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Even the green MR plasterboard is not advisable in a wet area and especially without tanking.
I always thought the 9.5mm board was just for ceilings?
Worst Tiling Ever??
- Thread starter XrayDave
- Start date
Even the green MR plasterboard is not advisable in a wet area and especially without tanking.
I always thought the 9.5mm board was just for ceilings?
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Won't look too bad once all the holes and gaps are filled. The main problem is that there's not enough time. My bathroom guys had something like 3 weeks of 6 day weeks, and they barely managed it until the last day. I DIY'ed the stuff that were missed or vandalised. The silicone beading is a fairly typical pro job. If not happy, redo them. I have a heavier shower screen, and silicon plus 3 screws to the tiled plaster wall is fine.
There's no place for any kind of plasterboard on bathroom walls.
Note the full stop at the end of the sentence.
Note the full stop at the end of the sentence.
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UPDATE:
Nothing from Wickes Customer Relations (48hrs since "I'll get back to you shortly").
Made initial contact with my local BBC Radio station and three local newspapers to see if they would be interested in the story.
No real details divulged yet as I'm hoping (some may say vainly) that Wickes will respond with an action plan to get this sorted pronto - so currently kinda lining my ducks up ready!
XRD
Nothing from Wickes Customer Relations (48hrs since "I'll get back to you shortly").
Made initial contact with my local BBC Radio station and three local newspapers to see if they would be interested in the story.
No real details divulged yet as I'm hoping (some may say vainly) that Wickes will respond with an action plan to get this sorted pronto - so currently kinda lining my ducks up ready!
XRD
I've had a reply from Customer Relations and they seem to think that supporting the bath on timber baulks (see post #2 this thread and reproduced below) is somehow acceptable.
They are saying that the dry fit states that they use existing suitable pipework. They also say that they had agreed to a 'bridge structure' where the notching is in place. How is the existing pipework suitable if the legs of the bath are in the same position as the pipes and require some sort of 'bridge' over them?
As an aside, this is timber that they've found on-site - you can clearly see that it isn't new timber. The sheer audacity to use (without permission I hasten to add) timber that they've found in the customer's garden simply beggars belief!
Time to get the press involved I think.
I'm tired of this game of ping-pong.
XRD
They are saying that the dry fit states that they use existing suitable pipework. They also say that they had agreed to a 'bridge structure' where the notching is in place. How is the existing pipework suitable if the legs of the bath are in the same position as the pipes and require some sort of 'bridge' over them?
As an aside, this is timber that they've found on-site - you can clearly see that it isn't new timber. The sheer audacity to use (without permission I hasten to add) timber that they've found in the customer's garden simply beggars belief!
Time to get the press involved I think.
I'm tired of this game of ping-pong.
XRD
Having a notch in the timber for the pipe is fine, especially if the timber is the size pictured. A bridge is fine, but a lever/ledge shown in the first picture is not.
Okay - but what about the second picture where the leg isn't fully supported by the timber?
In other words, neither end of the bath is supported properly.
Is it also acceptable to use the customer's own materials without asking (it clearly isn't a new piece of timber).
Also, the long side, which buts up against an internal wall, doesn't have a batten to support the edge - just a load of silicone. Neither end has a timber batten either - so the bath is resting on the four legs of the frame - which in turn rest on the timber baulks (which aren't attached to the floor) and a line of silicone sealant along the long edge.
Such a professional job!
XRD
As said, reposition the pipes would take minutes and the bath could go on something solid (floor anyone?)
I don't find that solution acceptable by any standard.
I don't find that solution acceptable by any standard.
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Even if making a bridge over the pipe is acceptable (and I don't know if it isn't) , it has been so badly done, such a hideous botch, a show of utter incompetence.
The center of load is where the stud is. So long as the stud is supported, that is passable.
Reusing existing structural materials found in the bathroom is reasonable. If not used, those would have been disposed by the installer.
The folds in the bath sides provide rigidity. The long sides of the bath are fully supported by the frame the entire length - lay down on floor and look up. That's all you need. Adding batten to the plaster wall won't do much. When subject to weight, the fixing screws will rip holes in the plaster making the batten useless. Plaster wall can't hold up a curtain rail, never mind a loaded bath. Relying on that is a waste of time.
After loading down the bath, press down on the sides of the bath. If any movement is not enough to separate the silicone, then you don't really have a problem.
See here how the bath frame works:
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If it ain't leaking, don't fix it. Asking a ham-fisted installer to mess with the pipes is asking for trouble.
They're supposed to be professionals.
Moving 2 pipes takes minutes and surely it's not rocket science.
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