Draughty new composite door

[Pinnacle69]

I've had this before the draft is probably coming up through the drainage slots and behind the front seal the only place it can exit is the latch plate area I've solved it by gluing a piece of brush seal horizontally near the bottom of the frame to stop the draught rising on both sides hope this helps

 

[ZS123]

Crank39 did mention earlier in this thread that the brush pile isn't the only gasket , there is a gasket on the outer rebate of the door frame, if the door is adjusted for compression correctly , and the door handle is pulled up every time to engage the locks, thus fully compressing the door on the rubber/foam seals then No air or water should be getting passed that door frame. Composite Doors are NOT ' inherently ' draughty
People are focusing too much on the ' fir ' gasket , this is not the issue ,it sounds more like a ' compression ' issue or potentially a warped slab. What colour is the door
The compression should be able to be adjusted on the Hinges AND on the lock keeps . But key is ALWAYS pull the handle up to engage the lock for full compression. Too many Installers fail to tell customers this and its a key element of a composite ( and Upvc door)

Trouble is on ours if it's adjusted to compress seal you can't open it when the sun has been on it.

 

[ronniecabers]

Are they adjusting for compression or just adjusting to ' line it up' ? Thermal expansion shouldn't effect compression normally, normally its how the sash is sitting to close to the lock keeps is affected by thermal expansion as the door sash expands making the door rub on the keeps

 

[ZS123]

Are they adjusting for compression or just adjusting to ' line it up' ? Thermal expansion shouldn't effect compression normally, normally its how the sash is sitting to close to the lock keeps is affected by thermal expansion as the door sash expands making the door rub on the keeps

They are adjusting for compression, when it expands it makes the handle very hard to use, if you shoulder barge it and then quickly do the handle it opens, without the lock touching the keeps

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

They are adjusting for compression, when it expands it makes the handle very hard to use, if you shoulder barge it and then quickly do the handle it opens, without the lock touching the keeps

The main seal, is that rubber seal, outside, which , needs to lightly grip a sheet of paper, if the paper is closed between the door, and the seal, anywhere around the edge of the door. When they fitted my side door, it ended up with a gap between the door and frame seal, due to one of the two bowing slightly. I called them back, to address it, because it allowed a draft through. As said, the only leakage through that door now, is via the 'through keyhole'. I was thinking to eventually try to seal that, or improve it, using a thin rubber membrane, with a slot for the key.

 

[foreverchanges]

I've had this before the draft is probably coming up through the drainage slots and behind the front seal the only place it can exit is the latch plate area I've solved it by gluing a piece of brush seal horizontally near the bottom of the frame to stop the draught rising on both sides hope this helps

It's strange the fitter didn't mention this. Can you attach a photo to show what you've done? Would it be the same explanation for me getting draughts around the hinges too (though they aren't as bad as around the latch plate)?

 

[foreverchanges]

This seems incredibly unlikely? All composite doors are draughty? Why would a composite door latch be so significantly different to a PVC door latch that one leaks and the other doesn't?

My upvc back door has draught excluder all the way round with no gaps where the latch/ hinges are, that's how it's designed and it cost a lot less than my composite door

 

[foreverchanges]

Crank39 did mention earlier in this thread that the brush pile isn't the only gasket , there is a gasket on the outer rebate of the door frame, if the door is adjusted for compression correctly , and the door handle is pulled up every time to engage the locks, thus fully compressing the door on the rubber/foam seals then No air or water should be getting passed that door frame. Composite Doors are NOT ' inherently ' draughty
People are focusing too much on the ' fir ' gasket , this is not the issue ,it sounds more like a ' compression ' issue or potentially a warped slab. What colour is the door
The compression should be able to be adjusted on the Hinges AND on the lock keeps . But key is ALWAYS pull the handle up to engage the lock for full compression. Too many Installers fail to tell customers this and its a key element of a composite ( and Upvc door)

I do always pull the handle up when locking the door, so do you think I should get the fitter back and ask him to adjust the compression - though maybe he feels he can't do anymore adjustment?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I do always pull the handle up when locking the door, so do you think I should get the fitter back and ask him to adjust the compression - though maybe he feels he can't do anymore adjustment?

I could be wrong on this, but the frame itself just doesn't look right - the gaps don't appear straight/even, but photos can be deceptive. You shouldn't be accepting any drafts through the door, at all, apart from keyholes, and letter slots.

My door does change shape, when the sun hits it, I hear it move, but it does move enough that it sticks.

I know costs have risen, since I had my doors, but around ten years ago they cost me well under £1000, and were top quality at the time.

 

[fourtytwo]

I recently replaced an old UPVC front door with a composite, what a disaster, I fully concur with the OP's draft problems, these things are unfit for purpose. The old UPVC door had double rebates and multi-point locking with adjustable roller cams. This god awful composite has only one rebate and no roller cams, instead it relies upon claws to pull the door to the frame with a sliding mechanism that grinds the side of the claw away when locking. If it is not adjusted tight the drafts and noise are horrendous and there is a lot of heat loss due to drafts.

I would have thought today's building standards would prevent the sale and installation of such utter crap.

 

[ZS123]

The main seal, is that rubber seal, outside, which , needs to lightly grip a sheet of paper, if the paper is closed between the door, and the seal, anywhere around the edge of the door. When they fitted my side door, it ended up with a gap between the door and frame seal, due to one of the two bowing slightly. I called them back, to address it, because it allowed a draft through. As said, the only leakage through that door now, is via the 'through keyhole'. I was thinking to eventually try to seal that, or improve it, using a thin rubber membrane, with a slot for the key.

Not to hijack the thread but thank you, tested with paper and 3/4 of the vertical locking side of the door doesn't grab the paper, door is like a banana. Only 2 years old and always fully locked.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

Not to hijack the thread but thank you, tested with paper and 3/4 of the vertical locking side of the door doesn't grab the paper, door is like a banana. Only 2 years old and always fully locked.

In that case, you have solid grounds for complaint, and rectification.

I read somewhere, that half and half, glass doors, can have a problem with vertical warping, but they could have adjusted the frame, to take account of it. While ever, that seal leaks, you will suffer drafts.

 

[Pinnacle69]

It's strange the fitter didn't mention this. Can you attach a photo to show what you've done? Would it be the same explanation for me getting draughts around the hinges too (though they aren't as bad as around the latch plate)?

Yes to a certain degree as the hinges compress the brush pile try putting a bit of foam temporarily inside at the bottom when its windy to test my theory