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Utility Room electrics for Appliances

The vast majority of domestic premises are occupied for much more time than they are unoccupied, so I would personally very much favour coming down on the side of maximising 'protection' when the house was occupied (by NOT having a freezer on a 'dedicated' circuit). Not only is that, statistically, much more likely to avoid loss of freezer contents than would an approach which might be preferable when the premises are unoccupied, but the chances of anything 'tripping' say the circuit supplying a TV whilst the occupants were on holiday would presumably be extremely low?

As I have said before, I favour a dedicated circuit for fridge/freezers, but a none RCD/RCBO one, so the risk of loss of power is absolutely minimised, but maximise the chances of knowing there has been a power loss, by adding a temperature alarm, or perhaps even better, a power loss alarm.

There is no certainty that even if someone is home, that the TV, Internet router, or anything else will be used, or even missed, then there is the problem of the owner interpreting the loss - a negative warning. A positive warning is much more reliable, and needs not interpretation.
 
Are you two saying that the two things stated by JohnD and his signature are not the case?
I'm saying that the attitude that women, specifically, are subject to sudden whims but that doesn't matter to them because they don't have to do anything is desperately outdated.

As for his signature, given the way that he repeatedly lied about my views in a GD topic, and how he and his fellow throwbacks all ganged up to shut me up, I'll just refer you to what the BMA say.
 
Often as not, it is the plug, rather than the socket, which overheats and causes the problem, damaging both the plug and the socket it is plugged into.
Indeed, and it seems very common that the reason the plug overheats is because of poor connection between the fuse and it's 'holder' (the only other real reason seemingly being 'loose connections' at the terminations)
 
I agree, I think the corner zone is madness really, not many non electricians would know about that one.
I've had to do that in my lounge where I've taken cables to the TV over the fireplace (I know, I know, it's her idea!)... I've got co-ax and Cat 6 in the LHS corner and 2.5 in the RHS corner, up to the coving, then along behind the coving, then down behind the TV.
 
I've had to do that in my lounge where I've taken cables to the TV over the fireplace (I know, I know, it's her idea!)... I've got co-ax and Cat 6 in the LHS corner and 2.5 in the RHS corner, up to the coving, then along behind the coving, then down behind the TV.

I was lucky, most of the extra services I installed, I was able to install on bare brick, before the plaster went on. What I've installed since, I've been able to find none destructive routes for.
 
Maybe we should go back to how I assume it used to be done.

My house built 1930 ish the switch drops are inside metal oval conduit and it's really thick, it's been rewired before I moved in but the metal drops are still there it makes sense to me :-)

Easy to rewire and you cant knock a nail through it.
 
My house built 1930 ish the switch drops are inside metal oval conduit and it's really thick, it's been rewired before I moved in but the metal drops are still there it makes sense to me :)

Easy to rewire and you cant knock a nail through it.

A simple metal detector will usually find buried cables and pipe runs, providing there is no other metal in the wall.
 

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