuel like wood or coal, so only way to stop over heating is to dump hot water.

The chances of over heating when baking cakes is high, as it is oven temperature which is important.

It does not matter what heat source heats the water, if it exceeds the limit the cut out will open, even if no electrical fault, so only if only heating is electric should a non reset-able cut out be used.

However the question is not if reset-able or non-reset-able should be used, it is how one can identify is there is a cut out if no reset button can be seen?
 
With gas, liquid or electric power the unit can be easy switched off with a thermostat.

But with solid fuel even racking out the fire it can still go over temperature and thermostats may increase or decrease output but unless burning at set rate it will often produce particular emissions if using non processed fuel like wood or coal, so only way to stop over heating is to dump hot water.

The chances of over heating when baking cakes is high, as it is oven temperature which is important.

It does not matter what heat source heats the water, if it exceeds the limit the cut out will open, even if no electrical fault, so only if only heating is electric should a non reset-able cut out be used.

However the question is not if reset-able or non-reset-able should be used, it is how one can identify is there is a cut out if no reset button can be seen?
Absolute drivel even for you, a solid fuel appliance heating HW requires a pipe Thermostat that activates a pump, and pumps the excess heat to a heat dump, usually rads but can be others, an O/H stat on a solid fuel appliance is as much use as a chocolate fireguard
 
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Absolute drivel even for you, a solid fuel appliance heating HW requires a pipe Thermostat that activates a pump, and pumps the excess heat to a heat dump, usually rads but can be others, an O/H stat on a solid fuel appliance is as much use as a chocolate fireguard

Not with C Plan, no pump, on my dad's system or auto dump.
 

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