Which multitool blade for cutting through screws?

[stealthwolf]

I attached a wooden batten to a newel post so I could attach a stair gate. Stair gate no longer required. Tried to remove wood screws. The heads snapped off. I’ve removed the batten and the screws are left behind. I’ve tried mole grips without any success. Decided to cut the screws flush with the wood, drill them a bit and then wood filler.

I tried a multitool blade supposedly for metal but it didn’t make a mark. The screws are turbogold ones (carbon steel). Any recommendations for a suitable blade?

 

[^woody^]

Bang it in with a hammer and punch.

 

[ETAF]

you need a heavy metal blade - the normal metal blades are for very thin metal

I use saxtonblades , not sure what fitting you have , they have various fittings and types - if you want to be sure which type give them a call them - Cust service is very good

 

[robinbanks]

Hammer and chisel to split the batten around the screws leaving a peg sticking out. If newel isn't attached to a brick wall hold a brick against opposite side while you hit the pegs a few times with a hammer, then try winding out with mole grips. If that doesn't work out, angle grinder to cut the peg off near to the newel then swap to a steel flap wheel and polish flat with the newel and repaint.

Side note, do you know how to use a multitool in this scenario? If you just pressed the tool hard against the screw it may well have simply got wedged between the cutting teeth and vibrated to no good effect. Keep the pressure light and use the MT like a saw while it's running; rub back and forth. Personally I wouldn't use one, because it won't leave a good finish and could mark the wood excessively elsewhere

 

[^woody^]

Looking at the new photo, I can't see why grips can't grip them stubs

 

[stealthwolf]

you need a heavy metal blade - the normal metal blades are for very thin metal

I use saxtonblades , not sure what fitting you have

Makita DTM51Z - has starlock fitting.

try winding out with mole grips. If that doesn't work out, angle grinder to cut the peg off near to the newel then swap to a steel flap wheel and polish flat with the newel and repaint.

Thanks. I tried the mole grips but it just seemed to chew up the thread. I don’t have an angle grinder and figured I could cut the screws flush with a multitool.

 

[opps]

In the past I have paid about £18/20 in today's money for a Smart branded blade for cutting screws. It cut through the 4 screws... albeit very slowly. I lost a few teeth on the first screw, probably my fault for not moving the blade enough.

The blade will however make a mess of the timber.

You might be better off purchasing decent mole grips. Grab the screw head on rather than from the side.

You will not be able to drill through the remainder of the screw. They are extremely hard. Your drill bit will simply bounce off the shaft of the screw.

I suspect that the screws were inserted without a sufficiently sized pilot drill bit.

Best of luck.

 

[stealthwolf]

I suspect that the screws were inserted without a sufficiently sized pilot drill bit.

Annoyingly I thought I’d done a decent job with the pilot holes and affixing the batten. I think part of my issue was using an impact driver for driving in and out. A drill driver might not have caused as much issue. The screws are 80mm long and the first 25mm have snapped off.

I’ll try the mole grips again. If there’s a recommendation for a better brand, I’m all ears.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Are you using the mole grips perpendicular to the wall or parallel?

 

[Wayners]

Screw removal pliers.
You can different quality pliers but I like knipex twin grip

 

[foxhole]

Makita DTM51Z - has starlock fitting.

Thanks. I tried the mole grips but it just seemed to chew up the thread. I don’t have an angle grinder and figured I could cut the screws flush with a multitool.

Grips not adjusted tight enough .

 

[lostinthelight]

Depending how much is protruding, tightening a drill chuck on it and reversing sometimes works

 

[robinbanks]

Use small mole grips (smaller teeth) done up tight. If your grips have a toothed section near the hinge:

And it will close tight enough there, use that instead for more force. Have the grips flat against the post, not sticking off the end of the screw like a screwdriver would.

Like this:

NOT like this:

If by grips you mean water pump pliers, use a decent brand, grip near the hinge and squeeze hard. Consider getting some mole grips (vice grips, self locking pliers)

If you have a grinder and a steady hand, you can grind a small flat top and bottom of the screw by removing the threads only, which will help. If trying the drill chuck method, grind a triangle of flats

Go steady; these screws have already demonstrated they will snap once, and quite likely it will happen again

If none of it works (they're self drilling screws, but you mentioned pilot hole, so perhaps your newel is hardwood; travesty that it's painted but helpful in this case) just use a flap wheel in a grinder to grind the screw peg all the way flush then sand and paint the area

Go steady; these screws have already demonstrated they will snap once, and quite likely it will happen again That they're self drilling may have worked against you given that they will have chewed the inside of the hole up and generated a lot of heat as they went in, effectively creating a heat setting glue that grips the rifling on them and the hole sides. If you were desperate to get it out, finding a way to heat them without damaging the wood would probably help, but I do think you should commit to just grinding flush and making good if they won't budge

 

[lostinthelight]

, but I do think you should commit to just grinding flush and making good if they won't budge

Agreed, using disc edge at an angle grinding end of screw below the surface, will make a small grove in the wood but easily filled

 

[catlad]

Bosch expert metal max.