Seal around the edge will hold it fine.
No need to decouple it.
Use CT1.
No need to decouple it.
Use CT1.
Poster #16,
"running a bead of silicone around the sink where it meets the work top" suggests to me where the rim of the sink is sealed from water from the bowl splashing up etc.
The other silicone that we can see in pic #2, I call the fixing silicone.
Which one do you mean?
My point is that previous sealants have not worked, and adding more (even CT1) on top of a failure could turn out expensive for the OP paying, say, up to £60/hr for a plumber to attend.
up to £60/hr for a plumber to attend
Poster #19'
I know you are a plumber from Potters Bar but the job is in Bradford, & without knowing the going rate in Bradford I would imagine its far less than in London.
The very name, "sealing" that we have both agreed on suggests just that - the CT1 seals. But as for making a "waterproof joint" it might work and it might not but you would chance reinforcing failure with the possibility of a further plumber's visit?
FWIW: As for cutting any bead of silicone or similar I heat a paint scraper Tool Store #96313, & it will release the most stubborn silicone without disturbing the tile.
Poster #21,
Your attempt to divert to the man making the argument, and not the argument itself means, of course, that you've lost the argument.
Pay cheap - pay twice seems to be what you are saying.
With respect:
Cali fornia - Haven't you got a maga meet to go to ? poster #25Poster 24,
With respect:
I know its a simple problem but you turned a simple problem into an argument which you lost & have continued to lose by your own excited words - what does "Cali" have to do with this?
But you have been arguing, & are now debating with your excited drama & losing diversions.
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