It's scrap.
Don't waste any time or money on it.
It's scrap.
Don't waste any time or money on it.
<My change of bolds>Standing such batteries on concrete.
I never do it. Not even modern plastic cases as they are surprisingly fragile and easily cracked/split. I damaged one 30+ years ago on concrete paying slab by dragging it an inch, certainly not more than 2" and I know of others who put the to similar use to me who have done the same thing and now treat them with similar respect, one will not even let others move them.
Indeed however many years back we used to stand car batteries on the concrete garage floor and after having a couple go flat during use we reckoned we had to charge them after use and before the next use a week or two later, the smaller sizes which lived on a wooden shelf didn't seem to have the same issue. From that observation it is possible there may be something in the theory, the cold floor could have something to do with it equally it could have been a quality or age issue<My change of bolds>
That's very different to the urban myth of LA batteries discharging due to being stood on concrete floors.
No these were never dragged about, that occasion was a simple push with a foot to clear a doorNot sure any heavy battery is designed to be dragged about. Most 100+Ah leisure ones have lifting handles.
Possibly but I'd hope not. I'll never know but one of the proprietry battery case repair adhesive/fillers didn't work.I'd suspect that such a small movement was the final straw that broke the already damaged casing.
I think there may be more which are moved around than you think, as said before I work with sound equipment and maybe 50% of the outdoor jobs I do, such as village fetes, school sports days etc are on battery and my experience of my and my competitors modus operandi are similar, equally temporary/emergency 2 way radio work and what about the hobbies such as model car racing and model boats. Cycle racing and marathons with the start finish arches and clocks etc. Temporary traffic lights etc.The list goes on and on and they all use car/leisure batteries and in my experience they regularly get moved around, shifted in and out of their enclosures etc.Most batteries aren't transported to multiple locations and on/off loaded, rigged, de-rigged and repeat.
e.g. My caravan one just sits in the 'cupboard' and might be removed from that during a service if the terminals can't be got at for measurements.
That's looking good but it is the first step in the process, those %readings are unreliable as they sort of give a % of current ability. IE if it's ability is 30Ah then 90% will be 27Ah but working the battery may hopefully regain more of it's original capacity.Just an update, and hopefully a bit of feedback that might help someone in the same situation.
Got the budget smart charger yesterday. On start up it went through a diagnosis, and it came up with 80% charged.
It was interesting watching the charge voltage/charge amperage changing.
After about 12 hours it stopped charging, and the battery now registers 100% full at 13.5V.
So at £23.99 a good investment.
Maybe I could have saved the previous 'dead' car battery had I had one of these chargers!
3 weeks at 0.1A is 50Ah which sounds acceptable to me for a part discharged battery.As said I have used the cheap Lidi smart charger for some years now, but the charge completed light does not mean fully charged, if left for some time I watch the built in voltmeter, and consider it fully charged when the voltage has remained static for two days or has reached 13.8 volts. (at the 0.1 amp charge rate) It takes time to recharge the battery, had one which took 3 weeks.
Due to snow, it was left longer than intended, took off charge today showing 14.2 volts, so around a week on charge. Before the smart charger would not have dreamed to leave on charge for so long.3 weeks at 0.1A is 50Ah which sounds acceptable to me for a part discharged battery.
Although I've given a vote, I'd probably consider it to be unworthy if it dropped from 13.5-14V down to 12.5V in an hour.I would charge it slowly for a day, then disconnect the charger and most importantly let the battery cool down for a few hours. Then measure the output voltage. There are charts on the internet that give the following capacity levels:
12.89v+ 100%
12.65v 80%
12.41v 60%
12.0v 30%
So if you never get more that 12.0v after cooling it's not in good shape. Sorry.
And that last line is becoming a problem for our emergency services.... But at least if a lead acid battery is damaged in a crash, it does not burst into flames.
Yes I got your comment thank you, as it happens I was explaining to Missus Sunray a few days ago when we saw 4 traffic oficer vehicles on hard shoulder and closing off first lane, 1/2 mile later a 23 reg Tesla with AA van and 2 fire appliances in attendance and what looked like a big canvas bag being unfolded.I was thinking about EV's and how they takes days to put out fire.
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