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Caliper mounting thread repair advice

These caliper sliders are completely stable when they are tightened up and usually have a locking compound applied anyway so they don't come undone.
Your problem comes from overtightening anyway so that makes some sense!
Interested to hear how you get on.
John
 
I'd get another hub if it was mine. There's not a huge amount of meat in the casting around the tapped holes.
 
Yeah but equally, if the spec says they're torqued to 21lbft, an adult could do that with just a screwdriver handle so it's clearly not carrying any considerable load
 
I'd get another hub if it was mine. There's not a huge amount of meat in the casting around the tapped holes.
As said, changing the hub is out of question because the car is not worth the cost of it.
Reading various forums this problem seems to be quite common, that's why there are those specific repair kits around.
If they weren't good enough they wouldn't be recommended.
 
Yeah but equally, if the spec says they're torqued to 21lbft, an adult could do that with just a screwdriver handle so it's clearly not carrying any considerable load
That's why I asked.
To me 21 ft/pound feels like a very low torque.
Is it the wrong torque?
 
As said, changing the hub is out of question because the car is not worth the cost of it.
Reading various forums this problem seems to be quite common, that's why there are those specific repair kits around.
If they weren't good enough they wouldn't be recommended.

Meh... you asked a question, I gave you an answer. You don't have to like it! People supply all sorts of stuff for cars that would turn the manufacturer's hair grey overnight, and good luck suing some aftermarket kit manufacturer if it goes pear-shaped!

If it's not worth the cost of a new upright, that ICE of yours must have depreciated a lot... ;)
 
Meh... you asked a question, I gave you an answer. You don't have to like it! People supply all sorts of stuff for cars that would turn the manufacturer's hair grey overnight, and good luck suing some aftermarket kit manufacturer if it goes pear-shaped!

If it's not worth the cost of a new upright, that ICE of yours must have depreciated a lot... ;)
I bought it for £500 and hasn't broken down yet.
Let's talk when your milk float reaches 20 years...
 
It's the M9 thread of the front caliper guide pin.

Ah... non-standard thread then :confused: . I'd need the pitch as well. If a "metric M9 coarse" was a standard fastener, I think the pitch would be between 1.25mm and 1.5mm. Assuming it's the lowest kind of "high tensile" you can get (Grade 8.8) and assembled dry, that 21 lbft figure isn't a mile off. I think it's fair to assume a low-ish grade, as it's only going into cast iron. I'm also assuming a finer pitch as a worst case for stripping.

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So somewhere between 19 and 38 lbft would seem reasonable. I wouldn't go much over 25 and use thread locking compound - ideally some high temperature stuff.
 
I bought it for £500 and hasn't broken down yet.
Let's talk when your milk float reaches 20 years...

Bloody hell those ICEs depreciate!:ROFLMAO:. I appreciate they never break down, yet here we are, on a forum dedicated to fixing cars...;)
 
Bloody hell those ICEs depreciate!:ROFLMAO:. I appreciate they never break down, yet here we are, on a forum dedicated to fixing cars...;)
EV will never suffer any of these maintenance problems because they'll never reach such age.
Hands up anyone foolish enough to buy a 10+ year old EV...
 
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