Is this imperfection ok on the architrave?

Joined
18 Feb 2025
Messages
169
Reaction score
7
Country
United Kingdom
Cuts far from perfect as you can see but wondered if this is ok if I fill on with caulk/flexible wood filler?
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20250528_100621222.jpg
    PXL_20250528_100621222.jpg
    197.4 KB · Views: 100
It's up to you, you have to live with it, I daresay with some good filling it won't really be noticeable, not really acceptable to have paid a professional for it though.
 
I'd just fill it with caulk or wood filler. It's going to be painted after anyways.

I'm guessing you did it yourself?
 
If done by yourself, its fine. Wood filler will hide it.
 
Thanks guys. Yes I did it myself

Do I need flexible woodfiller? I've got normal ronseal one
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20250528-130047.png
    Screenshot_20250528-130047.png
    632.4 KB · Views: 27
Use paintable glue/filler, as the filler would crack as soon as the wood expands or contracts.

Filler would be OK on a screw hole or old wood that's already done all its moving about.
 
Cuts far from perfect as you can see but wondered if this is ok if I fill on with caulk/flexible wood filler?
It's acceptable and retrievable. The casing has probably shrunk a wee bit and/or the wall has had a skim. This means the archies will tend to angle in toward the frame instead of sitting flat. This in turn means the mitre is hard-on or fouling on the outer most point. It can be overcome if you have a decent mitre saw or decent caulking skills.

Be careful with caulk as it can shrink back, causing a bit of recess which will show when you paint. Apply some caulk - remove the excess with a damp kitchen sponge and apply a wee bit more the next day. Otherwise, use a filler.
 
It's acceptable and retrievable. The casing has probably shrunk a wee bit and/or the wall has had a skim. This means the archies will tend to angle in toward the frame instead of sitting flat. This in turn means the mitre is hard-on or fouling on the outer most point. It can be overcome if you have a decent mitre saw or decent caulking skills.

Be careful with caulk as it can shrink back, causing a bit of recess which will show when you paint. Apply some caulk - remove the excess with a damp kitchen sponge and apply a wee bit more the next day. Otherwise, use a filler.
Great tip. And I think you are spot on with the slight different levels and angling in. Have sanded it all down but still a lip where plaster begins.
 
Sorry, have one more question. I know normally, you would glue and use lost head nails to hold it in position. But I was wondering if I could skip the nails and clamp it in position instead?

The architrave I got is quite slim and has complex pattern over it. Worried nail would split or ruin the carved pattern.
 
Great tip. And I think you are spot on with the slight different levels and angling in.
Frustrating when even the truest of mitre cuts are bamboozled by out of square frames or don't sit nicely on the casing edges.

We have a method of fixing now that allows us to glue the mitres together, before fully pinning them back to the casing. It does mean that there can be a little frame stand off, but this can be corrected with caulk. Otherwise, we glue and fix knock-ons to the casing edges, prior to fitting the archies, especially when we re-skim the walls.
 
Sorry, have one more question. I know normally, you would glue and use lost head nails to hold it in position. But I was wondering if I could skip the nails and clamp it in position instead?

The architrave I got is quite slim and has complex pattern over it. Worried nail would split or ruin the carved pattern.
Always pin them with tiny round archie pins.
 

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top