Fixing to this high plasterboard wall

[Keitai]

The walls hollow so I guess plasterboard. Can't find studs with magnets or stud finder but kitchen units are going up on it. What fixings? Gonna be heavy. Do the hooks go onto these plates in picture?

For loft can I cram down the insulation and cut osb to GP on top? What's all covered

TACH]

 

[johnny2007]

Don't fix cabinets to plasterboard, it will fail.
You must find solid stuff (bricks behind dot & dab or studs.
Worse case you need to cut a bit of plasterboard, insert tape measure and see where studs are or go deep enough if dot & dab

 

[Burnerman]

The brackets on the third pic are the ones that hold the cupboards to the wall.
If the new units are going to sit on top of the existing ones then hollow wall fixings will be fine - so long as all is good on the ones below. Do find out how they are fastened though!
John

 

[robinbanks]

The walls hollow so I guess plasterboard

Remove a 100mm+ high strip of plasterboard and replace with ply at the height that will carry the fixings

. Do the hooks go onto these plates in picture?
View attachment 366882

Yes but that's the wrong way round. You'll screw that bracket to the wall through the preformed holes so it will end up that the side your thumb is touching is what is against the back board of the cabinet

For loft can I cram down the insulation and cut osb to GP on top?

Dunno what GP is, maybe "go"?

No, you can't compress insulation, because it diminishes its effectiveness. You ought to be striving for 270 mm of wool up there, not compressed. Compressing insulation too much can also have a detrimental effect on your ceiling plasterboards. Consider loft legs or thickening the joists to get a void of 270mm+

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

As a side note, if you're fitting additional units above the existing why don't you at least fit the same size units?

 

[robinbanks]

As a side note, if you're fitting additional units above the existing why don't you at least fit the same size units?

In a hundred years it'll be sought after authentic rusticity?

 

[foxhole]

It will all end in tears.

 

[RrogerD]

That's an odd look, with units on top of the other and, not having the doors aligned.
What are your bigger plans for the room?

 

[Keitai]

So the bottom unit has been there years before moving in. The top unit won't be resting on bottom one. I think this is a stud wall as I knocked both sides and seems hollow. If it was dob and dab, it wouldn't be hollow both sides, would it? Does dot and dab have batons the plasterboard is screwed to?

Is the best solution (as suggested above) to cut out 100mm high plasterboard with plasterboard saw and replace with 100mm high ply (9mm same as plasterboard) thick as long as unit then screw into joists (which I should see when plasterboard is removed?

Couldn't locate studs using stud finder or magnets.

Are the studs 16 or 22 inches apart?

 

[Keitai]

See above (dunno how you delete this post)
Last edited: A moment ago
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[Keitai]

See above (dunno how you delete this post)

 

[robinbanks]

I'd maybe think about doubling the ply up between joists so it's 18mm to screw into, while remaining flush

 

[johnny2007]

If there are no studs as you suspect, it's either dot and dub (on both sides of the wall) or one of them rubbish beehive cored plasterboard walls.
If that's the case, you're stuffed.

 

[blup]

See above (dunno how you delete this post)
Last edited: A moment ago
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Click edit, delete and leave a full stop or a short explanation, you cannot delete unless you are a mod and the poster has insulted someone for example.

On the subject of the post: You can get long brackets that th hook in the back of the cabinet fits over. It makes positioning the cabinet easier, and comes with plenty of fixing points so you might get away with multiple umbrella fixings in the PB. If there is the right gap between the back of the PB and the block wall behind that corefix fixings are good

 

[JohnD]

If there are studs, and you cannot find them by tapping or viewing for shadows, drill a hole in the plasterboard where it will not be seen once the cabs are up, and insert my Special Tool, pushing it sideways in the cavity. If the end hits a stud, mark the distance on the tool. Test to both left and right.

I can sell you this Special Tool for £50 plus p&p, or you can make one by straightening out a wire coat hanger.