Fitting hive to ideal ESP1 30

[weehoose]

Hi, I'm looking for a bit of help wiring in hive to my ideal boiler please. Currently it has a danfoss wireless stat. The pictures show behind the stat receiver and the wiring into the boiler. I also have a danfoss programmer in the kitchen. I'm alright at basics electrics but not sure about the wiring.

 

[RandomGrinch]

If you have a single channel Hive, you can move the grey wire from terminal 2, to terminal 1 on the Danfoss backplate.
The Hive receiver should fit onto the same backplate.

However, as you also have a programmer, you can either bypass this and remove the programmer, or set it to permanently on - the Hive can then take care of the timings.
Alternatively, the Hive receiver can be mounted where the programmer currently is, and the old thermostat wiring can be decommissioned.

 

[weehoose]

Thanks for the reply. I'd rather do away with the programmer. The hive is the single channel one as there is only one zone in the house.

 

[RandomGrinch]

. I'd rather do away with the programmer.

Can you show us the wiring behind the programmer?
We can then hopefully advise on how it may be bypassed.

 

[weehoose]

This is the wiring behind the programmer.

 

[RandomGrinch]

This is the wiring behind the programmer.

Ok, it appears that there are some further connections made elsewhere.
Is the FCU for the boiler mounted next to the stat in your 2nd picture?
Could we see the wiring behind the FCU, if you can safely turn off the circuit?

 

[Deleted member 267285]

You could decommission the electrics to the single channel timer if feasible and just wire the Hive LNE and switch lives at the boiler

 

[weehoose]

Yeah the fused spur is right next to the stat receiver in the 2nd picture. I will post a picture tomorrow. My plan is to replace the kitchen so I just want rid of the programmer.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Yeah the fused spur is right next to the stat receiver in the 2nd picture. I will post a picture tomorrow. My plan is to replace the kitchen so I just want rid of the programmer.

If the spur is in the kitchen then you can do my suggestion no problem

 

[weehoose]

The spur is in the cupboard upstairs where the boiler is and the stat receiver

 

[RandomGrinch]

You could decommission the electrics to the single channel timer if feasible and just wire the Hive LNE and switch lives at the boiler

Yes, but it appears that all the flex wiring is in place and in a convenient location - it is only the ends of the pesky 3 core and earth cable to the programmer that needs to be found, and those connections would have to be found anyway, to properly decomission the progrmmer and pull out its wiring.

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Yes, but it appears that all the flex wiring is in place and in a convenient location - it is only the ends of the pesky 3 core and earth cable to the programmer that needs to be found, and those connections would have to be found anyway, to properly decomission the progrmmer and pull out its wiring.

Sorry mate: have to disagree on this one unless I’ve missed something?

The spur is in the cupboard upstairs where the boiler is and the stat receiver

 

[RandomGrinch]

Sorry mate: have to disagree on this one unless I’ve missed something?

As above the stat receiver and the FCU are upstairs, with the boiler, in the cupboard. The boiler and stat are connected up with 5 core flex.
The only anomaly is the programmer in the kitchen connected by 3 & E cable.
The OP wants the programmer removed and the connections to the 3 & E are likely to be made behind the FCU.
If the connections are made here, the 3 & E can be disconnected, and theoretically, only one wire will need to be moved to make the original stat backplate fully functional for the Hive receiver.

 

[weehoose]

Here's the picture of behind the fused spur.

 

[RandomGrinch]

Here's the picture of behind the fused spur.

Thanks for the photo, but I'm afraid the FCU would have to be pulled out a bit more for me to understand - and we would be interested in any of the connections made in connector blocks...

If you don't want to risk pulling the FCU out further, could you sketch out where the wires go into which cables?