What multitool blade can cut through this?

[IHGMay]

I need to remove a skirting board without damaging the new plaster above it (should have done that beforehand really, I know), so I thought I would just cut it into small pieces and remove them one by one, but my Erbauer multitool wood blade can't cut deeper than the outer layer of this fiberboard/MDF/whatever it is. I chipped a few bits off with a chisel just to see what I'm dealing with.

Is there any blade that would work for this board?

 

[Koolpc]

Buy a new blade. Make sure the blade you are using is for wood.

 

[big-all]

whats holding the skirting on ??
if its nails then nothing to cut but fresh air
if its no nails or other adhesive then assuming its part off the skirting to be removed then cut the skirting in towards the wall to separate the offcut then decide how its fixed to the wall before deciding what you do
but in general paint stripper wide blade tapped in would be a start
your saw blade will only go something like 30-40mm into the gap before grounding

 

[IHGMay]

Buy a new blade. Make sure the blade you are using is for wood.

The one that I have cuts the real wood easily but doesn't go through this material. Just wondering if the new one is going to make a difference..?

whats holding the skirting on ??
if its nails then nothing to cut but fresh air
...
your saw blade will only go something like 30-40mm into the gap before grounding

I know it's nails, so I'm not trying to cut it off the wall, but rather trying to cut in a few smaller pieces to deal with them separately. The issue is that my blade cuts just a few mm deep and then keeps scratching it with no progress no matter where I make a cut.

 

[Koolpc]

You need a new blade. Thats my opinion.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

What type of blade is it? Metal cutting and multi material blades with small teeth don't cut quicky. The bigger the teeth the faster it will cut, but you also need to clear waste from the cut and the teeth. As @Koolpc says, try a new blade, prefwrably a wood blade

 

[IHGMay]

You need a new blade. Thats my opinion.

You were right, I managed to get by with the old one though, it just required more pressure and patience

What type of blade is it? Metal cutting and multi material blades with small teeth don't cut quicky. The bigger the teeth the faster it will cut, but you also need to clear waste from the cut and the teeth. As @Koolpc says, try a new blade, prefwrably a wood blade

It was a wood only blade but the teeth were worn out a bit. I managed to do it in the end with that blade. Time to get a new one now as I ran into a couple of nails along the way

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Nails kill blades! Basically, multitool blades are now so cheap that a pack of 20 costs £1 or less a pop

If you think that there may be any metal in what you are cutting (e.g. nails in skirting) then you need to use a bimetallic blade (i.e. with HSS teeth)

 

[Koolpc]

Nails kill blades! Basically, multitool blades are now so cheap that a pack of 20 costs £1 or less a pop

If you think that there may be any metal in what you are cutting (e.g. nails in skirting) then you need to use a bimetallic blade (i.e. with HSS teeth)

Which brand / blades do you buy?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

For general work just something cheapish like Saxton, because if I wrevk a blade it hasn't cost much (and there are lots of nails, pins, steel sprigs, etc in old woodwork). On the odd occasion I need a very neat, precise cut I have a few Fein, Festool and Bosch blades (I should maybe mention that I have a Makita 18 volt cordless plus a 110v Fein Vecturo, which can use longer blades). Bosch make some excellent curved edge blades.

The one downside of cheaper blades is that they are thinner, so less stiff.

 

[robinbanks]

You can get multi tool blades like the attached that will go deep enough to cut in a plunge

Bear in mind that multi tools should still be used like normal saws and rubbed back and forth over the material they are cutting. If the blade teeth get jammed into the material they stop cutting and simply vibrate the material instead

 

[robinbanks]

Another alternative is this attached; a TCT saw blade for a grinder. Much more dangerous (potentially life-endingly so) and messy but will plunge cut in awkward spots. You might have to chisel the face of the board off after you cut through it then go deeper with another cut to the back of the board. I find the blade I have for my grinder cuts about 25mm deep but your mileage may vary depending on the shape of your grinder

Do your research and make yourself fully aware of the injury/death risks in using one of these

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The Festool blades I get for some jobs can do a 78mm deep cut, but they use the Fein Supercut mounting and they cost about £75 for 5 and are designed to work with the Festool plunge base, so they will do a fairly deep plunge cut. I can occasionally get cheapo blades at that length, but being thinner they flex more, which makes for a less accurate cut.

There is little point looking for long blades like these for "standard" multitools - you need 350 watts or more to use them

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Another alternative is this attached; a TCT saw blade for a grinder. Much more dangerous and messy but will plunge cut in awkward spots.

Absolutely NOT. A multi tooth circular saw blade should NEVER be used in a grinder. The risk of kickback (because the tool has no base and no riving knife) combined with totally inadequate guarding (as a saw) makes it a stupidly dangerous thing to do. There has been at least one death in the UK of someone using this sort of set-up (search the Leicester Mercury), and saw blades for this purpose have been banned for sale here in the UK for several years

 

[robinbanks]

Good job I didn't mention the blades with chainsaw chains mounted on them then!

J&K's point is valid; these blades are incredibly dangerous and you need to be really comfortable with the risks you take using them. I'm not sure I'd use one in an AC grinder, but I've no qualms using one with extreme care in a battery grinder (with a half charged battery)

If you want a lower risk option you can use slim "for metal" stone cutting wheels, or slim "for stone" diamon cutting wheels to cut through wood with embedded nails. The wood burns more than cuts but it works