Utility Room electrics for Appliances

[DJ_DIY]

Hi

We are having a new extension in a few months and I'm trying to figure out the best way of configuring the electrics for the utility side of the room. In my old house the electrician added Fused Spurs above the worktop for each appliance and a unswitched socket under the worktop. Worked OK but we don't want fused spurs above the worktop this time (just sockets). Also as mentioned in threads I've read, having the plug behind the appliance means the appliance has to be pulled out if the fuse in the plug blows.

In the image the red box is the CU which is on the garage wall. The CU has free MCB's for the new extension, lights, sockets, oven, and hob.

The black box is existing socket. My plan was to replace with 2 doubles in the floor to ceiling cupboard for the fridge and maybe the tumble but the washing machine cord won't reach all the way across. I could extend the cord so the plug is accessible in the cupboard and no fused spurs needed.

Or is there a better way? Any suggestions welcome.

Thanks

 

[ETAF]

not an electrician , BUT i know have separate single sockets (recommended here sometime ago) - for heavy power items - so like the Tumble dryer and washing machine - I have on a single plug each
and have the GRID switches above the worktop - so i can Isolate them (they are double pole - so Neutral and live switched)

but as you say if the fuse goes - i have to remove them

I just found that things like washing machines, dishwashers , tumble dries - can trip RCD and it becomes a pain when that RCD is in a block or for the whole CU and trips everything
by having the DP switch above the worktop - it should isolate it and avoid the tripping until fixed

just a view - which maybe wrong

 

[ericmark]

When rearranging my own utility room, I considered the combined load of washing machine and dryer so ran the two sockets off different circuits, then got a heat pump dryer so did not really need to.

I just found that things like washing machines, dishwashers , tumble dries - can trip RCD and it becomes a pain when that RCD is in a block or for the whole CU and trips everything
by having the DP switch above the worktop - it should isolate it and avoid the tripping until fixed

That is good advice, plugs should be in free air, or if can't arrange that in fan pushed air, inside my sink cupboard there is free air, but wife tends to stuff all other cupboards.

I had the RCBO feeding kitchen trip, and being able to unplug and test without pulling out appliances was an advantage, I could easy test insulation resistance at the plug, and loop impedance and ramp test RCBO at the socket, but we would hope this is rare, you can get these

for the work top so you can plug in where easy to access, but I have never bothered. It is your home, not really a place of work, and how it looks matters.

 

[JohnD]

Also as mentioned in threads I've read, having the plug behind the appliance means the appliance has to be pulled out if the fuse in the plug blows.

This is sometimes quoted as an objection.

However, IME the plug fuses on kitchen appliances blow, typically, zero times during their lifetime.

If one ever does, it is going to be because there is a fault in the appliance or damage to the cable, and the appliance will have to he pulled out for repair (or to take to the tip).

It is a non-issue.

 

[ericmark]

@JohnD makes a very good point.

 

[DJ_DIY]

Thanks for the replies.

So not being able to get to the plug to change the fuse in not an issue. Understood.

But if the plug can be simply plugged into a normal socket that is easily reached and can be isolated, isnt that just as good/safe/compliant (and cheaper) than having FCUs in the cupboards and spurs going under the counters? If the washing machine cord was longer i could have all plugs in the cupboard and not have to worry about FCU's.

Thinking further i want double sockets on counter anyway so normal approach would be something like:

 

[Murdochcat]

This is sometimes quoted as an objection.

However, IME the plug fuses on kitchen appliances blow, typically, zero times during their lifetime.

If one ever does, it is going to be because there is a fault in the appliance or damage to the cable, and the appliance will have to he pulled out for repair (or to take to the tip).

It is a non-issue.

But I’ve lost count of how many RCD faults have been traced to such equipment AND having the ability to unplug is really useful

 

[flameport]

Thinking further i want double sockets on counter anyway so normal approach would be something like:

If you want that arrangement, use 20A isolators instead of the FCUs.
If you were considering some king of ring circuit for this extension, think again.

The CU has free MCB's for the new extension, lights, sockets, oven, and hob.

Which should be RCBOs, not shoving multiple new circuits onto an existing RCD.

 

[DJ_DIY]

If you were considering some king of ring circuit for this extension, think again.

Why?

Which should be RCBOs, not shoving multiple new circuits onto an existing RCD.

If the CU is designed for 2 RCD's x 8 MCBs with SPD, why not?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Why?



why not?

Just more modern thinking.

However, as for rings, your diagram illustrates perfectly how to waste cable.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Could you have the FCUs (or just switches) near the freezer socket?

 

[flameport]

If the CU is designed for 2 RCD's x 8 MCBs

Adding yet more circuits to a single RCD makes a poor situation worse. One fault and half the house goes off and stays off until whatever failed is disconnected.
With numerous modern electronic items connected, you may find the RCD trips even when there is no fault.

 

[DJ_DIY]

Could you have the FCUs (or just switches) near the freezer socket?

well that was my initial thinking. Why even have FCU's when i can just have two double switched sockets for the appliances in the cupboard but as the WM cord wont be long enough I asked the question....

I want some sockets on the worktop anyway so might aswell go with the FCU setup.

 

[EFLImpudence]

well that was my initial thinking. Why even have FCU's when i can just have two double switched sockets for the appliances in the cupboard

Well yes, but it makes no difference whether FCU or switch.

but as the WM cord wont be long enough I asked the question....

I want some sockets on the worktop anyway so might aswell go with the FCU setup.

Ok. Try routing the cable more efficiently.

It also makes no difference whether the sockets are switched or not.

 

[JohnD]

But I’ve lost count of how many RCD faults have been traced to such equipment AND having the ability to unplug is really useful

Or to turn off a DP switch above the worktop.

An FCU is not necessary when switching a 13A socket that only accepts a fused plug.