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Caliper mounting thread repair advice

EV will never suffer any of these maintenance problems because they'll never reach such age.
Hands up anyone foolish enough to buy a 10+ year old EV...

Probably me, but as yet, I have a the luxury of a new one. Enjoy maintaining your clapped-out ICE... :giggle:
 
Yes, "non standard" for anyone who's never maintained any car.
They're only standard to most vag, vauxhall, ford and another million brands...

Oh dear...:rolleyes: Tell us you don't understand the ISO system for screw thread classification without telling us...:ROFLMAO:
 
Probably me, but as yet, I have a the luxury of a new one. Enjoy maintaining your clapped-out ICE... :giggle:
I do and I will.
Full in the knowledge that I am looking after the planet while you burn it by changing milk float every 3 years.
Oh dear...:rolleyes: Tell us you don't understand the ISO system for screw thread classification without telling us...:ROFLMAO:
Maybe you need to understand my previous posts where I made it quite clear that lots of calipers used the same guide pins which have incidentally "non standard" M9 threads.
That proves only one thing: you haven't got a clue about cars and most likely never even unbolted a wheel in your life.
 
I never knew these pins were threaded 9mm.....every day is a school day!
Anyhoo, if it was mine I'd go ahead with the insert repair, using Loctite as well. If the insert should be proud of the hub forging I'd grind it flat and then press on with the reassembly.
Most scrapper items have been crap in my opinion and a new hub would need a new bearing for sure.
Good luck with this one, I'll certainly bear these kits in mind if a similar problem comes my way!
Regards
John
 
I do and I will.

...but obviously not enough to actually replace the upright...:ROFLMAO:

Full in the knowledge that I am looking after the planet while you burn it by changing milk float every 3 years.

Are you being willfully thick here or what?! :ROFLMAO: You're falling into the same trap as Munroast and the others who seem to assume that once a car's first owner sells it on, it somehow magically disappears! What actually happens, of course, is that it passes to another owner (that's how you got your old shed, remember)? :rolleyes:

Maybe you need to understand my previous posts where I made it quite clear that lots of calipers used the same guide pins which have incidentally "non standard" M9 threads.

That proves only one thing: you haven't got a clue about cars and most likely never even unbolted a wheel in your life.

What it proves, is that you really don't understand the ISO screw thread classification system do you?! I thought the hint I gave you in my last reply might have caused you to stop and think about it - maybe even have a quick "Google" in an attempt to educate yourself, but it seems I misjudged you. Apologies. Once again, I expected too much... :rolleyes:

Not that I imagine any of this will stick, but there's an international standard for metric threaded fasteners. Anything that doesn't conform to that standard is er... "non-standard" (the clue's in the name...). It doesn't matter how commonly they are used in any particular application, that has absolutely nothing to do with it. My own car has a number of M7 bolts and cap heads in its engine. They made lots of those engines, but that doesn't mean they're a standard bolt! (Oh... hang on, how could I possibly know that?! I've never even unbolted a wheel)!:ROFLMAO:
 
I never knew these pins were threaded 9mm.....every day is a school day!
Anyhoo, if it was mine I'd go ahead with the insert repair, using Loctite as well. If the insert should be proud of the hub forging I'd grind it flat and then press on with the reassembly.
Most scrapper items have been crap in my opinion and a new hub would need a new bearing for sure.
Good luck with this one, I'll certainly bear these kits in mind if a similar problem comes my way!
Regards
John
Yes, I'm going for it.
Should be delivered tomorrow.
Locktite before pressing it in?
If it's as tight as their demo it's basically useless but I'll go for it.
Let you know how it goes tomorrow.
Thanks
 
...but obviously not enough to actually replace the upright...:ROFLMAO:



Are you being willfully thick here or what?! :ROFLMAO: You're falling into the same trap as Munroast and the others who seem to assume that once a car's first owner sells it on, it somehow magically disappears! What actually happens, of course, is that it passes to another owner (that's how you got your old shed, remember)? :rolleyes:



What it proves, is that you really don't understand the ISO screw thread classification system do you?! I thought the hint I gave you in my last reply might have caused you to stop and think about it - maybe even have a quick "Google" in an attempt to educate yourself, but it seems I misjudged you. Apologies. Once again, I expected too much... :rolleyes:

Not that I imagine any of this will stick, but there's an international standard for metric threaded fasteners. Anything that doesn't conform to that standard is er... "non-standard" (the clue's in the name...). It doesn't matter how commonly they are used in any particular application, that has absolutely nothing to do with it. My own car has a number of M7 bolts and cap heads in its engine. They made lots of those engines, but that doesn't mean they're a standard bolt! (Oh... hang on, how could I possibly know that?! I've never even unbolted a wheel)!:ROFLMAO:
Another professional bullshytter who thinks the whole world is wrong and he's right.

If it shuts you down, I agree with any bullshyt you come up with.
 
I have used a similar kit (Sealey) for my Astra caliper bolt. The 3 metal plates are drill guides. It all went really well.
Did you use locktite before pressing the insert in?
I'm not gonna hammer it in as shown on a few YouTube videos but I'm gonna use a g clamp or a bolt to gently press it in.
How did you do yours?
 
Oh, disaster! How will you get through the rest of your day? :giggle:

Oh, I'll manage... It won't be long before Johnny comes out with some more BS to entertain us. In the meantime, I might see if I can find a few YouTube videos to see if I can learn how to take a wheel off... ;)
 
Although these hubs are a drop forging and are therefore malleable, I'd avoid bashing the thing in but would rather either press the new insert in or maybe use a bolt and spacer to do it that way.
Loctite before the insert is inserted!
John :)
 
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