Switching fluorescent light for a normal pendant fixture

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Hi everyone..

Is this possible? I can't find anything that actually describes how to do it. I have a really unsightly fluorescent light in my utility room that I'd like to switch to a normal pendant light.. is this doable, and if so, is it a job you can DIY with some research?
 
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Yes you can remove the existing fitting and fit a pendant. You will just need to learn how and what to do. It's not that difficult.
 
Here is the thing. The basic principles of lighting wiring really aren't that complicated and really don't change that much whether the light is a traditional pendant or batten holder, a fluorescent strip or some fancy fitting.

* A switch connects/disconnects the live from the light. So the permanent live feed goes to the switch, then the switched live connection goes from the switch to the live terminal of the light and then the neutral terminal of the light connects back to the circuit neutral.
* Because we normally use multi-core cables rather than single wires for most wiring, there is normally a location where permanent live, switched live and neutral (and earths) all come together. That location may be either the light fitting, the junction box, or the switch.
* A blue or black wire is not necessarily a neutral.

Once you understand these principles you should be able to look at a lighting wiring diagram and *understand* it. And you should be able to see that the pictures you see for different types of light fitting are really the same thing electrically. I don't think doing electrics in general in a "painting by numbers" fashion is a good idea, understanding is what helps stop you screwing up.

What *DOES* change between different fittings is.

* Whether the fitting comes with a pre-fitted "loop" terminal for the permanent live or whether you have to supply your own terminal.
* How much wiring room there is.
* Where the cable entries are.

Traditional pendants are designed specifically to accommodate the normal three cables (two circuit cables and a switch drop). So the basics are accommodated pretty well but any extras can quickly start getting very cramped.

Fancy fittings are often very limited on wiring room. Metal cased class 2 fittings are particularly bad and often can only be correctly installed by fitting them with a single cable from a junction box.

Fluorescent strips usually had shedloads of wiring room and multiple cable entries. So the first course of action is to investigate the existing wiring to the fitting, does it all enter through the same hole or does it enter through multiple holes? is it wired with cables or with individual wires in conduit? Are there a normal and expected number of wires/cables connected in a normal and expected way or has someone used that nice big box for something else? Is the location where the cables enter appropriate for the new fitting?
 
Hi mate, thanks so much for such an in-depth response, I really appreciate it. Loads to think about there, you've given me a ton of info to work with. Thanks again!
 
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Easy until you meet the dreaded cheap as chips fittings from amazon with their miniscule connector block that three cables are supposed to fit into and they are usually class 2 double insulated which causes a problem keeping the integrity of the fitting.....if you have actually fitted one then you know
 
Easy until you meet the dreaded cheap as chips fittings from amazon with their miniscule connector block that three cables are supposed to fit into and they are usually class 2 double insulated which causes a problem keeping the integrity of the fitting.....if you have actually fitted one then you know
I'm not convinced expensive fittings are necessarily better :/
 
Is this possible? I can't find anything that actually describes how to do it. I have a really unsightly fluorescent light in my utility room that I'd like to switch to a normal pendant light.. is this doable, and if so, is it a job you can DIY with some research?
Beauty (or Ugliness) is in the eye of the beholder.

In my opinion, a well installed quality Fluorescent (or, nowadays "LED Panel") fitting would be much better for both lighting and aesthetics than a "normal pendant light" (whatever that may be), in any "utility room" - unless you wish to have something akin to a "Chandelier" in such a location.
Here is the thing. The basic principles of lighting wiring really aren't that complicated and really don't change that much whether the light is a traditional pendant or batten holder, a fluorescent strip or some fancy fitting.

* A switch connects/disconnects the live from the light. So the permanent live feed goes to the switch, then the switched live connection goes from the switch to the live terminal of the light and then the neutral terminal of the light connects back to the circuit neutral.
* Because we normally use multi-core cables rather than single wires for most wiring, there is normally a location where permanent live, switched live and neutral (and earths) all come together. That location may be either the light fitting, the junction box, or the switch.
* A blue or black wire is not necessarily a neutral.

Once you understand these principles you should be able to look at a lighting wiring diagram and *understand* it. And you should be able to see that the pictures you see for different types of light fitting are really the same thing electrically. I don't think doing electrics in general in a "painting by numbers" fashion is a good idea, understanding is what helps stop you screwing up.

What *DOES* change between different fittings is.

* Whether the fitting comes with a pre-fitted "loop" terminal for the permanent live or whether you have to supply your own terminal.
* How much wiring room there is.
* Where the cable entries are.

Traditional pendants are designed specifically to accommodate the normal three cables (two circuit cables and a switch drop). So the basics are accommodated pretty well but any extras can quickly start getting very cramped.

Fancy fittings are often very limited on wiring room. Metal cased class 2 fittings are particularly bad and often can only be correctly installed by fitting them with a single cable from a junction box.

Fluorescent strips usually had shedloads of wiring room and multiple cable entries. So the first course of action is to investigate the existing wiring to the fitting, does it all enter through the same hole or does it enter through multiple holes? is it wired with cables or with individual wires in conduit? Are there a normal and expected number of wires/cables connected in a normal and expected way or has someone used that nice big box for something else? Is the location where the cables enter appropriate for the new fitting?
plugwash has given you a lot of good advice
 
Beauty (or Ugliness) is in the eye of the beholder.

In my opinion, a well installed quality Fluorescent (or, nowadays "LED Panel") fitting would be much better for both lighting and aesthetics than a "normal pendant light" (whatever that may be), in any "utility room" - unless you wish to have something akin to a "Chandelier" in such a location.

plugwash has given you a lot of good advice

Nah man, fluorescent strips never look good in a room unless it's an office. On the other note, my entire house is Philips Hue, and they don't make a striplight, so it's the only light I can't control. It's a utility room, but it's got a really expensive kitchen installed in it that's all John Lewis of Hungerford units, with a big lovely Belfast Sink, etc.. Capping all this off is a ghastly big fluorescent light that makes it feel like an 80s Kwik Fit.

I want to make this place nice, because whoever lived here before had more money than sense, and there's stuff in here that I could never afford. The things they never got round to changing, however, are ruining the atmos!
 
I want to make this place nice, because whoever lived here before had more money than sense, and there's stuff in here that I could never afford. The things they never got round to changing, however, are ruining the atmos!

But you will not be able to see it, with a single pendent light :)

To replace a strip light adequately, requires at least two light sources, other wise you find yourself working in your shadow. Could I suggest a pair of dome type LED's, properly spaced on the ceiling, make a neat replacement for a tube and avoid casting hard shadows?
 

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