Nope can all be done without going near the boiler
Fitting Drayton Wiser kit and bypass valve
- Thread starter Derek M
- Start date
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Are you saying that the Drayton Wiser hub can control the boiler via RF, in the same way as the Worcester thermostat does? So the hub just needs mains electricity?
nope but you can use the existing wiring without touching the boiler
You seem to have missed where I said "It turns out the current thermostat in the hall is a RF unit, with no wiring to the boiler or mains". There is no existing wiring, either for the control signal to the boiler or for a mains supply for the hub, for me to use.
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Edited - re-read other posts
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If the existing controller is the Worcester RF job (with the receiver a module in the boiler) then you MAY be able to connect it yourself. Have a read of the instruction manual, as long as you don't have to remove the room seal cover to access the wiring and RF module you're fine.
I found this thread on the Tado forum which shows a photo of where the hub would need to be wired to. I don't think that section is accessible without removing the cover, but I'll check the manual.
Problems installing extension kit, smart thermostat / Worcester Bosch Greenstar 34cdi classic
Afternoon all, Looking for any advice or assistance available to get my system fully and properly operational.
community.tado.com
EDIT: Found the manual online and it seems to show on p.29 that the electrical control panel can be opened and accessed without having to remove the cover.
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@Derek M what do you think of as a "bypass valve"? You mentioned it being on radiators, so I'm wondering if you're confusing something else with what we know to be a bypass valve.
Manual valves on any rads will allow that rad to be a bypass.
Wiser roomstat is used to create a "room" where there are two rads with wiser TRVs, in the same space, that would otherwise fight each other.
Manual valves on any rads will allow that rad to be a bypass.
Wiser roomstat is used to create a "room" where there are two rads with wiser TRVs, in the same space, that would otherwise fight each other.
Wiser hub goes near boiler and power can be supplied to it from boiler in a 5 core cable which will also carry the switching.
I recently installed a wiser system that had 9 rads, UFH and 3 towel rails.
I got the customer to buy an extra wiser TRV that was not connected to any rad but was bound into the system as a device called "towel rails".
In the summer, this is used to bring the boiler on for CH but will only send heat to the towel rails as all the other wiser TRVs will be off demand and the rads they are connected to will remain closed.
As a starter kit for Wiser, you can just put wiser TRVs on the bedroom rads and have them not come on during the winter days, whilst it's on downstairs. This will save energy and money.
Unless you work from home and only want heating on in one room (office), it's not really necessary to have them on all rads. This costs a fair bit too.
I also use smart plugs to extend the comms for the wiser system and suggest customers plug fans into them for upstairs scheduled cooling during the summer months. Opposite of rads for heating in the winter.
I got the customer to buy an extra wiser TRV that was not connected to any rad but was bound into the system as a device called "towel rails".
In the summer, this is used to bring the boiler on for CH but will only send heat to the towel rails as all the other wiser TRVs will be off demand and the rads they are connected to will remain closed.
As a starter kit for Wiser, you can just put wiser TRVs on the bedroom rads and have them not come on during the winter days, whilst it's on downstairs. This will save energy and money.
Unless you work from home and only want heating on in one room (office), it's not really necessary to have them on all rads. This costs a fair bit too.
I also use smart plugs to extend the comms for the wiser system and suggest customers plug fans into them for upstairs scheduled cooling during the summer months. Opposite of rads for heating in the winter.
A competent gas engineer familiar with wiring should be able to do this for you.
It's a valve that bypasses one of the radiators, so the water can flow back to the boiler even when all of the TRVs are off. I don't need one though, as I'm not going to fit TRVs to every radiator.
Why would the two TRVs on the rads in the living room/dining room fight each other unless I create a "room" with the roomstat? If I set them both to 20c for example, then the boiler will come on if the temp at either TRV drops below 20c, or if I want the temperature a bit lower in the living room and set that one to 19c then it will only turn on the boiler if the temperature there drops below that, whilst the dining room one will turn on the boiler if the temperature there drops below 20c.
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